OldAndyAndTheSea

Some line cleanage. UGH! MUCH better. Much difficult. Much frustration. Utilized the stock mounting points, and just drilled the rubbers out to accept the 5/16" return. Despite what some of the angles might insinuate, nothing touches. I still need to mount the prop valve, install some grommets in the brake line holes and that's about it. Lovely. I have also changed the routing of the return, to exit out the transmission tunnel, like the feed. You'll understand later, however here's a real early idea of the exit. Okay.. I'm beginning to tire of being under the car. Thankfully not too much more remains. Had a wonderful sail this evening though. I'd have a video, however the GoPro took a swim....Whoops...RIP.

Continued: Finished the majority of the new line plumbing. Rears are just about there. Fitment just needs a little bit of tweaking. Also I trimmed the console. Very pleased with how it came out. Very clean. Haha! Almost doesn't need some finish attention. Almost. My face is covered in dirt. Time for a shower. Proportioning valve is roughly finished. Hooray!

Next post: (lost due to outage) Okay. Instead of using a bunch of unions, I just decided to remake the rear portion of the line. I have made it to the proportioning valve. I really like the placement. I'm still far from done, but I'm off to a good start. Here are some pictures to make sense of what I did. A little explanation too.. Cut the OEM piece at the approximate place for the the proportioning valve. The ashtray. And removed it from the car. I then used that as a template and made my own line. With appropriate changes. Flared with fresh M10x1.00 fittings. So far so good. But so much more to do as well. Stay tuned.

Okay looks like we lost some posts with the site outage. Luckily I have a few running build threads from my car. Here are the threads to fill in the gaps, bringing it up to current. This is the stuff that gets me going! So I have spent these past few days contemplating how I want to modify my braking system. Specifically the lines. The goal: Remove the OEM proportioning valve and plumb in an adjustable somewhere in the cockpit, with ease of use, troubleshooting and maintenance in mind. The new valve will go in the REAR brake line. After a few failed ideas, I think I have come up with a real winner. So here's what I plan to do... I removed the stock proportioning valve, which was mounted on the firewall at around the 7 o'clock position to the brake vacuum booster. I then fit the OEM lines together with brake line flared unions (Factory fittings are M10x1.00 - inverted flare) Perspective Also...dropped my transmission out. Lots of room to work. The car hasn't been this stripped of drivetrain since the assembly line (1/73) Where I have planned to install the proportioning valve is the type of stuff that makes me, a 25 year old dude, giggle. This is my center console. As you can kind of see, it's pretty decent. (would make a good plug for molding someday) However I'm left with these unsightly holes to deal with. So I'm going to turn a negative into a positive. I intend on hiding the proportioning valve (body) here, while trimming the center console (in said offending area) to allow the top of the valve to poke up through the console. Locating it between the ashtray (which would remain functioning, for spare change/toll purposes) and the shifter. The hole will be large enough to allow the console to remain easily removable, and would give it a really clean look. If necessary I can make a trim ring out of carbon, or glass, to really finish up the opening, as well. Yay! for thinking it over! I have to run into town later this afternoon to run some errands, but upon my return I will tear right into the install. I'm hoping to have it at least mocked up tonight. Wish me luck. Oh yeah, I changed the leaky pan gasket as well...But who cares about that?

Okay, so it would seem that I am on the right track. At this point in time, I am thinking about removing the OEM proportioning valve parts, reconnect the lines, then add the Wilwood adjustable somewhere further down the line, most likely in the cockpit somewhere. Glad to know I don't have to drill out that last fitting, logically it didn't make sense to me, but then again lots of things don't Thanks for the input!

The start of my brake stuff came today. Now I am trying to plan out my new braking system. I'm actually going to pull my motor out one more time, for a few different reasons, but that will make this as easy as possible. My car's production date is 1/73, so I'm pretty sure my braking system is different than the earlier cars. And being that it's a January car, I don't know if everything transitioned to my car, or if it still has 72 parts..That's my main reason for being so unsure....(please correct me if I am wrong) After reading through all of the brake upgrade threads, I've decided that there are WAAAY TOO FEW pictures of completed proportioning valve installs. So once I figure this stuff out, I'm going to diagram, and spell it out for anyone else in the future. But, I THINK I may have figured it out(?) Here's my logic....again.... correct me if I am wrong. So here is a picture of the stock 7/8" master cylinder, and the "distribution block" From what I understand, the line closest to the firewall (on the master cylinder) controls the front brakes; the one closest to the camera is the rear brakes, (same as the new Wilwood) I am under the impression that the distribution block can stay, and I can connect the master cylinder to the existing hard lines, if I utilize adapters, or the OEM 72-73 7/8" Master Cylinder fittings. The next step would be the proportioning valve. My research tells me that I must connect the prop valve to the REAR brakes, somewhere inline. This is a picture of what I believe to be the proportioning valve, mounted on the firewall (the upper most section of the block with the "F"s). That is where I believe I bypass, and hook into the adjustable prop valve instead. (or....if that is correct, I could drill out the OEM prop valve, and then leave it hooked up and add the prop valve in the cockpit. Right?) So at first, I thought that would be it, but then I started questioning myself in regards to the last junction for the rear brakes. This guy. And another view I believe I read somewhere that people would drill these out too? But that's one of the things I honestly don't know. So any feedback would be welcomed with open arms. Is my understanding of the braking system correct? I'm entirely self taught, and like everything else on this car, it is my first attempt at major aftermarket brake stuff, so I am a total novice. But I want to learn. I really appreciate the support.

