docaam
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Posts posted by docaam
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Very sorry to hear that.
One thing bothers me is here labour is cheap and so is the built quality, mechanics mess up the whole car but once its running usually no issues comes up, then how come an engine from such a highly reputed builder have on going issues, will they stand behind some kind of commitment? if you contact them
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Finally dropped the engine in and start putting things back together, intake clearance is not that good touching the hood a bit will send middle and lower intake manifold part for some shaving
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Finally dropped the engine in and start putting things back together, intake clearance is not that good touching the hood a bit will send middle and lower intake manifold part for some shaving
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Got the engine cleaned up bought some Duplicolor cans for final finish, Used a gray colour on engine block
The block was properly cleaned inside out then sprayed all areas, some buff is there which will be cleaned up and also paint on some bolts but just wanted a cleaner look. Picture were taken from a cell phone so quality looks bad but in person looks really clean and with red covers would look sick
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Looks good, You smoothed out those welds a lot. Hopefully it'll be fine for passing inspection. I hope that steering cross member works well, You certainly made it beefy enough. I hope you can get the steering shafts to clear. You'll still need to make a brace to hold the end of the steering shaft before the U joints. I was going to triagulate mine to the fenderwall, but it'll be great to see what you come up with. You gearbox mount looks good. Mine's very similar to Austin's but I'm thinking I'm going to redo it since mine sticks out too far and may touch my fuel lines. Your gearbox mount looks pretty good, though keep the exhaust in mind, since it has to run past it. (Thus Austin's C shape half pipe cutouts.)
Yeah its kind of ok for inspection.
For steering shaft will work on it once AC and exhaust manifold all are done. I believe there is space in exhaust mounting for the exhaust pipe as I am using the same one which was with RB25 earlier.
Got the engine cleaned up bought some Duplicolor cans for final finish, Used a gray colour on engine block
The block was properly cleaned inside out then sprayed all areas, some buff is there which will be cleaned up and also paint on some bolts but just wanted a cleaner look. Picture were taken from a cell phone so quality looks bad but in person looks really clean and with red covers would look sick
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Any updates on the built
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Yours is cut and welded nicely compared to mine lol
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Right, okay, Well looking at the new steering crossmember for your rack, it's quite a bit different than the stock location. You may also need to add longer inner tie rods to adjust the angle. That's not to say it won't work moved an inch forward, but I'm not sue there's that much adjustment in the tie rod ends to allow it to be aligned. You've got it there, so you're going to be the best judge of what works. I get really concerned about the steering linkage angles using those Subi U joints. They're huge.
Is it possible to rotate the Subi rack back so the Pinion points under the AC compressor? If you did that you could lower the rack and move it backward in the compartment under the main crank pully and the AC compressor. you may have to cut a scoop out of the driverside frame rail, to allow the shaft to come up to meet the steering shaft, but you'd get your steering back more to a stock position, while keeping your AC compressor.
The Stock 350Z steering U joints are much smaller, which may make it easier to fit. I pulled 3 steering columns from the junkyard so I'd have enough U-joints, I'm sure you can order them from Nissan if your JY doesn't have them.
Yeah i guess inner and out tie rods needed to be changed. Actually so far haven't placed the tie rod ends and checked as I kept that for later once engine is in. Check the picture below steering rack looks a bit different once its all finished, the brackets holding the rack are stock suby ones. 350z U joint is a good idea will look into it, but I will leave all these till engine is IN, as things will be more clear at later stage.
Cross members are done with finished. Grinding was done then rust proofed then painted matte black, looks much better
Engine oneSteering cross-member, still needs to be installed and checked for measurementsGearbox mountWill be using 350z auto transmission mount bushesShortening of the gearbox is done as well, got almost 4 inches or more outCut and weldSent the car to get engine bay painted black -
As I was saying, we've got some real concerns about the Rack placement and Steering Geometry. There's nothing that says your metalwork has to be symetrical, so if as I mentioned in the other thread, if you rotated the Subi rack back so it points under the AC compressor you may be able to mod the rack mount and frame rail to route the shaft back though I don't know about how the turbo would fit. 45 degrees is about the max for a U joint so keep that in mind when you're trying to route the steering.
