Doug71zt

I used a U-Haul to move from Prince George, BC to near Toronto, ON. 2700 miles pulling a car trailer with the Z on it. Four 17-hour days. My wife was the copilot and it nearly ended our marriage. It was a mid-80's Ford non-turbo diesel - max speed 55 mph and about 6-7 mpg. What a POS. Between the massive exhaust leak and the screaming diff, it was so loud that we were both wearing ear defenders full time and yelling at each other. I had looked at the truck at the UHaul lot and tried to find some other method, but they were the only game in town. But it was cheap. And we survived and still laugh about it occasionally. Happy Trails Doug

I don't think that Bob is a 'Lap Puppy'. If I remember correctly, he has run it a number of times before with his wife as co-driver (Sherri or Shirley). Good to see one out there, I'd love to do it with an RBZ if the engine would hold together. The GTR boys didn't seem to have much luck a couple years ago. But - unfortunately, my driving skills probably wouldn't be up to the track work. Doug

It is BSPT 1/8 - 28 TPI British Standard Pipe Thread. Not NPT (1/8 - 27 TPI) TPI is the pitch of the thread in threads per inch. They are two different threads. The pitch is very close, and cranking in a NPT fitting with sealant will (most of the time) work. Once. BSPT fittings are hard to find in N America. The block can be retapped to 1/8 NPT easily. AN3 line will work for the turbo, or 3/16 solid line. No way you need an AN6 supply line. 1/2 is the smallest I would use for turbo return to pan. AN8 or AN10 will work. Doug

It is the same pump I'm using in my Z. Mine is branded NOS, but they are the same. I've got no problems with it in my application. It is reasonably quiet in the Z. You can use the stock reg with it with a decent sized return line. I´m running 3/8 supply with the stock 5/16 line used as a return. If you've ever been in a Z with an A1000 installed, you know you wouldn't want one in your daily-driver. I´d double up two of the MSD pumps in parallel before using one of those in my car. YMMV Doug

I cut a large diameter bolt and welded it to the plug with the MIG on a customers' car that was rounded out like yours. As far as I know, it is still in there. It is easier to put a wrench on the large hex head and turn it out. Good luck Doug

If you are riding on stock springs still, I believe that the early cars had a longer spring in the passenger side to counteract the road crown. I remember reading this in the 240z Hayes manual. I haven't run stock springs for about 20 years though. Doug

LD28 pump housing is cast iron, at least the one I had was. Doug

Dave - Looks like 50mm (flashlight and tapemeasure method).

Careful on the aftermarket pumps, I had gotten a 'Turbo' pump for a customer engine and it was a standard pump casting with deeper machining for the longer Turbo pump gearotor. This little trick reduced the flow area for the outlets by a significant amount. The true turbo pump has a longer main case around 10-12mm, I think. I have OEM nissan turbo auto pump in my engine with a factory oil cooler. I picked up a lot more oil pressure at lower engine speeds when I replaced the factory hoses and banjo fittings with AN10 fittings and hose, getting rid of a lot of 90 deg flow changes. I drilled the factory fittings off of the oil cooler and welded AN10 bungs on the tanks. Runs about 38 psi hot at 2000 rpm at 180 deg oil temp, 55 psi above 4000 rpm. This is with 10w30 oil. Doug

When I made my own adapters about 5 years ago, I shortened the stub shafts (one thread past a 280zx locknut) and made the adapter as thin as I could. My concern was with my adjustable control arms that I would be bottoming the CV. I also flipped the cage in the outer joint. I have lots of room to upbolt the shaft and take it out without unbolting any suspension. It may be that you have a strut assy with the lower throughbolt hole drilled at an angle. It is not that rare to find that being the case. I've personally seen at least two of them come through. Seems as the had a bit of a problem with tolerance in production.

If you took out something like a 3.54 and put in the 4.11, you will notice some more noise. It seems to me that higher ratio diffs make more gear noise. In the 240, this is very noticeable because of the close proximity of your head to the diff and the lack of any sound deadening between the two. I went back to a 3.7 from a 4.11 and my car got quieter. All the diffs I have had in my car have had good patterns and backlash, so I don't think that it is too much of a set-up related problem. Doug

I would avoid the econotig, save the cash and buy something more capable. I have the 180SD, which became the 200 syncho. I like it, but for heavy IC work you may need more current. I can use a friends lincoln 275 so it's not a big worry. An inverter machine like the Dynasty would be nice, but they are very pricey still. Way more portable though.

Drill and tap for a fitting in the turbo compressor cover near the outlet pipe connection.

