makaofox

I plan to start my na to t build in november. I' ve been accruing parts for a year or 2 and im ready. Using a 94 supra na motor goal is 400whp using a Holset he351cw, 350z 6sp, keeping the dizzy but I would want to change that out to mojo lq9 coils later on. Here are some links ive been book marking, may behelpful may not be not sure. But the na regrind cams are great (TCC perf), I wanted to get cams but for now I wont. Ill upgrade cams down the road also. Not sure if youre part of supra forums but they have good info. Club na-t was the best but it sadly closed a few years ago Also not sure if you've seen the quick spool valve but its definitely a must Stu's garage is helpful has some manuals that are nice to have. http://www.mojoperf.com/?q=node/3 http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?668514-MOJO-PERFORMANCE-LQ9-ls2-coil-Install-review http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?671843-Ricestang-s-PTE-6466-Quick-Spool-CA-Sleeper-Build http://boostwerx.com/accessories.html http://ttcperformanceproducts.com/ttcperformance1.html http://my.is/forums/f221/diy-kinda-intake-gte-style-manifold-w-pictures-cost-analysis-363346/ http://www.rossmachineracing.com/halfround.html http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?497472-Supra-Manuals-Diagrams-and-ECU-Pinouts http://97supraturbo.com/index.html http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?63998-2jzge-T-swap-notes-and-pricelists Hope some of it helps! Na-t in my opinion is cheaper, easier and "better" than the gte. The only advantage of the gte is the coil packs.

Ahh gotchya. In hindsight I should have gone na then turbo it later. Still collecting turbo parts as well, just too lazy to stop driving the stock L28. But thats cool schools important. Books are bs get ebooks or no books. I brought the books and maybe used 10% of all the books I purchased my whole time in school its a rip off.

Man sad news. I purchased my CV axles from him not long ago. Awesome product, spoke with him also, he was very knowledgeable and straight forward. Hopefully someone can continue his legacy.

Greyson any updates?

Being from the east coast dont get that car. The price is too much for what it needs. In NJ you can get fully restored ready to drive 280z's for 10-15k. There was a restored 240z for 24k but thats over priced. Search more, the 240z holds high prices. The 280z is more suited for daily or cruising and is cheaper than the 240z. Keep looking you can get a better car for just a little bit more, unless you want to restore it. Also take a look on the west coast they have solid cars like in Cali, AZ, or even TX.

Cruise with some gtr's on sunday.

Wow redlineevo7. I loved the entire car UP until the tail lights...then I saw the end product and honestly you or the team is very talented. I personally love the 280z euro lights but this is a nice well done car. Everything is well done and even though the tail lights are off the wall, I like it. Keep it up!!

Hmm noted. On another note my z used to be tracked in the 70s-80s and still uses a few heims for the sway and strut bar and after 40 years still in great condition. Granted its not on the LCA but still impressive. I have no need for an adjustable set up yet but all good information thanks jon!

My friend with his 2jz 240z made these. He believes hiem joints are a weakness (daily drives 100mi in his 240z). His 2jz z32 blows through them often, could be because of the weight? But He made these a few days ago, I helped him and they really are pretty sweet. The bushings are great and the design I like it, all home depot stuff not even $50 worth.

Those are great numbers! The 1j is a 2.5 so the 2j's extra 0.5 liter will help it spool a smidge quicker. Ive searched online and 2 locals ran the same turbo and one bragged about 1 bar by 2500rpm. Only mods on his 2j were cams 272, 750cc injectors, exhaust, intake and tune it was a sc300 na-t as well so the higher compression could help. Now I dont know how true 2500 rpm is but even at your 3500 at 1 bar is pretty good. I would be more than happy with 400rwhp. My motor should be done soon, im looking up now for my fuel set up. An fittings and hoses are NOT cheap .

Whens the next deal? Looking to get the speed hut kit with the gps speedo and the other gauges.

Guys, guys stop fighting T_T the PO is going to pick an engine and leave this thread unfinished anyway!

So heres an update. My 2jzge should be coming back from the machine should early August hopefully in the first week. So far out of the 2 years ive been collecting alot of parts. So far: -2006 350z transmission less than 100k miles seems to shift smooth. -Austin Hokes bracket for z33 trans amazing quality, would buy anything from this guy! -Collins adapters brought the 700hp kit even though im only aiming for 400whp. Says I dont have to mill down the bellhousing! Thats a plus. -Betamotorsports no longer makes his crossmember due to unfortunate events. But I managed to find a new one! Craigslist win. -Wiring specialties made me basically a custom 2jzge to t wiring harness. Took awhile but the quality is amazing! The price is worth plug and play feature. -front facing intake manifold another craigslist win -Tial wastegate and BOV brought from a member on here. -Shortened the shifter linkage for the z33 trans it was pretty easy. -Wolf creek racing axles awesome stuff, expensive but so far on the L28 its been running well. Hoping the 2j power wont snap them. -R200 Techno toy tuning mustache bar, great stuff. -Ron Tyler rear diff mount great quality. -Isuzu NPR diesel dump truck intercool. Has the perfect bend and curve. -AEM ecu -Bosch 044 fuel pumps -Still need to order my fuel lines and fittings thats $500-$600 :/ going -8an Feed and -6an return. -Holset HE351CW turbo from a dodge. Should spool dumb fast and low. Looking for a lagless set up and I think this is it. I know ill need the exhaust set up going 3in. Drive shaft Wiring is going to be a pain even with the harness removing the old stuff and being careful as my car still runs just fine. Dont know what else ill need as of yet. And btw that was a 76 datsun 620 but sold it sadly. One day ill get another!