Im not sure if rotating is possible, but will check this once install it after putting the engine IN.
AC compressor can be move up or down few inches in case of worst scenario. Lets see how it goes
I agree with comment above.
What would happen if U-joint angle being too big is torque variation on steering. If you plot steering torque vs. steering wheel rotation, you'll end up with a sine wave. Steering feeling will be wrong (at the condition that you can steer)
Fingers crossed but thanks for heads up
Moving along
Cross members are done with finished. Grinding was done then rust proofed then painted matte black, looks much betterEngine oneSteering cross-member, still needs to be installed and checked for measurementsGearbox mountWill be using 350z auto transmission mount bushesShortening of the gearbox is done as well, got almost 4 inches or more outCut and weldSent the car to get engine bay painted black -
Your car seems to get featured alot! I have one of your pictures from crank and piston as my desktop wallpaper as inspiration
Just these two lol nothing more
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Coming to crossmember I checked pathfinder crank case I suggest using that to people it's atleast 2 inches shorter from front but as I made new for steering rack won't change now.
Dropping engine also not possible need to do mounts again then and crank case might rub as I will keep car a bit more lower then now. I saw a S15 built with same engine he managed to shave middle and lower intake manifold around quarter of an inch or so will try shaving first and I ported it so might be better airflow there.
Now for geometry I'm a bit worried as well on that part but I haven't changed the point where lower control arms meet its the stock one just removed the stock rack and stock cross member and this new fabricated one will make the Suby rack sit an inch forward which makes room for AC compressor as well. Once the mount is finalised will post pictures and might look for opinion. Outer tie rod end might needed to be replaced from Suby legacy to those bent ones common in toyota as Suby ones will be under slight stress just assuming at the moment.
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I'm not sure I understand. You said you're not allowed to have visible Welds in your mounts? Does that mean you can weld it, but that the welds like you've done in your engine mounts have to be cleaned up and sanded smooth? That seems pretty strict, but I guess they're trying to keep things safe and prevent people from just throwing things together.
I was going to use the Stock rubber isolators myself, but they are so tall, I didn't want to add to the trouble of getting around the AC pump for the steering shaft. I'm using something similar to Mikey's mounts, but instead of the stock mount, like you've got, I'm using the stock engine bracket, Ford Bronco rubber isolators and the under mount almost the same as Mikey's/McKinney's mount. Of course I've built mine myself as well.
Yeah man welds in mounts needed to be smooth I mean really smooth, and NO WELDS on the body at all like some people install bars to support the body or weld the mounts on chassis its not allowed here at all. I did something to the rack and AC thing seems in a better situation now check the post below.
Sorry couldn't post updates but there has been some progress but installing this engine sure is difficult
We (myself and my mechanic) managed to get a custom cross member done for the engine now its in final shape and been tested already, with stock 350Z mounts.
With mounts on
Installed the covers to see some space and test the mounts
Drilled holes as will keep screws to hold the mount to avoid any registration issues
AC compressor blocking stock steering rack
Turbo might touch/melt the steering coupler but it will be removed with new rack
Height without upper intake manifold seems ok
New Steering cross member, clamps to hold the suby steering is not not finalized will use stock rubber bushes. Its basically will move the rack almost half an inch forward but gives good space for crankcase
So with suby steering at least keeping AC compressor with a VQ engine seems to be solved there is around 3/4th of an inch gap and can be moved futher with adding another joint.
Height might be an issue need some shaving of intake manifold
Once steering rod is done will remove both cross members get those properly welded then grinding some epoxy primer and get it powder coated moving to exhaust manifold and fitting other parts.