Check with KMS tools in the lower mainland. They have a flier out right now that includes the 175 and cart for $300 off. Total cost $849.00. The Miller autodark helmets are on sale right now also. Here is a link to the site and the flier. http://www.kmstools.com/flyer/index.htm'>http://www.kmstools.com/flyer/index.htm http://www.kmstools.com/ They are good people and have always treated me fairly. I called 'Pigs Gorge' home for about 5 years...... Doug

Best thing for you to do is to section your struts if you like the ride height you have now. This will give you a couple inches of suspension travel back and you won't be beating the valving out of your new struts like you are with your current ones. I would look at the Tokico HZ series for a daily driver.

I also have the 240mm CFDF clutch behind the L6. I am sure that mine was properly broken in, the flywheel(fresh resurface) and clutch combo ran for 10K miles of daily driving behind my NA engine before the turbo engine went in. I was happy with it until I ran on slicks at the track. With the added traction, it would slip and fry off the line. I think that the problem with the turbo cars is that there is more TQ than the clutch can handle in the 3-4000 RPM area. The diaphram spring is light in that clutch, and I don't think that the weights help that much in that RPM range. When running street rubber, it will spin before the clutch slips. FWIW - I don't try to build boost at the line by loading the engine, I just take it up to 4k and walked it out. My 60ft times reflect this...(high 1.8s on slicks, 2.2-2.4 on street rubber). On street rubber, I can run 40 hot passes at 12.7-12.9 without complaint from the clutch(or the rest of the car). It's a nice clutch with a smooth, progressive takeup for a hot daily driver, it's just not suited to track duty behind a torquey L6.

I think that they are BZ-3099. Application is 87-89 MR2. The rears should be BZ-3015 which is the 240Z front strut application. I'm happy with mine, I use the same set with 175/200 in/lbs coilovers for street.

Moby - The big concern with Alky seems to be that the IAT sensor isn't really constructed to be sprayed with liquid, at least the GM version. I'm not sure about MS using the IAT during Alky injection - I'm just lurking and learning about MS as some people have been asking me to install and tune for them. I figured that I'd better learn something about it before that happens.... Austin - I don't think that distribution would be that great to cylinder #1 in the cold start hole. Doug

Ross at SDS recommended moving mine from the intake to the IC piping. His position was that with the non-crossflow head, there is significant heat transfer to the intake casting when you are sitting or running slow. This can cause driveability issues in the areas where it is really noticeable, slow speed idling around or sitting in traffic. I agree with him that the IC pipe mount responds more quickly to changes in temperature, because of the reduction in hot metal surrounding the sensor. Also, if you are going to spray alky or N20, the sensor has to be upstream of the injection. Made the IAT position pretty clear for me. Most automakers position IAT before the throttlebody, also. Doug

It has been recommended to me that the nozzle be downstream of the IAT sensor, apparently there are evaporation cooling issues and the GM sensor for one doesn't work too well after repeated baths. I have a 90 deg right before my throttle body, so I can pretty much do a straight shot with the nozzle. I just have to move my IAT out of the intake manifold and into the IC piping. I am having heat conduction problems with the IAT installed in the manifold anyway. Doug

I have a miller 175 which has WST. I've had it for 4 years, and for a while, couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong. Then I tested it side by side with a Lincoln 175 SP without WST, discovered that was the issue. I would recommend the Lincoln, until Miller includes a switch to shut off the WST. Doing fine work with body steel is easier, and the Lincoln handles the .023 wire better. I wish I had tested them side by side before purchase. Welding the heavier stuff with .030 wire, there is less of a difference. My next welder will be a Miller 210. Conversely, I have a Miller 180SD TIG, which is head and shoulders better than the Lincoln 175 TIG. Doug

Did you take the spacer off of the end of the crank when you installed the flywheel instead of the automatic flexplate? It may be stuck on the end of the crank, spacing your flywheel back toward the tranny. Did you install a pilot bearing in the end of the crank when you did the tranny conversion? There is no spacer installed between the flywheel and crank in manual car. Just trying to cover a few of the obvious things first.

There is also a Nissan meet in N Van on Sunday the 11th. It is at Waterfront Park. Ross C of Modern Motorsports is a sponsor. I'm out in Vancouver this month and looking forward to seeing some Z guys. Doug

The L28ET uses a tee fitting from the oil pressure port. It is a flared steel line, but off the top of my head, I can't remember the size, very close to 1/4 ID, but metric. FYI the block fitting is BST (British standard), not NPT, so take the oil pressure sender with you when you are looking for fittings. Or tap the block to NPT if you are using a mechanical oil pressure gauge and eliminate that problem forever.