OldAndyAndTheSea

Once I have something I'm proud of selling, then I will definitely let you know. Thanks! Here's my Christmas Carbon Update. Happy holidays everyone! Hopefully everyone's Z gets what they want this year. Cheers.

It's a Festivus miracle! Mocked together... they fit! Took me the better part of four hours to trim/shape the openings on these bad boys. That was some work. Looking to improve upon that. Here they are tape mocked together, off the car. More in action. Mmmm carbon... Oh, And I have epoxy coated both foam gauge plugs. I also molded the base of each pod to match the shape of each mounting location. Now I get to shape these into something worth looking at, and work on the next stages. Awesome! Happy Holidays all!

Agreed. Thanks all. Happy Holidays!

You're talking about the hood vents, correct? I, personally, wouldn't want to make those. You'll spend more time trimming than you would doing anything else. Clamshell beginning stages. Freshly popped. Began roughly trimming. Haven't cut any of the important openings yet. Luckily they still appear to want to fit together. That's a relief. More to come..Lots going on.

Thank you. This comment makes me feel better, as my first and foremost priority is making sure people are happy with whatever product they potentially buy. I'm glad it comes off that I care, because I do. If I can, I will try to please everyone, but, as you said, that has its limits. Yeah, I'm about to head out and do some thinking on the subject myself. I'll report any findings. Regardless, I'm going to do my damnedest to make something that you, specifically, are happy with, since you have been very helpful to the project. A pillar pieces are pretty common, and the first gen Mazda Miata/Mx-5 pod is pretty frequently used/modified on the s30s. Some people don't like A pillar pods either, that's the other reason. The clamshell pieces, and an optional gauge provision have been some of the things on a lot of guy's bucket lists. As far as I know, it has not been done before. I don't know if I myself will opt for one, but I know lots of others want to stick gauges behind the steering wheel. Thanks for the feedback. Making these parts, I feel, is going to become a vicious cycle....I've already begun to feel it....I know I want a dash at some point too....so as these products become more finalized, I'll perhaps start looking into that. Door panels too. Carbon flocked two tone..........droool. I cannot express how much the feedback helps the research and development of the parts. Keep the suggestions coming, it helps justify the decisions I make. Thank you all.

Random weekly update...(Ignore this if you are reading the 'Revised Center Console' Thread). Designing a gauge pod to fit atop the new clamshells I am making. Shaping the plug by hand. Using EPS or expanded polystyrene foam. Ignore that it comes in contact with my stupid dash cap. I don't anticipate that being there much longer. Steering wheel clearance And I pulled the clamshell molds today. Appears I'll be making some of those Monday. Also made another console. This time spread tow carbon instead of twill to test a new mold. No compartments. Works.

Booo... Just popped my LC-1 gauge out. Depth: 14.5mm The Autometer from the inside of the bezel to the end of the studs is roughly 60mm. In its current state the studs are about 10mm too long. It's real tight. This pod may just have to be a low profile one. When it's light tomorrow I'll spend some time in the 260 and try to see what an appropriate course of action will be. Here's an idea as to the variety of depth within the world of 2 1/16" gauges.

Good point. After quickly viewing the available options it seems that MAY be a possibility. I kinda like this.. http://www.fastwrx.com/collections/gauge-mounts/products/auto-meter-carbon-fiber-52mm-gauge-cup We'd still be screwed with our Autometer gauges though, due to those unbelievably long threaded pieces. Unless we wanted to cut those off, and completely forgo the black mounting piece....But I don't really want to ask people to buy something then ask them to mangle a new aftermarket gauge before being able to use the item. haha. Interference fit maybe? I dunno... That is some pretty complex geometry though, even if I were to modify it, it would be more difficult to make as a cosmetic piece, due to either 2 halves needing to be joined, or multiple pieces being joined together.. It, for all intents and purposes, cannot be made in one mold like the version you see me making now. Adds to complexity... and unfortunately adds to cost. Thanks, I really don't like to do things twice....however, that seems to be the case more times than I care to admit... or count. That's true, good call! I also have a LC-1 gauge that I can use. Now that you mention it, I do remember it having a significantly lower depth. The question is: are most air fuel ratio gauges similarly sized, depth wise? If I can help it, I'd like to not have to suggest what parts people have to run on their car. Maybe on the 260/280 you simply cannot run an Autometer Mechanical Boost gauge (I cannot say for the electric version) in the gauge pod provided. Or any gauge exceeding whatever that maximum available depth is. Kinda sucks though. Maybe just another reason to buy a 240? Ha! I kid. I kid. While I am not defeated, not in the slightest, I am open to adapt and change as need be. As long as everyone, who care to be, involved are okay with whatever that path may be.

