linluv84

Stay away from the Canadian motor shops. As far as I can tell, there are only 2 companies selling engines up there anyways. There is Osaka and a company with multiple aliases that sells engines from Osaka. I got a cut harness, had to pay extra for the MAF, and had missing components. The MAF they sent me was even shorted internally and fried my ECM!!! They offered absolutely no resolution to my problems, only telling me they didn't sell the parts I needed. I can only count my blessings that the engine and trans were in good condition. SPEND THE EXTRA MONEY TO HAND-PICK YOUR ENGINE FROM A DOMESTIC SOURCE. CUTTING CORNERS WILL COST YOU DOUBLE (OR MORE) IN THE END...

Nice, Pat! I might have you make another pan for me one of these days. You've come a long ways since you built mine. It serves its purpose quite well, but dang those new ones are perrrtty!!!

It's fun right now, but it should be around 10psi, not 6psi...

I don't really like the idea of a manual boost controller and a proper electronic one is kinda pricey. I would be happy with running the RB as designed. Its my daily driver and already has enough power

LOL, about 4psi more than I'm currently running...

After over a year, I'm still on the hunt for the factory boost control components (pressure sensor & control solenoid) that were missing from my swap. I've called around and basically nobody wants to sell the parts separate from the motor. My goal is only to run stock boost. Any help is appreciated...

Easily fixed

I would not be surprised if the Z32 TPS fit right up. They seem to have a lot of parts in common. Good luck on the new project!

I think mine ended up around 22" as well. The stock driveshaft splined right into the RB20 trans, so it was a pretty basic cut and balance...

I changed out the filter and no more problems so far. It is supposed to be really hot later next week, so we'll see how it goes. The filter was a lot dirtier than it looked sitting underneath the car...

The problem reproduced itself today. 105 deg ambient, 3219ft elev, est 130 deg fuel temp. The fuel was indeed boiling inside the G3 filter. I replaced the filter with a gutted Bic pen and drove home without any further problems. Off to wally world for a new filter after dinner...

I'm thinking about something like this:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-4136/ . I definitely need to get this sorted out before it starts getting really hot out here, or the car will be undrivable in the afternoon...

It didn't stay hot long enough to recreate the problem. The weather changed suddenly to torrential downpour and the temp dropped ...

It's 105deg out right now. I'll go for a drive and see if I can't recreate the problem. I'm also at 2300ish ft, which probably isn't helping either...

KOEO, it reads about -5A during prime. Engine running, it normally reads +10A. Shortly before I start having problems, it will go as far as +30A. Everything is running off the battery except for the headlights...

I figured the fuel pump would draw more current when it was hot. Especially if the fuel turned to vapor and stopped flowing. Strange that every load I put on the system shows up on the ammeter. Thought it was supposed to work that way...

The tank was quite hot, actually. Maybe that fram G3 prefilter is the culprit. A small amount of sediment has built up over the past couple years, might be time to change it...

As soon as the ambient temp here got up above 105deg, I started having fuel issues. After about 20mins of freeway driving, the ammeter creeps up and the fuel pump noise changes. The car will sputter and eventually stall, only restarting after a good 30mins of cooldown. The intake manifold and intercooler cold pipe are too hot to even touch after freeway driving. I am using the stock RB25det intake with a McKinney intercooler and it seems like the cold pipe is picking up heat where it runs behind the radiator. The intercooler itself is right at ambient. I've switched to a higher flow pump (pierburg 250lph) and checked the fuel lines for clearance from the exhaust. My next step is to check my fuel pump supply voltage and look for a lower temp t-stat. Anybody else running an RB in the desert and experiencing similar issues?

I'll compare them to the McKinney mounts to make sure the alignment is similar...

I'll try to send some pics. No trans mount or Supra isolators, just the aluminum parts and bolts. You can have them for $200 shipped. I ended up going with the McKinney setup because my project was falling behind schedule and I didn't have time to fab more shtuff... edit: Had to bump up the price a tad, I thought I had paid less for them. I bought them from mrcheeze36 for $275...

I still have a set of Wong mounts that I don't need...

Ah, gotcha. Mine is setup the same way. I assumed that was basically the stock setup...

Why not let the ECM control the fuel pump?

Oh, almost forgot that the Z got rear-ended somewhere in the middle of all this. At least it happened when I was about to repaint it...

Wow, I guess an update is long overdue. I ended up getting a MAF off a 96-98 Maxima . I've put about 15k miles on the motor and everything is good so far. My goal of having a functional MIL is not looking like a possibility. Even with the "secret squirrel" fix, the ECM has codes for the traction control system. Hopefully I will be able to acquire the stock boost control components someday soon. Even on 6psi of boost, it pulls incredibly strong and is a blast to drive. The Bosch 280ZX fuel pump seems to have no problems feeding the motor. It holds 11.9 all the way through boost. We'll see how it does once its running full factory boost. Under average driving conditions, I'm seeing about 25mpg city and 32mpg freeway...