Jump to content
HybridZ

RTz

Administrators
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2941

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    23

 Content Type 

Posts posted by RTz

    Minimum fuel level on 280Z?

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    Now, it's possible that 3gal is still under the pickup point but I wanted to verify before I start pulling more bits off the car tomorrow.

     

    Nope, 3 gal. is plenty. The only time I've seen this type of behavior is a plugged tank.

     

    Here's a recent example...

     

    PluggedTank.jpg

     

    Notice the circled areas. No water coming from the fuel supply nipple. In this case, the owner had the tank cleaned and coated. The coating failed and clogged up the pick up tube.

    A few ?'s about turbo swap to 240z

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    Only "Sensors" you really need are;

    o2

    AFM

    Head temp

    Water temp

    TPS (which really only works at idle to bring the timing at a good spot to idle.)

     

     

    I assume you're talking about a factory turbo ECU? If so, there is no water temp sensor, the TPS does more than you suggest, and a CAS sensor is mandatory.

    A few ?'s about turbo swap to 240z

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    Stock fuel injectors are $35 a piece and are a borg warner race series injector.

     

    Stock what? L24E? L28E? L28ET?

     

    Common injector calculators will tell you... L28E injectors, @ 40psi, will run 80% duty cycle at around 150hp, L28ET injectors will run 80% duty around 210hp. In practice, we usually get a bit more out of them. Many people run a lot closer to the edge. Only you can decide how reasonable that is.

     

     

    I keep reading about the gas tank and how you have to get the one from a fuel injected vehicle. Is this true?

     

     

    Have to? Nope. It would be wise to do something though. Picking up an air pocket under boost is bad. Very bad. There are many choices. Spend some time searching for "surge tank" or "swirl pot". Lots of good info on this forum.

     

     

    Is there any other major components that anyone can think of that I should know? Flywheel, clutch, engine parts,etc...

     

     

    There is LOTS to know about turbocharged engines and related components. For some, it's a life long study. There are no 'get smart quick' books (or forums). Read. Read. Read. Read everything you can get your hands on.

     

     

    As far as the head, Motorsport Auto told me that the P90 will work in place of a P90a and they said it was better because they have a wider range of parts available for the P90, is this true?

     

     

    I'd guess they're speaking mostly of aftermarket cams. Last I checked, they had nothing for the hydraulic head. So, if you want a different cam, a mechanical head is probably going to be your best bet. Better yet, ask THEM what they mean by "wider range of parts".

     

    One more thing, Motorsport Auto Also said that I need to have the Air regulator hooked up or the car won't idle.

     

     

    If that's exactly what they said, they are dead wrong. The purpose of the air reg. is to provide a fast idle when the engine is cold. Once warm, the air reg. does absolutely nothing.

     

     

    This is the unit at the front of the intake manifold with the electrical plug. Every setup I see online, does not have this hooked up or even anywhere to be found. Do i need this or can I get around it somehow?

     

     

    They can be bypassed very easily. The consequence is a cold idle problem.

     

    There is much discussion on this forum about all your questions. It takes time to learn the answers. There is no shortcut. Search and read. Search and read.

    LT1 gas mileage

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted · Edited by RTz

    But it sounds like you may have some issues.

     

    Definitely. 14mpg is pointing to a problem.

     

    I'll echo deja's suggestions. Also, what kind of shape are the O2's? Do you know that you're not running in limp home mode? All tune-up related items addressed? Have you done a leakdown on your motor? How are you measuring your mileage (ie odometer correct, etc)?

    Spicy JELLY!

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    John,

    I need a fix! I took my jar of jam down to Medford for the holidays and forgot it there in my father-in-laws fridge! :shock: It wont go to waste there, but I don't have any now... :oops:

     

     

    Because I'm such a saint, and I see a friend in 'need', I decide to 'loan' BUURP my jar of frugally savored jam. Less than two day's later I go retrieve it... and it's 3/4 gone! Fokker.

     

    Got any for sale, Mongo?

    intake manifold clean up - info

    in S130 Series - 280ZX

    Posted

    Carbon Canister (surrounding area will smell like gas after you shut it down hot, gas fumes in the engine compartment). No performance benefit.

    EGR Vacuum line - this will shut off the EGR permanently. You can also remove the EGR entirely, but you must make a block-off plate. No performance benefit.

    Injector cooling fan - you probably did this already. No performance benefit.

    TPS - throttle position switch. May cause idling or WOT issues.

    AAR - you will have a slow idle when cold, may stall out. No performance benefit.

    Idle speed adjustment - see above. No performance benefit.

    PCV system - underhood will smell like blowby if you have any. No performance benefit.

    BCDD lines - actually removing unit may require taking manifold off and making block off plate, not sure. No performance benefit.

    Ported vacuum system, including TVV and all lines. Move distributor line to manifold vacuum. Adjust base timing accordingly, remove 12V advance if desired. No real performance benefit.

    Coolant lines that run to the AAR and throttle body.

    Cold Start Valve - May cause extremely cold starting problems. No performance benefit.

     

    Nice list. Just keep in mind, while the list suggests "no performance benefit" there may be a performance detriment, depending on your idea of performance.

     

    Defeating a properly functioning canister may cause your car to pollute more while the engine is OFF than most new cars pollute driving down the highway. Defeating a properly functioning PCV system may reduce the lifespan of your engine. Defeating a properly functioning EGR system may increase combustion temps under cruise conditions. Etc, etc, etc.

     

    The point is, if you're going to remove that stuff, it would seem prudent to understand it's purpose before doing so.

     

    Remember this forum is not a substitute for the FSM

     

     

    :cheers:

    Where are people mounting ECUs in S30s (not 280Zs)

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted · Edited by RTz

    I knew this guy once, who attempted to install an Electromotive EMS in a well cared for S130. He eventually gave up on trying to get it to run and brought it to me. He still had a number of unfinished details, like mounting the ECU. The EFI harness came through the firewall in the sock location, but the ECU was still sitting on the floor pan... the low point. The car sat outside for a while. Rain water collected on the unwrapped harness via the hood vent, followed gravity as its told to do, and came to a rest in the ECU connector. The car was delivered to me, dry of course. After checking the basics, I could get no life out of the unit. I pulled the ECU connector, and this very pretty, brand new ECU, was nothing but pure corrosion inside.

     

    Moral of the story, don't make the ECU the low point.

     

    Very few installations will completely prevent ALL water over many years of rain, under hood washing, etc. If the ECU is mounted low (in the stock location, for example), I put a 'droop' in the harness creating a trap of sorts.

     

    Most of my installs have been OE location or in the glovebox.

×
×
  • Create New...