RTz

1 fast z, Just thought you should know the coward hiding behind the username "thatzguy" is Justin Hodges (280ZForce).

Justin Hodges, time for you to stop being an ass. You've been banned from this forum permanently. Take a hike.

Filter was my first thought

No. Mine is bigger!

Scale Deltic, you say? Took these at the 2001 PRIME show in Eugene. 18 cylinders, and 3 cranks... Forgive me for the thread jack... it's Tony's fault

Unless I'm forgetting something about the studs, it should be fairly intuitive... longer studs go where they pass through the cam towers, shorter studs where they don't.

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It was 13 years ago when I cleaned up that manifold. I used it because it's what I had

Welcome to the staff!

Or you could Hybridize your car with something a little more modern

Well... the earliest Z's are 40 years old now.

I spent some time with a tape and the mock up car. The conclusion is that it would take either a large amount of work to the chassis, or large amount of work to the subframe, or some combination of both. Briefly, the subframe is too long (front to back) and a little too tall. Also, the spring/shock location would require pretty extensive reinforcement to the unibody. As with anything, it could be made to fit, but I think there are easier way's to get what I want.

Replaced the motor mounts with S30 parts and aluminum spacers. Not a permanent fix but they'll do until I find something that tickles me. In the meantime, the car drives MUCH better. From an NVH perspective, the only time they're noticeable is at idle. A little more of a resonant growl, but nothing I'm not happy to live with. The more I drive the car, the more I'm liking the front end, and the more I'm disliking the rear. I'll be parking Bart before long... time to start making some decisions. A few months back, a friend donated the back half of a Dime. Tipped up, it's in the perfect position for head scratching... Neal (the gent that I bought the SR from) had a 1st Gen. MX5 rear suspension sitting on his garage floor and offered to let me put a tape on it... These two are a little akward. There wasn't room to get 'straight on' pictures, but I think you'll get the idea... A couple misc. pictures... I've been interested in this suspension for a few reasons... Common/affordable Successful track history with DD friendly-ness Adjustable Tough enough for V8 applications Track width proportionate to the BMW front suspension Same wheel bolt pattern as the BMW front suspension Adequate disc brakes with upgrades readily available Factory available LSD's (both Viscous and Torsen) with complimentary diff ratios. Self-contained subframe construction BUT... at a glance, it's not looking like it will fit without some fairly invasive modifications to the Dime. I'll sleep on it and take another look this weekend.

Your answer lies in post #4.... Those "fracture points" become 'no factor' if the rotor is not thermally taxed, as is the case of the VW rotors I posted pictures of.

Welcome to the staff!

His budget could only afford so many holes

Exactly. Have a look at any modern sport bike. Same reason. About 7 or 8 years ago, I drilled this rear set for a fellow autocrosser with a DAMN fast Rabbit. Last we talked, rotors were still in good shape. It was done for weight and weight alone.

One of our members has converted his SU's to Throttle Body Injection... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=136397 Another member is using the SU manifolds with 280ZXT throttles (could use SU's) for Multiport Injection... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124201 Regarding MAF... It may not be worth the expense and trouble to use a MAF sensor. Most people will be happy with a MAP sensor providing the load data.

Bump.

This should give you an idea of how much higher and inboard (to miss the hood) you'll have to be to clear an L series... That bracket shape puts everything very very close. Not much fudge room left.

Both channels are configurable and can output two WB's, two NB's, a combination of the two, or even custom curves.

Way to go Austin!