R154s arent cheap anymore a decent one is minimum $800 around the east coast, some for $2k but with built internals and you still need a 1jz bell housing that goes for around $300 on some sites.

The only issue to the na to t is the early models use the distributor which limits the size of turbo selection. Other than that its a fairly cheap swap, the 2jzgte starts around 2k minimum. A Na motor can be had for $500 with everything minus trans which gives you an extra 1500 to add to the motor build. Both get you to the same goal but the na saves you some money but nothing crazy. The hardest part of all the swaps is wiring even for the l28et wiring is always the toughest part. Everything else is easy per say.

You forgot the 1jz. Personally since Im doing the 2jz swap im biased. But the L28et is easy but the 2jz basically stock will be the most reliable. 2jz with cams, exhaust, intake and proper turbo will surpass 300 like nothing. Im doing an na to t so all you need is arp head studs and gte head gasket, tap the block for oil return then done. The higher na like compression will be great off boost and on boost itll haul ass. The na block can be had cheap but the trans you can choose r154, 350z cd009, t56, or stick with auto trans. The 2j you can get parts over the counter still so wont be a big deal to get a water pump or belts.

Looking good man. Ordered my coilovers from Powertrix waiting for them to still be built. What size did you go with? I have the same wheels I went with 17x9.5 -20 all around.

Put it this way shipping is cheaper with the 2jz than the RB. The RB is becoming more available now and they have sites dedicated to the RB series but the 2jz did come to the U.S. so you can still get parts over the counter. Do some research for basic parts you think youll need in the future and see. Search water pumps, alternators, timing belts, clutch parts, etc.

John is right set aside between 10-12k. First start off with a good set of brakes and suspension. The swap (im still in the process of collecting parts) itself is straight forward and simple. I used the 350z 6sp which was very expensive initially but is cheap if ever in need of replacement. Diff and axles are pricey but get the rear end dialed in will save you money in the end. 2j is very powerful expect to brake lots of components especially if you buy the cheap crap. Wiring specialties has a nice plug and play system for cheap. I went with an na to turbo motor from a 94 non-turbo supra. I find it easier to source a good na motor for cheap and since youre going to build them anyway it saves some money but not much. My friend did the same swap with most of the parts im using and its a very fast and fun car. Hes upping the boost and aiming for 600hp with just a tune, proper sized turbo, cams, and exhaust. They are almost too easy to get more than 500hp. Im trying to stay in the 350-400hp range. Also dont forget about bracing the car, all the torque will twist the chassis.

Sweet build! So whats the process on the s13 rear and s14 front? How do you like the geometry? Seems like a ton of work but looks worth it with coilovers and upgraded brakes, easier to obtain parts.

Dope, twin plate should be awesome. Im trying to stay modest so I chose the 500hp option.

No one cares about the 350 so parts are cheap. Its a cheap car to begin with. Mavericks and collins are legit the same thing. Maves just gives you the option of getting your own 350z clutch which is a hassle because you will spend more than if you went with collins kit. I looked at both and theyre both the same. Now collins just updated his so you dont have to shave the bell housing. That right there is the reason I ordered his. He uses his "own" clutch and flywheel but its just from another car model that he does not want to tell people about which is understandable. Nothing a clutch shop cant fix for you anyway. The s130 might be longer so you night not even have to cut it which would be awesome. I know between 350 and s30 it was like a 4-5in difference and when you cut it it lowers it to just 1ish inch which is still comfortable compared to stock.

So I went with collins and so did my friend with a 500+ 2jz in his s30. His version of collins he milled 3/8 off his bellhousing, the version I got was newer and supposedly dont have to mill it down. You have to cut the shifter linkage https://sites.google.com/a/vq240z.com/www/shifterrelocation I brought his mount and its super light and easy to install. Then brought a nismo short shifter. Thats all the easy stuff. Collins also offers a high HP clutch kit. Overall the kit is VERY expensive 2k BUT the trans is SO easy to find and cheap its not funny. I picked up my CD009 for $600 with 100k miles. a used r154 is at minimum 800$ IF you find one. They shift like trucks, the nissan trans is smooth like butter! Handles power very well and being newer you can buy a brand new tranny from nissan or z1motorsports for 1700 plus shipping! My friend has daily driven his 2jz with cd009 240z for over a year and has had 0 issues with tranny. I havent even started my swap, ive been collect parts but I like the quality of the kit collins produces and austin hoke.

Maaaaaaaan you coulda made that DP and single work lol. Singles for the win. The 2j cx racing mounts look the same. Im probably going to modify them to make them better. The progress is looking good though. Whats your hp goals?

Nice build! the color and wheels look great and the cf flares set it off. Let us know how you like cx racing mounts. I have mine im also doing an 2jz na to t but havent gotten my motor back from machining. I brought bulk of what i need and im probably gonna have a hard time with the nick nacks. What turbo you going with? if your not staying stock twins that is. Im hoping my motor comes back around sept so I have a winter project.