Doug71zt

I'm an aircraft engineer, US equivalent is an A&P with IA. Work mainly on helicopters, all overseas. Previous stillborn career was civil engineer, hated it after I finished 4 years school and worked in the office for 6 months. Back to my first interest - Aviation. Most of our contracts are offshore oil related, with the occasional UN contract to spice things up. I did 3 tours in Baghdad before Baghdad was cool (or hot, as it were). Wouldn't want to be there now. Cheers Doug

If you are going to sump your tank, just hole-saw a couple 1 inch holes near the front of the sump area. Leave the tank alone near the back of the sump as that will help hold the fuel in the sump during accel. You have a lot of un-needed expensive stuff in your list if you are going to 350 hp. Spend on good engine management, and a WB02. Get some larger injectors from the sticky list. A 60-1/stg3 or stg5 hot side turbo would be decent - or talk to Dr. T about what one he recommends. Get a fuel rail for sure, stock reg is fine for now. I run an MSD 2225 pump which is OK for quiet and works fine. If you already have a 240mm flywheel, don't bother with the aftermarket one. There are a number of us here that are hard in the 11s with not large outlays of cash. Cheers Doug

In a 17x7 inch wheel, I wouldn't worry about the adapters as you are going to have big problems hooking up 400hp with a 205/215/225 width tire. I run bolt-on adapters on my car and have had no problems at all. As long as the wheel offset+adapter is close to the stock backspacing, there is no problems running them. The adapters that you are looking at here will be bolt-on, i assume, as you will be going from the 4 on 114 to the 4 on 100 honda pattern. Cheers Doug

Hi Matt Nope - This one will be a machine and install job on someone else's Lseries turbo engine. Cheers Doug

Using the Z31 hubs increases your front track by 18 or 19 mm. I have them on my 240. Getting a matching increase in track on the rear is a bit of a problem though, without using spacers. I am running about 30mm of spacer on the rear of my car.

I would stick with the 3.133 supra pot, it will go through the lower gears too fast with the 3.70. PM or email me if your buddy is wanting to sell the Nissan trans. I'm local to you guys. Cheers Doug

It has 245/50/16 Nitto DR´s on it there. The fronts are 225/50/16, which are a good fit on 7.5 inch rings. Thanks Doug

Here is the only picture I've got around right now.

I run a set on my car, Z31 hubs in front with a 1/4 inch spacer. Rear is a bit different, 1.50 inch spacer. I have coilovers on my car. There is enough room to run those wheels with a larger spacer in the front with stock springs. I have the 7.5 inch NA wheels all the way around. Doug

Not sure to whom you are replying, to clarify I am using the FS5R30. Doug

Hi Bernardd I'll be making more than two, once you get the pattern and setup to machine the plate, it is pretty quick to make a bunch. I am using a clutch from Ottawa, Bully-Clutch. Frank is the guy to talk to there, I got a 6 puck ceramic composite sprung unit, they will build whatever you need though. Will you be using the Z31 or Z32 trans? Cheers Doug

So - What you are saying is that you reduced one RB25 tranny to rubble for no reason? You could have used the RB25 tranny as-is like most people do, or used the front case from your AWD RB26 tranny for the Z32 transmission. ? Doug

They have also been known to explode behind the L-series around 350-400 hp. The L-series typically makes more torque than HP, different than the KA or V6 engines. The 400 ft/lbs at 4500 rpm is what kills these trannies. Cheers Doug

I am building a 3.0 stroker with forged pistons and a built head. The big thing is the change to a ceramic clutch and ET streets. There is no way that a L or KA series tranny will take that at the strip. The truck trannies are an option, but the gear ratios are different and I'm not sure about how the shifter will line up with the S30 body. The Z31 tranny that I am going to use is identical to the RB25DET tranny, except with a mechanical speedo drive. The shifter will line up better than the Z32 unit. I am building a driveshaft using Dana/Spicer 1310 series ujoint yokes. The L series adapter doesn't change the length of the tranny at all, as you machine the bellhousing to fit the adapter flush. That way the input shaft and everything else works fine. Mazworks in FLA builds the adapter, but the quote that I got from them was $450. A little steepish for what it is. Cheers Doug

A true leak-down test gives you a leakage percentage as you are measuring the difference between a reference air pressure and the air pressure in the cylinder being tested. It will not give you 165 or anything like that. A good engine that is in service can give you anywhere between 92-98%. Under 80% I would look for another engine, but it is hard to do an accurate leakdown when the engine is cold and hasn't been run it a long while. If you are serious enough to want to get the engine, buck up for some gaskets and pull the pan off to check if there is any metal in it and check a rod bearing while you are in there. I don't know if the importers are OK with doing this, but I wouldn't buy an engine that I couldn't hear running any other way. I don't think that the main problem with the RB series is low compression readings, usually it has bottom end distress. Cheers Doug

Sealed Power makes a decent one, should be available at your auto parts store. Doug.

The tranny will not be a T5. It is a Muncie with the integral bellhousing. The shifter may be a bit wonky for the car, as they were designed with a long truck shifter in mind. They are an electric speedo sensor trans, and hyd clutch. It should be all right behind a 5.3 - they don't seem to be failure-prone like the T5. I have one sitting on the shelf in my shop. Cheers Doug

Yasin - Do you have a GT or GTX? I had a GTX for a couple years when I was going to school in North Bay, ON. It was a great little car but hard on fuel. Quite a sleeper, and a nice car to drive in the winter. Doug

Yes, Its an 88 turbo tranny, I don't think the SX trans will hold up to the abuse with ET streets and a ceramic clutch. Doug

Thanks Guys - I'm looking at using an L-series adapter on a late Z31 tranny instead of the Z32 trans. I just wanted to make sure that the bellhousing pattern was the same for the two engines. Cheers Doug

I have a quick question for you VG guys. Is the bellhousing bolt pattern the same for the Z31 (VG30ET) engines as the Z32 (VG30DETT) engines? I don't have access to a Z32 engine right now and need to know if the patterns are the same. Thanks Doug

I am drilling the top of the rod for oiling, 1/8 inch with a countersunk surface. Manley also recommended 1/8. The recommended press fit for the bushings was .004, but the machinist and I both think that it is too tight a fit for a bushing that brittle/thin. The wall thickness is .045. I was thinking .002 interference fit would work better. The part number at Manley is 42303. The dimensions are: ID - .820 OD - .910 Length - 1.015 You may want to be careful with the metal on metal float. There have been a couple guys here that have tried it and ended up with galling on the pin. Thanks for the information Doug

Turbo head bolts have a recessed ring around the hex. They are different than the regular bolts - the std bolts will twist off if you torque them to the turbo specs. Doug

Hi Joe - Usually see a raised stylized 9 on the head of the bolt. I'm finally building up an engine to use those group buy forged pistons I got a few years ago.... Doug