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Sorry couldn't post updates but there has been some progress, installing this engine sure is difficult
We managed to get a custom cross member done for the engine now its in final shape and been tested already, with stock 350Z mounts
With mounts on
Installed the covers to see some space and test the mounts
Drilled holes as will keep screws to hold the mount to avoid any registration issues
AC compressor blocking stock steering rack
Turbo might touch/melt the steering coupler but it will be removed with new rack
Height without upper intake manifold seems ok
New Steering cross member, clamps to hold the suby steering is not not finalized will use stock rubber bushes. Its basically will move the rack almost half an inch forward but gives good space for crankcase
So with suby steering at least keeping AC compressor with a VQ engine seems to be solved there is around 3/4th of an inch gap and can be moved futher with adding another joint.
Height might be an issue need some shaving of intake manifold
Once steering rod is done will remove both cross members get those properly welded then grinding some epoxy primer and get it powder coated moving to exhaust manifold and fitting other parts.
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Here's the Link to MikeyM's VQ mounts: It's in the RedZedBuildThread on the V6 forum. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/106860-red-zed-build-thread/
Thanks man, I think I saw those but mine was kind of done when I passed by yesterday one picture attached will post later more, and the part which you have shown Im using stock one along with 350Z mounts, the problem here is if there are any visible of welds in chassis or mounts they don't renew the yearly registration so using stock engine mount was mainly because of this hassle and cant weld the cross member for same reason. I will try to follow the gear mounting as per MikeyM's mount seems legit
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Got the parts and work is moving as wellCross member taking final shapeTook the broken turbo and got it replaced with a similar one, very nice condition.Got JWT clutch and flywheelRest of partsDouble pass Griffin radiator 19""x 24" found it to be the best for this purposeFlex A Lite 16" fan with shroudSteering rack bushes for both stock and forester one, will try to work out a combo of both2000 Sti/legacy outer and 84 celica inner tie rod endsFits nicely, hopefully will make it close to stock steering rack along with plenty of toe adjustment.Legacy original steering bootMishimoto coolant and power steering reservoir
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Got the parts and work is moving as wellCross member taking final shapeTook the broken turbo and got it replaced with a similar one, very nice condition.Got JWT clutch and flywheelRest of partsDouble pass Griffin radiator 19""x 24" found it to be the best for this purposeFlex A Lite 16" fan with shroud
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Here is mine
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Wow those Turbos are a squeeze in there. I wonder if you can swap left/right exhaust manifolds to move the turbos forward a little to clear your brake MC a little more. It'll be tight either way.
I can you you did have to cut quite a big from the steering crossmember.. If you box it in in front and under the Rack you should be fine. Did you look at the engine mounts in the link I sent you a while ago? They're pretty good and a lot more minimal than using anything that looks similar to the stock mounts (350z type) That setup uses L angle iron to allow the mount to be slid forward and back so you can get just the right locations. I can send the link again if you need.
Yeah, That shifter, even with the shifter shortened as far as I could, I still had to cut about 2" back on the shifter hole to make mine fit. You'll be fine I think. maybe 1", just enhour to get into gear. You may have to notch the right side to so you can get it into reverse. but that'll all come later.
Phar
I can move the turbo or add another lol as its just 100$, but dont want to route turbo lines, there would be some alteration to down pipe part and I might put some spacer to move the turbo a bit up, but all after mounts are done.
You didnt send me any link but just some name, please so do if you can. Only reason using 350Z mounts is for future incase wants some good or solid mounts then they will be bolt on.
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Working on the engine mounts, cross member had to be dissected quiet a lot, will reinforce it with steel sheets where the line is, which will be done once new forester steering rack reaches here on Thursday. Might need to relocate the oil filter as well.Took a rollcage style pipe 1.5" will use it as new cross member welded to two plates which will lie on stock chassis rails, as we can weld anything on the chassis so will drill the rails and install steel tube to hold the bolts might put less stress on the rails. Mounts will be using stock for VQ35DE from 350Z, so far spacing seems tight but manageableMain issue which was worried about was exhaust manifold with the turbo so that fits without touching the chassis rails but still engine is more on right side then left so some small alternation might be needed. There is same plate with two holes and some provision is left to move engine front and back incase its neededFor gear shifter might need some cutting as well where the red circle is marked but it will be done in the end.
