CarolinaTZ

My Shadow is not hinged but has stainless ribs down the sides that slide between the glass and weatherstrip. Cool design that requires no drilling of the hatch. Don't know if this helps or adds confusion. Joe

Hi, I'm in need of 1 (maybe 2) Rota RB 16x8 in +4 offset....in gold with polished lip. The curb won! Thanks, Joe

Yes, still looking.......PM sent and email too but it came back undeliverable. Thanks

Hi...I'm looking for a driver's side oem rear view mirror - from 74 - 78 - the plastic one - in good condition. I can paypal. Thanks, Joe

Just wondering how this turned out...thanks!

Hi, Looking for a late 260/280 oem radio w/ nice faceplate and connectors intact. Thanks and Merry Christmas

Hi, Can someone with an 11/74 260Z tell me the correct owner's manual for your car... Based on the month/year and part no. on the back cover. It will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Great...thanks!

Thanks guys....this thread has been helpful. I want to order the Vogtland springs for a late 260Z/280Z from Brandcarparts. I assume the photo on their website is incorrect (smaller at one end and progressive wound). http://brandcarparts.com/1975-1978-nissan-datsun-280z-vogtland-lowering-springs-kit-1-25-drop.html The picture on this ebay listing looks correct (no taper and linear wound). http://www.ebay.com/itm/VOGTLAND-GERMAN-LOWERING-SPRINGS-fits-NISSAN-DATSUN-260Z-280Z-1975-to-77-1978-/400786161518?fits=Make%3ADatsun%7CModel%3A260Z&hash=item5d50b77f6e:g:-uQAAOSwDN1UNiMy&vxp=mtr Are these the ones Brandcarparts send even though their web picture is different? Can any of you 280Z Vogtland spring owners confirm? Also, I plan to buy struts.....would Tokico Illuminas be worth the added cost as opposed to HPs?

Yes, pretty clear. I found the answer and shared it. Not uppity. Just the facts.

Read my first post....I didn't say the timing indicator is missing. It's there, where it was factory installed. I said I doubt the factory made a mistake but, I was spit-balling because it was a highly transitional time for the S30. Anyway, I got my answer. A friend of mine was a Datsun tech in the 70s and later a Nissan master tech. He said the dealer installed AC kit came with a 2-row pulley to replace the non-AC 2-row pulley, which had a narrower groove since it only drove the air pump. Do you see where this is going? The kit supplied pulley (the one I have) was the same as the factory AC pulley, meaning the timing mark would now be on the right side of the motor. That also meant the timing indicator needed to be swapped to the right side as well. He said these installs were hard to hack, but the $5/hour installers would sometimes leave off the final step of moving the timing indicator to the other side since a timing check was not a part of the AC install. Satisfies my curiosity! It runs well and I'll leave everything as is and make a new timing mark in the same location as a non-AC pulley when I have the valve cover off....maybe this fall. Or put a timing indicator on the passenger side. Right now I'm just enjoying driving this survivor time machine with it's cold AC, oh, and the sound of the nos Pacesetter vertical tips I just installed....reminds me of the 70s.

Thanks for the input, guys. I don't mind some disassembly to add loctite. I only have 263 red on hand...my concern is that if I ever had to take it apart, it would back the studs out of the diff cover. Do y'all agree? If i'm wrong, I'll just use the red. Otherwise, I'll get some 243 blue or 290 green....I may lean towards the green since it's hold is similar to blue with the added benefit of not having to disassemble.

Yes, I plan to put loctite on them the next time I'm under there. After being in so many that clunked, I was convinced they all did it without the upper style mount. That would be a design flaw. But that's not the case. As long as everything is tight, the design works fine on a stock powered car. I'm just excited I don't have to alter the stock diff setup on my 260Z that I want to keep original. As far as the RT setup...I'm not saying it's not an improvement....it is. I'm using one on my 72 turbo car w/ 3.90 clsd.

was simply loose nuts where the diff attaches to the mustache bar. My 260Z has 63,000 miles and had a horrible clunk unless I synchronized the throttle/clutch/shifter with surgical timing. I did searches and most of the topics pointed to the so-called "flawed" design of the diff setup on the S30. I was convinced I needed to install the RT front diff mount. I started with a floor jack under the nose of the diff....I expected to see a lot of lift and a deteriorated front mount. The front of the diff lifted probably 1/4" before it started to lift the car and the bushing mount looked new. To my surprise, when I reluctantly crawled under the car with a torque wrench to hit all the fasteners around the diff/suspension, there was some loose hardware.....and this car has not been driven hard. I almost forgot about it 'til the next time I drove the car. Wow! The clunk was gone! Yeah, I can feel the normal backlash but, instead of clunking it is quietly absorbed by the "springy" metal parts and bushings. I'm pretty sure the diff was rotating and the studs were wracking in the mustache bar holes. Checking for loose fasteners should be the first thing to do....and some of the message threads said to do that first. But overwhelmingly the threads immediately addressed the front mount issue......and the fact that I convinced myself a low mileage car would not have any loose hardware.....not true. If you have a clunk, check your fasteners.....you may be pleasantly surprised.

That sounds like a plan, beermanpete. I'll do that when I have the valve cover off. It runs fairly well.....I think most of my drivability issues are coming from my Weber DGVs. I have a set of sealed shaft bearings I plan to install when I rebuild the carbs....and then hopefully can get "all" dialed in. Thanks guys.

