RTz

Oddman, The Motorsport motor is nice in NA trim, but not necessarily the holly grail in boosted form. Many FI enthusiasts prefer the non-M motors (M50, M52, etc.) and these are much more affordable. They share the same footprint (so, we know they fit) and a reliable 500HP is almost child's play.

Thanks Leon! My stock headlights were not cutting it. Old wiring, old technology, and about 10K miles a year are driven at night, much of it in unlit rural areas with many critters large enough to turn and old Datsun into scrap. Tony D has been beating the drum for John at H4lights.com, so I gave him a call. Fun guy to talk to, and definitely knows a thing or two about lighting. John steered me to a special he is currently running... Bosch E-Code lenses with NARVA XB3 bulbs, $105.00 shipped, for the pair. Couldn't pass that one up. They are not in the same league as a high-end HID light, but they are more than decent. My daily driver is a '98 M3, and these do a respectable job of competing with the Bimmer. Great budget oriented option. The shifter throws were too long for my preference and the integral rubber isolator was too... uh... rubbery. I want to feel the engagement of the gearset, not avoid it. I tore the lever apart, off'd the rubber bits, and shortened it. It shifts sooooo much nicer. Very crisp and direct. Enough so, that I will likely do something similar to my M. The S52 has a slight buzz around 3000 RPM. It's shows up with this conversion and it's faintly there with my stock M3. Unfortunately that correlates directly with highway cruise speed. The poly mounts are not helping with this so I ordered/installed a set of heavy duty rubber mounts from Bimmerworld. I like 'em. They removed a good amount of tingle, but they are still rigid enough to keep the motor from moving around excessively. Another effort to help with civility, was an exhaust mod. Three Magnaflow's were not enough. The drone and drumming with ordinary driving was positively obnoxious. Long story short, I built a muffler to replace one of the Magnaflows. It is/was an experiment so I didn't make any effort to take progress pictures. I just wanted it done, ya know? I did model it up prior to fab and it's very close to the final result... Not a fully inclusive answer but it did make the car significantly more livable. It's still plenty loud, but no longer intolerably so. I'm looking forward to tomorrow's commute, and this is the first time I've felt that way since this conversion. I've got a failing half-shaft. It's been sniveling for a while now... 'prolly ought to see to it before I regret it.

Are the pictures coming in for you guy's now?

BRAAP and I went Friday night. It's a silly silly movie, but we knew that going in. It's ridiculous... and that's part of the entertainment. If you're expecting depth, you're barking up the wrong cinematics. 'Wings & stuff' happened long before the F&F franchise sprouted. F&F just capitalized on it. Due respect and all, I must admit I had a passing crush on Elsa Pataky. SHhhhh.... don't tell my wife.

I understand. But I would ask, why the need for a 5/8" supply?

Rule of thumb is to size the supply line to the fueling requirements of the engine, and size the return to the flow capacity of the pump. Said another way... the return would always be at least the size of the supply, and often larger.

Thanks Owen!

Very very happy with the tach. If I had to complain, I'd like a dim-able feature... they are slightly under-lit at dusk, and slightly over-lit (or maybe just glarey with the polished bezel) at night. I see on other forums that some people disable the needle lighting to combat this. Haven't tried it myself, though. The speedo serves this particular swap well, but it ain't perfect. I spend a fair bit of time on mountainous, densely forested roads and the GPS isn't sparkling in those scenarios. Anything from 'zero' reading to a wavy needle. It looks like it never reads high, but can read low with a compromised signal. What I would like to see (and aviation GPS's provide) is some type of unobtrusive 'flag' that let's you know it might be compromised. All in all though, it was a direct, simple, functional (for my purposes) solution and I would buy it again without a flinch.

Hi Brian, glad to see you're still kicking! Let me know if this weekend works for you. Clint and his car will be here Saturday sometime, so my wife is already expecting a certain amount of Z-time to overshadow the weekend. Bring your wife along and we'll make a day of it? Backing up a bit, I've been tuning this car with a speed density program (MAP + RPM). I've run into some headaches with it, partially due to the pulsations in the plenum at elevated RPM's. I think it can be worked out, but I decided to take a poke at Alpha-N (TPS + RPM) for giggles. It's not without it's faults, but it did solve my high RPM inconsistencies. My point is, I just started messing with it experimentally, haven't had time to refine the tune, and the peer pressure of an audio clip was overwhelming So... the video below is conservative... AFR's averaging about 11.5:1, VANOS not on line (in low RPM mode), and a mild timing map. 2nd and 3rd gear pull, shutting down just shy of 90... The exhaust is ear piercingly loud at high RPM/Load. It's downright unbearable. I've gotta stop complaining about it and DO something before it puts me in the funny farm. P.S. No pedestrians, cars, dogs, livestock, iguanas, or insects were harmed or endangered during the making of said video.