Made some pretty decent progress this evening. Spent a couple hours, and leisurely pulled the entire rear end out of the car. The rear end (Still the original $hit-tastic clunky r180) was most certainly the weakest link in my system. Now I've got a blank canvas to work from. Definitely a milestone. I hated looking at that garbage in there. It's going to look sooo much better when I put all my goodies back in there. I still need to buy camber plates for the rear, which I may order this evening, and then I start focusing on brakes, and a limited slip differential. I'm currently eyeing an OS Giken Super Lock R200. *Droooools* Tomorrow or the next day I am expecting the first stages of my brake upgrade (1" wilwood master cylinder, and an adjustable proportioning valve) Also expected this week is the majority of my EDIS parts. I'm making progress on all fronts! Er....at least trying to.

Haha! That looks awesome!

Haha, pay my airfare and I'd gladly help you out, especially for a chance to check out your EFI wiring. Mentally, I'm at a point where I don't ever think about the car being driving or "done". I just keep turning bolts, til there are none left to turn. Hopefully one day I may surprise myself. Haha....one day. ...A little fiddling this morning. Front camber plates are done. I see a 1" front swaybar....and I want it to turn black. Looking a little better (Hurrible picture though...) New End links vs. Old I think I'll go for a sail today. More progress probably in the evening. Til then.

A little more progress. Nothing much. But it puts me in a good spot to work tomorrow. Getting the fit right. More to come tomorrow.

Trying to keep the momentum up. Thanks. I totally had those thoughts too, and from the picture I posted, it would appear that there is a lot of filler in there. I over applied, so I knew I had the areas I needed to fill covered. There is maybe only around a pencil leads thickness of filler around the inner perimeter of the cut out, most of which I had to file back off to allow the washers for the allen bolts to fit.........Doh! haha. But yeah, there is soo little filler in there, and even less now than I had before, that I am not concerned. I'm still figuring out if I want to run bolt ins (I will for now but I may eventually buy weld ins) I feel if my strut tower flexes enough to break the filler, I'll probably have more to worry about than just touch up paint.

Tonight I made some headway. -Stripped the driver's side suspension out of the car -Pulled the steering knuckle -Cleaned and powdercoated said knuckle -Measured and cut the opening (rough) for the driver side camber plate Sneak peak of both sides. Tomorrow, after work, I will try to smooth out the opening a little, and potentially finish up the Driver's side. Exciting!

Haha, yeah....Lets just hope I can get the wheels close to 0 as well. I'm hoping for decent turn in, not ice skating

Thanks, yeah, I am very happy with everything I've purchased there so far. The quality is top notch. Haha. I DO have a problem. Thanks for the kind words, I try to do my best. Update: Attached the steering knuckle, and bolted the lower control arm to the bottom of the strut assembly. Touch up paint. Tension rod with lower control arm mocked in place. Hooray for progress.

Here's more of what I did tonight. Slowly moving along, enjoying the process. Tonight I removed the steering knuckle from the old strut assembly, pressed out the ball joint, cleaned the part, and shot some powder at it. I love detail work like this. Cleaned up. Powder -semi gloss black Fresh out of the oven Next step: Lower control arms - old vs new Going back to working composites tomorrow, so I will continue the progress tomorrow evening once I get home from work. Til then....

Thank you! It was a good day. Yeah caster seems limited, I won't know for sure until I get the rest of the suspension fit. We'll see... Follow up.... The first stages of making it look acceptable. A little filler, some sanding, then some black primer. Followed by, you guessed it, another mock fit. After making the necessary modifications the gold block no longer hits. A little more shaping, sanding, and a touch up respray then it will be good to go. Some pics for clicks... More to come. This is fun.

Thanks for the continued support, everyone, I really do appreciate it. Today happens to be my birthday (25), so I have spent most of the day working on Datsun stuff. I decided to begin the camber plates, as I feel they will be the hardest, and scariest of everything involved. NOTE: This is my first foray into coilovers/camber plate stuff, so if you guys see me making oblivious mistakes, please feel free to comment and call me ignorant, cause I am. I'd love to only have to do this once. With bolt in camber plates there is somewhat of a debate as to if you should mount the plates on top of, or underneath the strut tower. Through my research, I decided that I wanted to mount these underneath. Gabe's, slightly ambiguous, description says to mount them on top, but I don't believe this will hurt anything (again, please let me know if I will regret this) So I took a bunch of measurements, made a template of the area to be removed, and got to cutting.... The pictures will better explain the process. Right now, the passenger side is pretty much there, (Although mocked currently) but, I need to slot the mounting holes outward slightly to allow the gold block of the coilovers to clear the camber plate mounting bolt nuts. Other than that, I think it will work. Hopefully; fingers crossed. And worst case scenario, I just buy weld ins, and skip the middle man. I didn't realize the steel was so thick up top. I'd definitely be comfortable welding. Time will tell what has to happen I suppose. Well.....Time for birthday steaks. I love me some grilling. More will surely follow.