Thanks for the thoughts, NewZed. I wondered about something being "off" but the car is a survivor and the original owner was not abusive. I don't think any of it's ever been apart. I replaced the wires and cap recently and everything came apart and went together with no red flags as if the wires had been indexed (not that I would be able to tell) or anything like that (it still had the original 1974 Sumitomo plug wires). I'll check the valve clearance soon and will confirm the distributor is "timed" correctly with the cam. While it's very unlikely the wrong pulley was installed from the factory, the 260 was a transitional model and the late 260 (11/74) even more so. This thing was just on the verge of being a 280 and still a little 240.....that's the only reason I wondered if the factory installed the wrong one....I was not even aware of the variation of the 2 timing setups until recently. I don't see why the dealer that installed the AC would have needed to change the pulley. Good idea....I thought about getting a right side timing indicator. It runs fairly well but I want to check the timing just to be sure there's nothing left on the table.

I highlighted the faint mark on the harmonic balancer on my late '74 260Z in order to check the timing. The mark does not light up anywhere near the timing indicator on the left side of the engine. I took the timing light to the passenger side and I think I see the mark. The 260Z fsm shows the timing indicator on the left side on non-AC cars....and shows the timing indicator on the right side for factory-AC equipped cars. Mine did not come from the factory with AC....it was dealer installed....but does appear to be the correct system for this car. The dealer installed AC runs off the front of the 2 groove pulley. I assume the front groove was once used to power the smog pump which, this car no longer has. I'm wondering if the mark is hard to see and I simply marked the wrong spot on the pulley or does my car have the wrong harmonic balancer.....either incorrectly installed from the factory or swapped at some point. This is an unmolested, low mileage car with no signs of being hacked on. What are your thoughts as to why I'm not seeing the timing mark light up in the correct area? Thanks for your help...Joe

I am looking for a chrome vintage style mirror to replace the stock one on my 260Z that can be bolted on from the outside. That's how I stumbled onto this thread. My .02 cents....Over 30 years ago I installed a pair of Vitaloni Baby Turbos on my '77. As far as I know, they are still on that Z. I was completely satisfied....great visibilty (no vibration), blue anti-glare tint, never lost their setting (never moved). I don't know if Vitaloni makes them any more....that's why the NOS ones go for so much money. I would buy a pair now but I am trying to maintain the vintage look on my 260Z.

The original car, as seen above, was featured in Feb. 1976 Hot Rod magazine. I ordered this kit for my turbo '77 in the 84/85 time frame along with the square headlights and the 3m adhesive they recommended. It was a 5 piece kit in grey gelcoat. Just after this they contacted me to let me know they had developed a spoiler for the kit. Since it was not in the catalog, Jim Cook sent me a shop photo of it installed on that car. I ordered the spoiler which came in a white gelcoat if I remember correctly. The kit is still alive and well, in Ohio last I knew, still on the same car. I have the catalog and the photograph tucked away somewhere....we moved and things are still in boxes so I can't put my hands on it. I also ordered the Centerline "Champ"? wheels from Jim Cook at the same time. It all made for a very nice Z BITD.

Thanks, m1ghtymaxXx....she's a good one. Hey, RebekahsZ I saw one comment and you seem to have your problem fixed so I would hardly say the thread is ruined. I assume you don't own a dog.

I just found an old receipt from 1984, when I had the stock 14" steelies widened 2" front, and 3" rear on my 77 280Z. Had it done at "Rim and Wheel House" in Spartanburg for $25 per wheel. Also found the receipt for the tires that went on them.....BFG T/A's.....245/50/14 front, 265/50/14 rear. I did this to fill out those Bob Sharp flares! Forgive my reminiscing. Did he have to heat treat or do anything special to keep the strength in the wheel? Nice work on the Wats! They are beautiful!

There's a fine line between true value and greed. Most of the value is in the race history. And, while you don't go by the original cost, you don't ignore it either. It truly belongs with the original car and if that can't be managed, at least keep it intact. By no means, should you de-tune it for street use. If you replace the 2 pistons and clean/re-gasket it (provided it doesn't need anything else), what you have is a high-end race motor.....not to mention the history. In the end, it's worth what you and the buyer decide on. But, it would seem to be worth way more than a "built" street head. Maybe a "hot" street long block....tested and ready to bolt in and use the induction system and header it came with. I don't know....maybe it's not worth that but vintage race stuff (from any genre) with a history ain't cheap!

It's in the $2500 range. This one has a 2200lb axle....they also offer a 3500lb axle. 1 man can easily lift the tongue and walk this thing around. It's decked with solid ribbed aluminum. This is the shortest one you can get a Z on and close the ramp....but they offer a range of sizes/options. Google "Aluma" to learn more and where to buy. I think it's the model 7712 on this page.... http://sale-fire.com/Aluma%20Trailers?p=gcp&gclid=CO6u1YvR7sACFQqGaQodkikA6Q I attached a couple more pics....

This "Aluma" is what I use when hauling my "Z". Easy to load and pulled effortless behind my 4.7 in the photo....I now pull with my 5.7 and it doesn't know it's back there.

I always thought a set of Fuch's needed to be on a Z! These Porsche flares necessitate a wide set of Porsche Fuch wheels to be on this car! That is art!