docaam
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Posts posted by docaam
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Nice photos, I like the ones with the Burj Khalifa in the background. I spent 5 months in Abu Dhabi in winter last year, had a great time, gutted I didn't get to go back this year. I lived at the Yas Marina Cicuit and loved all the car action, F1, drag racing, drivng on the F1 track in a few different cars, drifting in one of the big car parks outside the track, not to mention all the nice cars you see in Dubai.
Haha Yas Marina is a very nice place to be actually
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Hey guys,
If anyone is planning to move to FI from NA and has a nice built/running L series engine I would be interested.
Would prefer only something which is pushing 250hp atleast not stock ones. Running on carbs or fuel injection both would do.
Can purchase with gearbox
Thanks
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That's a notch top. Not sure if s14 or s15 but the years are 95-01. The s14 years are 95-98. The big ident is the weird notch thing on the left of the valve cover.
Are you looking to go stock or modify? There are loads of parts for SR20's all over the web. If it happens to be an S15 and you want to go stock you may be hard pressed to find the OEM stock turbo; they don't pop up that often (had steel wheels I've heard). But they are still around.
Otherwise, if my knowledge suits me, parts from SR20's swap between them all. You've just got VVT so better gas mileage.
Was looking for parts for this before making a purchase, so S14 and S15 are interchangeable? as parts are usually listed as S13 and S14 most of the time.
If going for aftermarket turbo not looking at very high numbers but something like 350-400whp max which turbo and manifold you guys suggest keeping spooling upto minimum. A shop here is selling Tomei bolt on turbo not sure how good they are?
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Hey guys, As some of you might have seen I sold my current setup as was planning for NA RB setup preferably 26 head with ITBs. I found a way around it to work but yesterday got another option and need some help in working out the compression on it.
My friend is selling a new RB26 N1 block, N1 crank, Nitto forged piston, Rods, Crank studs, bearing etc. In short a nice new block ready to be used. I also have a stock RB26 head with intake manifold and stock ITBs but without turbos.
Details of pistons are they are 8.5 : 1 (picture attached)
Now my question is is there any way, I can shave the head to get the compression to around 10.5 to 11 and run this engine just on ITBs, really want to have a NA RB26 running on ITBs. I am not good in calculating compression but have seen people working it out. First preference is just to shave head and which gasket size should be used and if compression cant be achieved only by head shaving then how much should the block should be shaved (though will prefer not to shave the block)
I would like to do that for a while then when have more funds (or doesn't like NA setup) change the head and install a single turbo.
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Not stock definately will modify it. Atleast an aftermarket turbo and some block work if it needs it as engine looks really clean low mileage one.
I just don't want to get stuck finding parts for it
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Seems like good news then if someone can reconfirm I will go right now and pick it up.
Will getting modification parts would be a problem or the turbo?
The shop guy said its 1998 but no one trust them here
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Its difficult to source SR20 here in Dubai.
Found this in one salvage shop yesterday, but said he has sold the turbo manifold along with turbo before. Seems like a clean one but can anyone identify which one is this?
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I did contact them but minimum package he showed me was around 10k then shipping on top of that.
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hell do a custom build for you
thanks will check with him, any idea whats the best can be achieved in around 5k?
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I am planning tobuy a complete engine off him, but does he sell anything which can push around 220-250hp rather then normal ones? sorry not good with L series engines
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Some work done in past few weeksChanged the coils, plugs (thought plugs were changed in previous workshop), installed GPS module for the autometer speedo as had problem in getting signal from the gearbox and also installed the autometer fuel center unit.Plugs, no idea how the car was running and even tuned on these, I did ask the workshop when installing other things to change it got back to them and they said politely ohh we forgotGot NGK BCPR7ES aka 3330Old fuel sender which came with surge tank outWas broken thats why gauge always showed FULLAutometer one height adjusted and there it goes inAutometer GPS speedo interface, peace of mind now accurate reading regardless of tire/diff sizesSplitfire coils for NeoTime for these to go outOld vs NewDonePlugged and ready to fireTook the car to a local meet and did shoot with some 350z and 370zBurj Khalifa (tallest tower in the background
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Very nice built
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Any update from you guys
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As for the AC. I was planning on building a bracket that would mount where the PS pump was and trying to fit the AC pump there, but I'm not sure now much room there will be, or if it'll need much support on the back end of the pump. it's just ideas. I want AC tho, it's hot in NM. the other idea is to leave the pump in it's stock location and extend the steering linkage with extra U joint. I'm using the ones off a 350z steering column.
I am really looking forward to this info, as really in between VQ or RB(NA) swap right now and have both engine lying but dont want to do without AC
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Very nice thread
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Nice built, subscribing.
Just want to know to the guys who did VQ swap, is it necessary to remove the AC compressor for S30 chassis or there is a way you can leave it there.
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Crank and Pistons feature of the Z
http://www.crankandpiston.com/on-the-road/1972-datsun-s30-rb-z-al-ain-uae/
More and wallpaper shots on the website -
James Davidson from Crank and Pistons came down to do a full feature on my recently done 240z Project, some awesome pictures on their website
Feature link:
http://www.crankandpiston.com/on-the-road/1972-datsun-s30-rb-z-al-ain-uae/
Some pictures I took from there, more there
Let me know how you like the feature, some more on the way:tup: -
Are there no race shops in Dubai? I would try and find one and then give them the specifications that you want and tell them to try and hit them. You'll need adjustable suspension to do anything though. With a stock Z the only adjustment is front toe, and maybe shimming a tiny bit of caster.
Hey John, couldnt find any shop who can sort it out on its own, they reply more on the data in the machine to start with. So how do usually guys measure from scratch the camber and caster? in my last attempt they read it on basis of 73 skyline kenmeri as thats the only datsun or nissan they had in their system.
I have coilovers (done by yourself) and TTT camber and traction arms so there is room to play around. But then in last attempt couldnt move the front camber mor eon negative side then -1.1 in the front toe arms came out
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The problem Im getting here is the shops they dont have the OEM car specs in their system so they just deny to even check the alignment, whats the suggestion in this case?
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Lots of work has been done, changed the brake booster, custom fitted one from some Mitsubishi pickup, fitted nicely on 1" willwood brake master cylinder. Sorted out the gear mounts and downpipe, some dropping in the front on right side it bottom out already seems like fenders flares might not be installed properly or some other issue.
Installed custom door sills
JAF and a tricky JNC (courtesy to Toolz)
PMC-S, Prince motor-sports some might not feel this on a Z but I love it
One more along with JNC
PMC-S inside on console
Speedcorner
Last found an old one lying around perfect!
Exhaust all sorted
Almost final height, already bottom out in front right side
Left front side seems a bit more lowered but its more to do with the way flares are installed
Next up is changing the downpipe this week ,then installing coils on weekend a do the final tune along sorting out AC ducting.
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Its with RB25DET NEO details are there in my thread
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Here is mine still little things to be sorted but almost ready and driven
what year SR20det is this
in Nissan 4 Cyl Forum
Posted · Edited by docaam
This one might get it for 350$ to 400$