This may seem like an extremely simple question, and apologies if you have already thought of this. But....Are you sure the issue is timing related? Rust in the gas tank and fuel pump cavitation will absolutely cause those sort of problems. Seems that your timing was off originally, which you have since remedied, that's good. But if you're experiencing the same symptoms, that leads me to believe it is not ignition related, but fuel delivery instead. You also noted the car has sat for various extended periods of time. Another potential clue. This happened to me once. I had sediment in the tank. Car would idle wonderfully, but under load it would backfire, pop, and gasp until I stopped moving. The particulate would then settle enough to idle normally again..until I tried moving. This was before I installed a pre fuel pump filter. Drained the tank. Inline filter. Problem went way. Rust/detritus in the tank, leading to clogged filters, or line blockage can definitely lead to what you are encountering. Again, apologies if you have already confirmed fuel pressure.

Thanks for the encouragement everyone, it certainly helps. Ran into my first bit of trouble today.... ...So I've got the shape roughly where it needs to be in regards to the gauge pod. Here's a rough visual representation. My car has a stupid half dash cap that just so happens to interfere with my pictures. But hopefully you can see that the gauge pod JUST fits in that area. Ignore that the pod appears to be touching the dash. It's hitting my dash cap. Also needed to make sure that the OEM steering wheel didn't interfere. Pretty close tolerances. Depth of the pod was good. It's about as small as I could make it, with still having Autometer stuff fit. At this point I was feeling good... Until I brought the setup back to the 260z... The 260/280 dash angles out a bit more than the 240's.......Damn..... (prepare for some of the worst images ever. Thanks to zero lighting in the garage where I store my 260.) Hopefully you can see that the bottom portion of the Tach/Speedo gauges are not angled as much as they are on the earlier dashes. This directly interferes with the current design, making it unable to seat fully. It also contacts the steering wheel....Sweet. Looks like I'll have to make a separate 260/280 gauge pod option. But at this point, I honestly don't know if my gauge alone will even fit back there...I'm about to go out there and freeze for a minute to ponder on the subject. Are there any lower profile gauges than the typical Autometer gauge(s) I am using? I wonder if Autometers are just unnecessarily deep. Any thoughts anyone? Oh yeah, I made the first insert mold today. It'll be ready to pull sometime tomorrow. ...And I pulled the clamshell molds today as well, so those are progressing. No wonder no one has made these before. Kind of a pain in the ass. But then again, if it were easy, everyone would do it. One step back. And one step forward.

As far as price is concerned. That is still an unknown. We anticipate having the production prototypes ready within a week. Once we have final assembled parts, then I'll crunch some numbers on prices. Console update... I made another carbon console. We are waiting on some 3k twill to arrive, so I used some 3k spread tow, normal weave, carbon instead. Since it isn't twill weave, it was an excellent test of the new geometry. This shape is much nicer to work with. The twill is going to be even easier. No storage compartments Clamshell update: Both plugs were molded today. Tomorrow I will most likely pop those molds and prep them to make the prototype(s). Started working some foam to make the gauge pod. I got a second set of clamshells today (thanks again Marcus!) so I'm going to spend the rest of my afternoon figuring out the shape and mounting angle of the pod. Is the general consensus that we would like the gauge to tilt slightly forward? Angling the gauge face downward towards the driver?

