RTz
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Posts posted by RTz
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BRAAP and I went Friday night. It's a silly silly movie, but we knew that going in. It's ridiculous... and that's part of the entertainment. If you're expecting depth, you're barking up the wrong cinematics.
All of sudden every ricer had a fart can and a wing on their car.
'Wings & stuff' happened long before the F&F franchise sprouted. F&F just capitalized on it.
Best character is The Rocks (Dwayne Johnson for everyone who never watched WWF/WWE)
Due respect and all, I must admit I had a passing crush on Elsa Pataky. SHhhhh.... don't tell my wife.
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I understand. But I would ask, why the need for a 5/8" supply?
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The tubing is 316L 5/8" (feed) and 1/2" (return) .035 wall.
Rule of thumb is to size the supply line to the fueling requirements of the engine, and size the return to the flow capacity of the pump. Said another way... the return would always be at least the size of the supply, and often larger.
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Thanks Owen!
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How do you like the Speedhut's?
Very very happy with the tach. If I had to complain, I'd like a dim-able feature... they are slightly under-lit at dusk, and slightly over-lit (or maybe just glarey with the polished bezel) at night. I see on other forums that some people disable the needle lighting to combat this. Haven't tried it myself, though.
The speedo serves this particular swap well, but it ain't perfect. I spend a fair bit of time on mountainous, densely forested roads and the GPS isn't sparkling in those scenarios. Anything from 'zero' reading to a wavy needle. It looks like it never reads high, but can read low with a compromised signal. What I would like to see (and aviation GPS's provide) is some type of unobtrusive 'flag' that let's you know it might be compromised. All in all though, it was a direct, simple, functional (for my purposes) solution and I would buy it again without a flinch.
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Hi Brian, glad to see you're still kicking! Let me know if this weekend works for you. Clint and his car will be here Saturday sometime, so my wife is already expecting a certain amount of Z-time to overshadow the weekend. Bring your wife along and we'll make a day of it?
Backing up a bit, I've been tuning this car with a speed density program (MAP + RPM). I've run into some headaches with it, partially due to the pulsations in the plenum at elevated RPM's. I think it can be worked out, but I decided to take a poke at Alpha-N (TPS + RPM) for giggles. It's not without it's faults, but it did solve my high RPM inconsistencies. My point is, I just started messing with it experimentally, haven't had time to refine the tune, and the peer pressure of an audio clip was overwhelming
So... the video below is conservative... AFR's averaging about 11.5:1, VANOS not on line (in low RPM mode), and a mild timing map. 2nd and 3rd gear pull, shutting down just shy of 90...
The exhaust is ear piercingly loud at high RPM/Load. It's downright unbearable. I've gotta stop complaining about it and DO something before it puts me in the funny farm.
P.S. No pedestrians, cars, dogs, livestock, iguanas, or insects were harmed or endangered during the making of said video.
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Paul, Thank you, and thanks again for providing the S52 on the cheap. That was the shove I needed to roll the dice.
Thomas, I'm sure something can be arranged. Next weekend may work out... ping me later in the week.
RE: Video's... I'll try to put something up once we get some decent weather.
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Dig through Mortensens FAQ's. Not sure if he covered sources or not, but that's where I'd start. Mine came from purchasing a comp. LSD center section, and that's how most of the people I know end up with them.
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25 PSI is reasonable at idle, assuming a stock engine (camshafts and tuning will influence manifold vacuum which will influence a fuel pressure regulator). Fuel pressure should be 36ish at WOT, which is close to what you said in your first post.
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It's supposed to be lower with the vac. line connected. The purpose of vac. reference is to maintain RELATIVE fuel pressure.
Abridged edition: If your manifold generated 5 PSI of vacuum, then you would need 5 PSI less fuel pressure to maintain the same relative fuel pressure, yes?
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Every user has a warn status. Your status is only visible to you and the staff.
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E21. It's like a prettier (IMO), lighter, smaller E30. I want one bad right now...
Defector!
Probably the most entertaining car I've ever owned...
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Ron - I understand - that wasn't my post though
Precisely why there is no need for you to take offense.
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I didn't tell anyone "just deal with the USPS yourself" - not sure how you jumped to that conclusion!
Easy there big fella. Drax was referring to post 8.
You asked for opinions and that's what you're getting.
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After that I purchased a Mitsubishi Diamante / EVO5 climatre controller, along with a Nissan Activa vent fascia out of California, these arrived a day ago and I started the remodelling of the Zed fascia, see pics attached.
I've never looked into modern HVAC controls. How much trouble are they to adapt (in terms of control, not fitment)?
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http://www.superbrightleds.com/
I can't speak first hand of the quality of those particular bulb replacements, but I have purchased other LED's from them and have no complaints.
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I've installed 3 Walbro's in my car.
You've got me curious, why 3?
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Hopefully it's good - I was using the stock fuel lines with my previous turbo L motor which made 365 rwhp and given that the 3/8" line is larger I was under the impression it was good - I'll do some more research on that...
You lost me on that one. Are you saying you ran smaller than 3/8" on the INLET of the pump with the turbo L?