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Working on the engine mounts, cross member had to be dissected quiet a lot, will reinforce it with steel sheets where the line is, which will be done once new forester steering rack reaches here on Thursday. Might need to relocate the oil filter as well.Took a rollcage style pipe 1.5" will use it as new cross member welded to two plates which will lie on stock chassis rails, as we can weld anything on the chassis so will drill the rails and install steel tube to hold the bolts might put less stress on the rails. Mounts will be using stock for VQ35DE from 350Z, so far spacing seems tight but manageableMain issue which was worried about was exhaust manifold with the turbo so that fits without touching the chassis rails but still engine is more on right side then left so some small alternation might be needed. There is same plate with two holes and some provision is left to move engine front and back incase its neededFor gear shifter might need some cutting as well where the red circle is marked but it will be done in the end.
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So why would you want a slower ratio? Thinking 2.5 or 2.7 is already too slow.
Just because to have power steering
That rack setup should work out well. Are you going to use the Stock VQ30 PS pump? I'd imagine that's the way to go, the harder part will be plumbing the Hight pressure lines. Usually they use thick wall metal tubing. I'm sure any hydralic company can make you some custom HP hoses. It may be possible to reuse some S130 PS lines, or maybe your VQ30 lines, but be really careful bending them as any kinks can ruin the hard lines. I'm planning on this same swap after I get my VQ35 running and in place, using the VQ pump.
I know a shop who did my fuel lines, they do sell good high pressure lines, as mainly they do for diesel trucks, rack will be here by Thursday its in shipping then will see how to get it done. Will be using the stock pump for sure.
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awesome swap
so where is this DIY steering rack article?
What kind of ratio does this rack have and have you looked at any other options?
I read a PDF file somewhere here with the conversion, not sure about ratio but I remember something like 3.5 compared 2.5 or 2.7 stock one. there are few threads here tons of information there
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Looking good. That's exactly the reason we have to mod the crossmember. It's the only way to get it to sit low enough. Now how high does your intake plenum sit? I'm pretty interested in seeing that, since the VQ35 plenums are so large. The VQ30 might be swapable between the two engines, if that's the case it might be an option for the VQ35DE guys.
Why move the Radiator? the fan doesn't do that much for the engine, mostly it's the airflow through the radiator that does most of the cooling. Granted it's a LOT hotter where you live, but it might just be a better idea to use a thicker radiator, mounted in the stock location with an electric fan (some people use 90's ford taurus Efans, but whatever you can find in Dubai is great.
Did you chrome then paint the timing cover, or did I just miss some masking?
I think VQ30 has smaller plenum but higher, mine lower and middle part is still with porting guy, but I did bring lower plenum from VQ35DE and holes are slightly different, first the pattern in 35 its almost round while in 30 its more of oval shape and injector holes doesn't line up. The best plenum from 35 is of HR, DE is a bit restricted as well and there are some companies making an improved version like Kinetic, Motordyne also sells a spacer for 35DE. Even I used Motordyne in take plenum in my 370z which is some revised version of stock VQ35HR.
I am really looking forward to change middle part from mine and use either 35DE or even 35HR one as can route the pipe towards passenger side easily.
I gave the previous radiator and flex-a-lite twins with the previous engine and got new radiator and fan, moving close to the engine first just for aesthetic purpose too much space between engine and radaitor seems like you have dropped half of the engine, second will move the oil cooler, AC condensor and radiator away from intercooler. Planning on something like this if remove everything and just some pipes for strengthening or might move the stock apron closer.
Another idea is this without too much cutting
For timing cover yeah it was chromed but painted chrome then red with matte clear coat.
We did cut the cross member, seems like its gone no strength at all there will enforce it later once all other settings are done but now engine goes down. Needed some cutting on passenger side because of the oil filter location.
My question is as I will be making a new cross member for the engine which will go below the engine can this one be reversed and moved in front of steering rack compared to behind, any issues I can encounter moving it?
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Such an impressive detail in work there
Help me find an RB30 block!
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
Someone asked few months back and I said can send it from here in Dubai, whole RB30 engine sells for 500$ish same for shipping it. But some documentation charges are there so better if more then one engine, I just shipped mine to a guy in SA