linluv84

The stock regulator works just fine for me...

I wired up my MS like so... batt-fuse-relay coil pos (b/w) - relay relay-two wires (one to pump, one to injectors/MS) no problems so far...

That's a pretty slick setup. I like the 'extra' plug wire coming off the cap that disappears under the air box too...

FWIW, the strange black connector is not used on my setup...

Now make sure you get it tuned before you go blowing it up...

Yep ballast resistor goes between coil power (black, white stripe) and pos side of coil. The trick is the power wire for the ign unit (red?) goes to the harness side of the resistor. I believe it says somewhere in the manual what size resistor you need, but the stock S30 one should work fine. On another note, THANKS TWOEIGHTYTHREEZ FOR THAT INFO! That would explain my runaway motor problem. If I step into the throttle and the turbo spools up quickly, it sucks the pedal to the floor. I will have to re-adjust that...

Indeed, do all the work (including the tranny) and install it as one piece. I spent a good chunk of last weekend fighting the pilot bushing. Ended up pulling the motor back out and mating up the tranny on the floor...

Stock ZX regulators are pretty easy to find and pretty reliable too. Watch the tach in MT, I used to get some nasty spikes in the tach signal until i added a resistor to filter out the noise...

Check the realtime display both with the engine on and off to check for incorrect sensor data. Did you calibrate the TPS properly in Megatune? Make sure the throttle moves nice and smoothly in the realtime display...

If you want to visit vegas, I can tell you a really good shop that can do it...

Despite anything that MSA will try to tell you, the XR700 REQUIRES a ballast resistor. I had that setup at one point in time and spent over an hour waiting for Crane tech support to tell me I needed a ballast resistor. Trust me, it will solve half the problem (if not more than half!). After that, it should just be a matter of getting the timing set...

If I recall correctly, the only enrichment you will want to turn off for tuning is O2 correction. I usually just set it to go closed loop at 10k rpm or so...

You will be suprised at how little has to be correct to get it running. Now, getting it running well is a whole other story. I HIGHLY reccomend spending at least an hour on a dyno with someone that knows exactly what they are doing. If there is a bunch of Hondas with oil dripping out the tailpipe parked out front, you are at the wrong place...

Z-ya, I dont want to 'steal' the thread, but do you happen to have a good 12x12 map for a somewhat factory turbo setup?

My MS passes emissions without even a cat. Basically I had the dyno guys hook it up to a 5 gas and get the emissions to a minimum under no load conditions up to about 2800 rpm. Obviously this approach only works for non obd vehicles in states that dont do that dyno emessions testing crap...

Not bad, but I dont think enough tax return money will be left after bills and the turbo setup...

The PO of my car cut the elbow off the stock ZX cleaner and clamped on a K&N. Unfortunately, the filter was snagged while it was in the salvage yard. I put a $25 Autozone filter on it. Sounds wicked...

How so? Even a MS2 fully assembled is only $390! Here is a short list of name brand crap... SDS- $917 basic 6 cyl kit Motec- $2,677.51 basic 6 cyl kit Haltech-$1,081 USD AEM-$2,724.75 I guess I must be missing the point somewhere...

Its still way cheaper than a name brand if you buy it assembled. Protocar.net has good prices and high quality work...

If its that big of a deal, temporarily 'convert' it to propane and get it exempted for life. A four barrel intake and a propane carb would work nicely. You could probably get away with strapping the tank to the rear deck...

Im thinking turbo header, right Spork? Wish me luck talking the wife into a lonewolf intake with this year's tax return...

Any word on what the final $$$ will be for Ron's intake? It would be neat to see the runners be able to unbolt from the flange. That way it would be easier to do head/exhaust work...

From the map, it looks like it would work well on a high flowing l28et running ~15psi, but not so well for a low boost (10-12) stocker...

I was referring to an open element (little plastic cage) sensor mounted to the intake. I believe it is mentioned somewhere in the Megamanual...

I had a slight fitment issue on my ZX with an MSA exhaust where is was hitting the inner u-joint, but a little adjusting fixed that in a hurry. Nothing like squatting the back end hearing CLACK CLACK CLACK...