I have it mounted vertically, any thoughts if mounting it horizontally (and as low as possible) would have any effect? Being that the suction side is level with the outlet on the tank with it's current mounting I thought that would be optimal, but I could be wrong
I don't believe vertical or horizontal is of real world consequence. As Nigel said, it's about head pressure. If we had a choice, we would mount our pumps 40' below the tank
I'm also wondering about this - my only solace is that I saw no signs of sediment or anything concerning in the fuel when I drained the tank - I started with a nice fresh tank of gas - but certainly something I'll have to keep an eye on...As an anecdote, the tank I was referring to wouldn't spit sediment. What you saw was a slightly blue tint in the fuel leaving the tank. You could drive the car normally for 5 to 15 minutes, the pump would become steadily noisier, then the engine would begin to run lean under load. Let the car sit for a while, and it would return to 'normal'.
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Where I was going with my questioning is this... A pump that cavities will experience reduced performance, reduced life, and make more noise. Keeping that in mind...
1) The 3/8 feed line seems smallish.
I was under the impression that this was the recommended size for typical stock Z car LS1 installs??
3/8" on the outlet is realistic, but 3/8" on the inlet would make me nervous. Couple examples: The stock '75 EFI supply line is roughly 15/32", and it's only good to about 250 HP. My Bosch 044 pump has an 18mm inlet. EFI pumps do a great job of pushing, but they are wimps when it comes to pulling. You want as little restriction as practical on the suction side. Which leads to...
2) What micron is the filter (between the tank and pump)?100 Microns -6AN - standard Summit inline filter (new) - here's a link - it "might" be 40 Microns as indicated at this link - I will crawl under it tomorrow and reverify - also I'll try taking out the filter and let it free flow to see what happens
40 micron is smaller than I would suggest running on the inlet (too much restriction, in my opinion). 100 micron is probably more appropriate.
3) I didn't notice you mention a filter between the pump and rails. Did I miss it?Currently I do not have a filter between the pump and the rails
The reason I asked this is because you would normally want 'course' filtering on the inlet of the pump to protect it and to avoid cavitation, but you would also want something 'finer' after the pump to protect the injectors. I don't believe it's reasonable to expect one filter to do the whole job.
4) How high is the pump mounted, relative to the tank?The pump is mounted (mounted to the stock 280z fuel pump mounting points with a custom mount that I fabbed) kinda high with the suction on the bottom with a very short run to the tank and the outlet on the top -
Sounds like you're in the ball park. Just make sure the pump isn't sucking the fuel uphill any more than necessary.
5) What tank (240 or 280?) and is the supply line (to the filter) unmodified?I'm running the stock 1975 280Z tank that has been refurbished - the feed line is attached to the larger fitting that comes out of the tank, the return is hooked up to the smaller of the 2. The tank is unmodified except for the refurbishing - possibly some of the internal coating from the refurbishing could be clogging it??
The 280 tank is much better suited
I was concerned that you might be trying to use the 240 tank. RE: Tank coating... I have seen it de-laminate and plug the pick-up on a 280 tank. It happens.-
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I find the 255 to be a little on the loud side, comparatively, but it sounds like you might have something else going on. A few things come to mind...
1) The 3/8 feed line seems smallish.
2) What micron is the filter (between the tank and pump)?
3) I didn't notice you mention a filter between the pump and rails. Did I miss it?
4) How high is the pump mounted, relative to the tank?
5) What tank (240 or 280?) and is the supply line (to the filter) unmodified?
P.S. The Aeromotive FPR has a reputation of not holding pressure. I don't like it, and don't agree with the arguments, but it's common. Also, regardless of the FPR, the system WON'T hold pressure if there is no functioning check valve, and I don't believe the 255 comes with one.
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Also, seeing as the word is definitly out about the Subaru lsd's, and are about as rare as hen's teeth in a picknpull, is there a good place to find them for not an outrageous price?
You're running into the same brick wall most of us do... ain't no such thing as a cheap Datsun LSD. A few guy's are in the right place/right time, but generally, you gotta pay to play.
RE: VLSD. I refuse to put one in my car. It's a dead horse, but that's my opinion and I'm entitled to it
For what you're building, I'd stay away from 2 spider gear R180's. The 4 gear variant is damn tough, though. Tough enough for 350+ft/lb street cars.
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Anyway, I bit the bullet and fired it up, she works fine! So we'll see how long it lasts. I didnt even have to shim the starter.
I did that to a Chev. starter once. Worked perfectly for about 25K miles. Eventually parted it out. Don't know how much longer it would have lasted.
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In terms of 'how', it's pretty straight forward. A Wolf3D EMS drives the 6 GM coils directly (no ignitor needed). Wire up one channel per coil. The L28ET sensor is wired directly to Wolf's trigger input, with one additional hole added, making the disc a 6+1 wheel. KTM covered this fairly well here... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/59666-wolf-v500-ems-installation-guide/
Coil bracket, part numbers, and schematic here... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/61802-l6-dis-brackets-lsx-coils-now-available/page__p__570261__hl__dis__fromsearch__1#entry570261
Many standalone EMS's will do this, including Motec, Haltech, Vi-Pec, etc.
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sticky280zx and turboHLS30, You've both been suspended for 30 day's. Next time it's permanent.
I was concerned that you might be trying to use the 240 tank. RE: Tank coating... I have seen it de-laminate and plug the pick-up on a 280 tank. It happens.
Head cooling on cylinder #5 - solutions?
in L-Series
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Are the pictures coming in for you guy's now?