At the moment we are planning to make an inner flange/lip on one of the pieces, with well placed holes on the other piece. Small black screws will go through the outer shell, into the inner flange in order to hold the two sections together. The usual bolt that holds the bottom clamshell section to the ignition switch still applies. That probably makes zero sense to those reading it. The eventual pictures will explain it much better.

Sorry didn't see these until now... Thanks, they are the typical staggered Rota RB-Rs and cool, thanks. I appreciate that. Keep up the forward momentum! Last shots of the car outside for the season.

Random update for the weekend. Mold popped out. Here it is, freshly pulled, pre clean/trim. No more storage compartment geometry! Yay! Insert plug is sprayed and ready to begin fairing. Clamshell plugs are ready for the final fair, although I don't have sprayed pictures of them..Here they are ready to be sprayed.

That's great clay. I use it in the shop all the time. I always figured I'd be shaping from scratch, I just hoped there was going to be a quick and easy solution. I'll probably shape some foam. That seems simplest. PVC can be used as a guide. I gots some thinking to do. Thanks for the input guys. It helps.

Yeah, that's what I'm finding too. Really? Over three inches wide for your single gauge pod? C'mon.. Great suggestion. PVC is hard to bond to, but that idea is a much better alternative. Looks like I'll be taking a trip into the hardware store instead. I'll see what I can come up. Whatever it is will definitely be custom fit to the shape of the top clamshell piece. I'll be able to play with the angle a bit, but I don't want to change the geometry of the top portion of the clamshell, since this gauge provision is planned as a secondary option that can be bonded on before spraying clear/post production painting.

Haha, it's not my thread. It pulled me out of the woodwork and kind of snowballed from there. But thank you for the kind words. I appreciate them. In regards to your inquiry, I've never made tooling for others before. Not sure if it is feasible currently. I'll crunch some numbers and talk with my business partner and see. No promises though. Figured, since I was here...... I'd update everyone on my progress as of the last week. Infused a second console mold today. As you can see, there are no storage compartments in this one.. Greatly simplifies the geometry. Lovely. I won't know if it was successful until tomorrow, though. I made this to create a plug for some inserts. Here is the process, and the untrimmed/unmodified part pulled from the the mold. If you're confused, it will all make more sense as it develops. Oh, and some clamshell prototyping is well under way. Here are a couple of real rough starting pictures. I'm currently working on finding a suitable single gauge pod to use as a master. If anyone has any suggestions, I'm all ears.

Well I did some homework today. I have a 260z, and I remembered I had a clamshell from it. Can anyone confirm if the clamshell used in the 260z is the same as the 280? And does the early/late version matter. Mine is an earlier 260. Here are my specimens. (240 left, early 260 right) Both fit the 240z steering column. I think the later style clamshell would be optimal for a gauge provision, since it has a flatter portion on the top. (Plus my 260 shell looks to be in salvageable shape) Here is the 260 clamshell on the 240. Gorilla tape mocked. Running wires won't be too hard, but what's going to be a PAIN is figuring a way to make them attach, and close again. I doubt I'll be able to recreate the OEM fastener system. And yeah, 2 1/16" gauge pod would be secondary bonded somewhere around here, me thinks.

If you would be willing to donate it to the cause, I'd owe you a finished product. Or I could purchase that one from you. Shoot me a PM if you're interested. Unless the crack is entirely cosmetic (more of a scratch) I wouldn't want to use it as a model. If the crack is through the part I'd be too worried about maintaining geometric stability (keeping its shape). Point taken, and fully understood. As far as the intake/engine parts are concerned....Certainly doable, but then you have to start worrying about temperature. Depending on how hot some engine bays get, that temperature may exceed the temperature gradient (TG) of the resin systems being used. TG is the max temperature a resin system can withstand, before losing physical properties. Each resin system is different, so a little extra thought would have to be taken, that's all. If I have my druthers, I plan to make the following for my car: Console, Dash, Door Panels, Clam Shell We'll see. It really helps me nail the details when we get the community involved. Thanks for the suggestions everyone, I appreciate it.