Apologies for the lack of updates... The summer months are my busy season... ..So here's what has happened since you last heard from me... -Been daily driving the 280 -Painted a motorcycle for a Gentleman. Bed liner. -Got some garage walls! Doors too. -Cleaned. -A little landscaping -And finally, the sailing program that I teach has now come to a close for the season. But I've been doing this as often as possible. Here's some Moth footage I took a couple weeks ago. Went sailing yesterday, broke the boom...WITH MY HEAD.. Already fixed by this morning. Lots of stuff has been happening, luckily, my busy schedule has paid off. Got these boxes yesterday..... Suspension baby! Talk about a milestone. I've wanted this stuff since I first bought the car in '07. Courtesy of Gabe at Techno Toy Tuning. -Fully adjustable Front and Rear lower control arms -Front coilovers (sectioned struts, Koni dampers, 200# Eibach springs) -Bolt on camber plates + bearing top hats -Neg camber roll center adjusters (bump steer spacers) -Adjustable tension rods More parts are on the way! Things are changing. I am excite.

awesome!

I'm super curious as to his tooling. Specifically what he's using as materials for the tooling. Typically, when using prepregs, or cooking parts in general, you'd like the tooling to be made out of the same materials as your parts, or, ideally, more resistant to thermal expansion. Example: If you were to try to make carbon parts on glass tools, and you stuck it in the oven, you'd have a potato chip as a laminate, as the thermal expansion rates of the materials are so different. So I'd imagine he would use carbon to make the tooling, as that's what, ideally, he'd make some of the dashes out of. Assuming he is using the materials in that manner. And if he is, carbon molds are burly; He'd have no problem pulling 40-50 dashes easy.....Again, assuming the molds have the appropriate geometry. This thread has made me pull my craptastic dash, and I am going to start playing. For the past 4 weeks, with still two more to go, I have been teaching a sailing program here, instead of my composites business. Summer temperatures wreak havoc on cure times for resin systems, so my partner (also a sailor) and I take a 6 week sabbatical in the summer months from getting itchy.... Because it's too hot...yeah...that's our excuse, and we are sticking to it

I've used Energy Suspension and Prothane. Of the two, my preference is Energy Suspension.

If you're talking about a s130, which is what I'm assuming. (the car in your avatar.) Then the OEM fuel lines would be plenty sufficient for 300hp. If you're talking about a 240z, or some other carbureted early Z car, then it's a different story. Fuel pump(s): there are lots of options. Common ones are, but certainly not limited to.... Walbro 255 Bosche 044 If you haven't already, check out the Fuel Delivery Frequently Asked Questions section. There's a bunch of awesome information there. If it isn't covered there, it's definitely in the turbo/supercharger stickies.

Not difficult. Just time consuming. 5-6/10 In order to make the tooling (molds) he has to take his perfect master (plug) and somehow fabricate a flange around the plug to make a mold from. The flange is required for the process materials. (tacky tape, vac hose, peel ply etc...) putting the flange on would be one of the main challenges in the project. The outer skin would be one mold. - (which requires a plug to be made from) The inner skin (mounting system, however he decides it) would be another mold -(again requires perfect plugs) Glove box door would be easy, but as he said, 2 part mold. Inner and outer. In order to make one part you usually have to do the following. -Take master (dash in good condition) and fabricate a 6" flange around the perimeter of the part. -Fair plug to make it perfect. -Make mold from perfect plug. -Make part from said mold. So each of the multiple pieces need at least 2-3 steps in order to make a prototype part. Fairing of the plug, and making sure that there is no negative draft in the geometry takes the longest. And he is using prepreg, which is even more time consuming, as you have multiple "debulking" stages, where in between each successive layer of laminate, vacuum is applied, and the atmosphere consolidates the laminate stack, under a bag. Usually, this is done between every 1-3 layers of glass/carbon/aramid etc...Then it's cooked, or in his case, thrown into an autoclave. Autoclave is the best quality you can get. I was going to, and still plan on doing this myself. But as you are learning as well, finding that illusive perfect dash is what's holding me up too.... If I had the master, I'd be off and running.

Wow if he is autoclaving these parts. Jesus, they are going to be nice. He's using prepreg, which is as good as it gets (it's impregnated with catalyzed resin and must be baked to cure, but allows for extreme low weight, and high strength modulus.), and with the compaction and consolidation that the autoclave provides.....These are going to be beautiful laminates. I would LOVE to see the tooling. May I ask who you are using? This is what I do for a living as well.

a diamond cutting blade or wheel is the best for cutting carbon. Source: I'm a composites tech.