Paul, Thank you, and thanks again for providing the S52 on the cheap. That was the shove I needed to roll the dice. Thomas, I'm sure something can be arranged. Next weekend may work out... ping me later in the week. RE: Video's... I'll try to put something up once we get some decent weather.

Dig through Mortensens FAQ's. Not sure if he covered sources or not, but that's where I'd start. Mine came from purchasing a comp. LSD center section, and that's how most of the people I know end up with them.

25 PSI is reasonable at idle, assuming a stock engine (camshafts and tuning will influence manifold vacuum which will influence a fuel pressure regulator). Fuel pressure should be 36ish at WOT, which is close to what you said in your first post.

It's supposed to be lower with the vac. line connected. The purpose of vac. reference is to maintain RELATIVE fuel pressure. Abridged edition: If your manifold generated 5 PSI of vacuum, then you would need 5 PSI less fuel pressure to maintain the same relative fuel pressure, yes?

Every user has a warn status. Your status is only visible to you and the staff.

Defector! Probably the most entertaining car I've ever owned...

Precisely why there is no need for you to take offense.

Easy there big fella. Drax was referring to post 8. You asked for opinions and that's what you're getting.

I've never looked into modern HVAC controls. How much trouble are they to adapt (in terms of control, not fitment)?

http://www.superbrightleds.com/ I can't speak first hand of the quality of those particular bulb replacements, but I have purchased other LED's from them and have no complaints.

You've got me curious, why 3?

You lost me on that one. Are you saying you ran smaller than 3/8" on the INLET of the pump with the turbo L? I don't believe vertical or horizontal is of real world consequence. As Nigel said, it's about head pressure. If we had a choice, we would mount our pumps 40' below the tank As an anecdote, the tank I was referring to wouldn't spit sediment. What you saw was a slightly blue tint in the fuel leaving the tank. You could drive the car normally for 5 to 15 minutes, the pump would become steadily noisier, then the engine would begin to run lean under load. Let the car sit for a while, and it would return to 'normal'.

Where I was going with my questioning is this... A pump that cavities will experience reduced performance, reduced life, and make more noise. Keeping that in mind... 3/8" on the outlet is realistic, but 3/8" on the inlet would make me nervous. Couple examples: The stock '75 EFI supply line is roughly 15/32", and it's only good to about 250 HP. My Bosch 044 pump has an 18mm inlet. EFI pumps do a great job of pushing, but they are wimps when it comes to pulling. You want as little restriction as practical on the suction side. Which leads to... 40 micron is smaller than I would suggest running on the inlet (too much restriction, in my opinion). 100 micron is probably more appropriate. The reason I asked this is because you would normally want 'course' filtering on the inlet of the pump to protect it and to avoid cavitation, but you would also want something 'finer' after the pump to protect the injectors. I don't believe it's reasonable to expect one filter to do the whole job. Sounds like you're in the ball park. Just make sure the pump isn't sucking the fuel uphill any more than necessary. The 280 tank is much better suited I was concerned that you might be trying to use the 240 tank. RE: Tank coating... I have seen it de-laminate and plug the pick-up on a 280 tank. It happens.

I find the 255 to be a little on the loud side, comparatively, but it sounds like you might have something else going on. A few things come to mind... 1) The 3/8 feed line seems smallish. 2) What micron is the filter (between the tank and pump)? 3) I didn't notice you mention a filter between the pump and rails. Did I miss it? 4) How high is the pump mounted, relative to the tank? 5) What tank (240 or 280?) and is the supply line (to the filter) unmodified? P.S. The Aeromotive FPR has a reputation of not holding pressure. I don't like it, and don't agree with the arguments, but it's common. Also, regardless of the FPR, the system WON'T hold pressure if there is no functioning check valve, and I don't believe the 255 comes with one.

You're running into the same brick wall most of us do... ain't no such thing as a cheap Datsun LSD. A few guy's are in the right place/right time, but generally, you gotta pay to play. RE: VLSD. I refuse to put one in my car. It's a dead horse, but that's my opinion and I'm entitled to it For what you're building, I'd stay away from 2 spider gear R180's. The 4 gear variant is damn tough, though. Tough enough for 350+ft/lb street cars.

I did that to a Chev. starter once. Worked perfectly for about 25K miles. Eventually parted it out. Don't know how much longer it would have lasted.