Thanks everyone! I enjoy sharing the process. Hoods and hatches are possible, but improbable at the moment since we have some ideas we'd like to try but at a later date due to constraints currently. As far as the future? .....My plan is to make all the things I can't find, that I want for my car ('73 240z). Most of the market has been cornered. We are looking to add a couple projects to the shop floor this winter, so I am thinking about starting up a clam shell (with optional gauge provision) project next/as well. I just need to procure a master, as mine (like most) is cracked and FUBAR. I'm currently modifying a plug to make a new mold to expedite the manufacturing processes of the consoles. Sorry no pictures. But, just assume there's some sanding involved. I'll update accordingly.

+1 on radiant floor heat. Especially when building from scratch. I'd like to keep any and all pumps/compressors in a separate room. Utilizing manifolds for pull down air hoses, etc... Reduces noise and cleans things up quite a bit. If it were me, I'd also look into separating off a particular area for grinding/dust/paint with some sort of draft system. Have you thought about powder coating? If so, definitely add a sandblasting cabinet, and oven to your list. My next big project is going to be my new home/garage so this thread is of great interest to me.

Haha, that's just the prototype/proof of concept. They will get significantly better from here. I can't wait til I have one good enough to spray clear. Thanks for the kind words. I appreciate them very much. I'm fairly confident I have come up with a new way to produce the consoles more easily, with substantially higher quality control, and improved cosmetics. I started this project initially with only me in mind. But since receiving interest from a few different members, I am now switching gears to make these producible in larger efficient runs. Right now my plan is the following. Feel free to make any suggestions, as this is still just getting started. There will be 2 base console shape options. Specifically for what transmission you are running. (both would still utilize the stock ashtray) -OEM replica -T-5 modified Then there will be multiple options for inserts which will replace the stock storage compartments. Options like: -Cup holder -Storage compartments, similar to OEM -Solid top Those inserts will be bonded in separately, before any post production painting/coating process occurs. If I don't have to make a (new) separate plug and mold for each one of variations of the consoles that people want, it will help reduce cost, and the timeline. Making molds of inserts is significantly easier than remaking molds of entire consoles. That's my thought process so far.

Those are great ideas. The offset male plug as a caul plate is a beautiful idea. Total laminate thickness is only a few mils so it wouldn't be hard to do either. At that point you could even adapt to a closed molding process. Add some resin injection/vac ports, and a sufficient inner and outer seal, you've got yourself a light resin transfer mold. Now with improved cosmetics on the B side too. Way too many cool things to try. ...but I digress. haha. I snapped some (moderately) better pictures today. I mocked some stuff up. also got a post trim weight: 434 grams. And to those of us celebrating Thanksgiving, have a safe and happy holiday.

Thanks. It can be very rewarding work. Proof of concept. Roughly trimmed. Apologies for the god awful pictures. It's dark everywhere. EVERYWHERE! Untrimmed weight was 640 grams. I forgot to reweigh after trimming, before I walked out the door. Not quite production quality. While the twill conformed in one piece, it is inconsistent in spots. A couple problems.. mostly user error, some geometry based. But, It works in carbon, with some tweaking. That said, however, I'm going to make a new modified mold in order to improve quality control, reduce layup difficulty, and subsequently speed up the process significantly. While simultaneously incorporating different options depending on the application. Lots to think about, but I have a plan. As far as the car is concerned.....Currently testing my brake line fittings, and fighting a leaky fitting at the proportioning valve. Once I remedy that, I can start thinking about getting the engine back in the car. Next up. Test fit in the car. Yay! Edit: more console pics. Mocked.

Proof of concept. Roughly trimmed. Apologies for the god awful pictures. It's dark everywhere. EVERYWHERE! Untrimmed weight was 640 grams. I forgot to reweigh after trimming, before I walked out the door. Not quite production quality. While the twill conformed in one piece, it is inconsistent in spots. A couple problems.. mostly user error, some geometry based. But, It works in carbon, with some tweaking. That said, however, I'm going to make a new modified mold in order to improve quality control, reduce layup difficulty, and subsequently speed up the process significantly. While simultaneously incorporating different options depending on the application. Lots to think about, but I have a plan.