RTz
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Posts posted by RTz
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LOGIC....where did it all go?
Same place your shift key went. Please start posting with respect to our rules.
5. This site is based in the USA, and as such, text is to be written in English. There are web sites available on the web that can translate text from many recognized official languages to English, if you don't know it. (But then how could you read this? ) Gangster-slang, or any other cute, obtuse, street-talk dialects are not tolerated. Write in clear English that does not require a current knowledge of the latest street-slang. Text message or IM shorthand does not qualify as English. Always try to use proper punctuation, spelling AND capitalization.
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don't ya think you may have over baffled it? I mean, there's no way fuel is gonna leave that thing under acceleration or turning...but won't it have a bit of trouble getting back into it?
I don't *think* so. Can't prove it yet though
As far as fuel entry, I'm way over sized compared to many OEM's. Take a look at the single small inlet in this BWM E36 sump (it's only about 1/2" tall)...
If you start tearing apart factory cars, you'll see this is pretty common.
One car I discovered that uses a similar principle is a Honda S2000...
It's proportionally different, but it still makes use of the same method of trapping... four "C" shapes, aligned 90 degrees to each other, with a (nearly) full height corner inlet.
Or do you have that baffle box sitting lower than everything else? Or am I just getting way too caught up in what might happen with crazy low fuel levels?It is at the bottom of the tank, flush with the floor. As far as "crazy low fuel", about the only way to run reliably with truly low fuel levels is by incorporating a surge tank or swirl pot. I just didn't want the complexity of two pumps and their plumbing. If I achieve modern OEM function and simplicity, I'll be happy.
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I decided to abandon the surge tank, and go with an in-tank pump/sump.
Part 1:
Bosch 044 pump, -8 filter sock, and check valve with -6 outlet. Return is also -6...
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... but I still hold on to the idea that fast drag cars don't squat and may even lift up a little in the rear.
That is largely the result of torque reaction. Live axle+geometry. Something an IRS car isn't able to make efficient use of.
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Many people have/do run the the N/A trans with no serious trouble.
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She's beautiful!
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Stuck/pinned/glued.
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The beauty of HybridZ is that there usually is no consensus (heck look at the differences between the V8, RBxx, turbo and NA groups alone!). When we all come together, we offer different perspectives from different styles of car-building, and through our collective brain-storming, we equip each other with enough experience and know-how for the thread-starter to figure out how they want to proceed. You obviously can't agree with everything that we've posted on your thread.
Someone get this man a cigar.
Which brings up the question. MSA strongly recommends all new guts for the head when replacing the cam. Is this necessary and are there less costly solutions than buying from MSA?
L-series head building has been covered pretty extensively. Snuggle up to the search engine. You'll find member BRAAP has contributed quite a lot of useful information.
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I can think of several Ferrari's I'd rather have.
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Nice homebrew on the clutch MC
For clarification, are you saying the dimension illustrated below is 32cm?...
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Very cool. Between you and Kato, I just might have to put AUS on my itinerary
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No worries, your post is more instructive anyway.
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Then I turned on the ignition so I could check the voltage and figure out which wire I should connect to the megasquirt...but both wires were testing at 13V...I don't know what's going on here...
That is normal.
I guess I should take a look at the wiring diagram but that things a pain in the ass to look at. Does anybody know how I determine which wire to hook to the megasquirt?Yes. Yes, you should. It's not that tough, honest.
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That works.
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Mario is correct.
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If you aren't comfortable with computers and have no desire to learn, I'd recommend staying away from Megasquirt.
If you want to avoid computers altogether, the HPV-1, or SDS EFI will do the trick. Spend some time googling those two.
Some of the aftermarket EFI systems are dead easy to use (in terms of the interface) and most any system these day's can run DIS. Some of them play well with the L28ET distributor (for an engine position sensor), making it nearly a bolt on. Here is one example, with GM coils...
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Oh if that would solve Alex's problems. Alex has been griping about his neighbors here for as long as I can remember. And he has moved a few times since. This is a recurring theme. Remember guys, we've only hearing one side of the story.
(All in good humor ribbing. Still, Alex, just so you know, there are no places available for rent in Rio)
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The simplified answer: You need an engine position sensor (many types/kinds), a means of processing it (many methods), and of course the actual coils (lots of potential choices). That's the minimum.
One example, Megasquirt with the right code, used with a Ford EDIS module & trigger, and matching coil pack. This is one of the least expensive paths.
Another example would be an Electromotive HPV-1.
There are many many ways to 'get there'. Depending on you're priorities, skills, and budget, it can be fairly simple or quite involved. If you can give us an idea of what you're after, I'm sure the list can be parsed down to something less daunting.
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Shifter bushing gone would be my guess.
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When posting pictures, please be considerate of other members.
Overly large pictures are often not necessary, and can be taxing for many members internet accessibility.
If a hi-res picture is necessary to deliver your message, please feel free to post it (a size warning in your subject title will be appreciated by most). If a smaller picture will do the job, please reduce the size.
In short, please post picture sizes appropriate for the discussion.
Thanks,
Staff
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Yes, the sleeves commonly available for 280Z's are thinner walled. The set I have here, that came from Ground Control, measure approx. 2.206" ID. If I remember correctly, they could be a smidge smaller and still fit over the tubes.
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The stock EFI can handle that combination pretty well (if you stick with a stock cam)... but that compression ratio is just asking for trouble on pump gas.
rt260, BMW M Powered
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
The filter is roughly 3/8" tall. It has framework inside to keep from collapsing. The springs are holding the pump down against the framework (of the filter).
The purpose of the spring mounting is to reduce contact area in effort to reduce noise. I could have machined a clamp on bracket with a Viton isolator, but I'm hoping this is a little quieter. I've got a 50/50 chance.... either it is or it isn't