Doug71zt

Olie Look no further: http://www.vulcantire.com/azenis_rt615_t.htm 260ish for 4. Happy hunting Doug

Buying and tuning with a WB02 will be the cheapest power you can make. I took 3 tenths off my ET and upped my mph by almost 2 mph a couple weeks ago by logging the WB output and tuning my fuel values. The tune is still conservative, all i did was even out the mixture across the RPM range to my target AFR. If you have a good tune, a decent IC, and good gas, 300 hp is manageable on stock turbo pistons. 350 might not last - not sure but I'm close to that now. I would spend the money on good engine management and go with the N42/NA cam. You can always build the engine for more power later, and if you have a tuning problem in the beginning, no big loss if you burn a piston. I freshened a JY turbo motor and dropped it in to get my feet wet, turbo/efi-wise 5 years ago. It is still in there today with no problems. The first run down the strip was 13.7 and now I am running 12.4 on pump gas. Doug

Will the 8610-1437RACE require revalving or are they good to go out of the box for a street/strip/track car (in that order)? I'm running 175/200 with the sectioned-tube Illuminas in my 71ZT and am not too happy with the impact harshness that it has now with 225/45/17's. I am also going to take a step back on the bars to 25mm on the front and a 17mm on the back. It has a monster 28mm bar on the front now. Down to a 16 inch wheel also, with more rubber on the rear. John - I'm curious why you are going with the Tokicos on your personal car instead of the Konis? Thanks for this thread - It has definitely helped me out to understand why I am unhappy with my current setup. Doug

Will the 8610-1437RACE require revalving or are they good to go out of the box for a street/strip/track car (in that order)? I'm running 175/200 with the sectioned-tube Illuminas in my 71ZT and am not too happy with the impact harshness that it has now with 225/45/17's. I am also going to take a step back on the bars to 25mm on the front and a 17mm on the back. It has a monster 28mm bar on the front now. Down to a 16 inch wheel also, with more rubber on the rear. John - I'm curious why you are going with the Tokicos on your personal car instead of the Konis? Thanks for this thread - It has definitely helped me out to understand why I am unhappy with my current setup. Doug

Was that a rod that was spit out of the engine on the last run? Some pretty big sparks and stuff flying out of the passenger side of the engine under the turbo.

You got the wrong fitting. The block is acually BSPT 1/8 27 TPI. It is a tapered fitting that seals by interference fit. The fitting you have there is a straight thread BSP 1/8 fitting that seals with a oring. Honestly, the easiest way to solve the problem is to do what 240Hoke did and re-tap the block for NPT. That makes the fitting game real easy and the adapter for NPT to AN/JIC can be found locally. Good luck. Doug

I'm running 14 psi on 93 pump gas with my freshened stock bottom end. Running low 12's in the quarter, so I think that it is more than 300 hp. Stay conservative on your tune, and 300 should be no problem on the stock pistons. If you can find stock turbo pistons, it would probably be a better choice than the NA pistons you have, even used takeouts would be better. Doug

Hi Andrew - I believe that is a 300zx TT tranny with the RB26 front case installed. Rick told me that he had built the tranny for it when I was looking over that car for Michael. Cheers Doug

Gavin - There is some good information in this thread, I don't think that you were the nOOb being referred to. For your one-time type install, a direct-port is overkill. If I were you, I would try the MS dry-shot route. A selection of N20 jets would be a good idea, starting with a 25 shot. Just to make sure that the MS is working correctly. Drzed - Yes, that was the car, good to see you're doing OK running down the strip, time-wise. I saw your car in N Van at a Nissan meet last fall, but you didn't stay very long, I was talking to Ross from MM. Cheers Doug Doug

I saw a direct-port system in action one night at Mission strip in B.C. I think that the guy is a member here too. Seems to me it was a 150 shot, which approx doubled the output of the EFI L28. Visually, it is an impressive set-up that just looks nasty. If I was going to spray only, without forced induction, it would be a direct-port setup. He was taping his AFM back together after having a nitrous backfire. I believe he was running a WOT switch only, without an RPM window control. Missed a shift, got it into gear and floored it, triggering the system at too low an RPM. POW. Split the seam of the AFM housing, but amazing enough, didn't shatter the flapper. Taped it back together with racer tape, and carried on. The L28 is a pretty tough motor. Doug

three words - Saturn cylinder head. Give it a google - you may find that other makes would be a better bet. Cheers Doug

I've towed with a early dodge Dak and don't recommend it without some major rework of the stock suspension. It is one damn scary unit to tow with. I had an S-10 2wd Blazer with a 327/ T5 / 3.23 and it towed the z like a dream while getting pretty decent mileage. Doug

The VG has a history of snapping off exhaust manifold studs due to the (poor) design of the manifold and the difference in expansion rates between aluminum and cast iron. The manifolds are also quite crack-prone, on the 300 as well as the Maxima. Have a good look at yours to make sure they are not cracked also. You may have gotten away easy, but usually the holes in the head are done in. A buddy of mine retired a 300 NA with over 550,000kms on it, he now drives a VG Maxima with only 350,000km. They are good drivetrains. Doug

First things first. Check the dizzy shaft timing to make sure that the rotor is phased correctly. If the oil pump shaft was installed out of time, the dizzy won't be firing cylinders at the correct time. I think that this is one of the most common problems on L-series fresh fireups. Doug

Are you talking about the Patrol (TB45) engine? If so - no. Doug

I'm using a 38mm Tial and have a 44mm ready to go on my next upgrade. They are reasonably priced and quality units. That is all I have used on other peoples cars also. No problems. Doug

It almost makes me cry to hear stuff like this. You have no idea how much people from the north east and Canada would like to have a chassis that only needed quarter panel work. Sigh. Too bad it's in Cal.

Phantom - The click you are hearing could be the ACC relay releasing as you turn the switch to start. ACC isn't powered when the switch is in the start position, so the relay opens.

Zfury is correct. The Nissan ECCS uses a idle switch for the EFI and a pot for the transmission control. The connector on the pigtail is for the pot. You can use it for standalone TPS information. Some of the units also have a full throttle switch, but I don't think that the 300zx uses this input. The ECCS uses mass airflow and rpm, among other inputs, to calculate load instead of TPS, same as the Jetronic on the early cars. Doug

TWM sells raw velocity stacks in aluminum that are correctly formed for taper. They are about $30 each for the size you would use on an L28.

I know that there is a 5/8 and 11/16 bore slave cylinder for the Nissan trannys but can't be sure if they transfer over to the ZXT T5. Maybe the release fork or the pivot has been messed with by a PO? Doug

Are you hitting the metering limit of the AFM? I have a 2225 in my car with no problems at my power level, but I am running a LP pump/surge tank to supply the high pressure pump. That may make a difference as it doesn't have to suck the fuel up out of the tank, it has positive head pressure on the inlet. Doug

In a nutshell - no Doug

BSP and BSPT are two different threads which have the same pitch and major diameter. BSP- Straight thread, requires a sealing oring or crush-washer. BSPT- Tapered thread, self-sealing. Doug

Whoa-Stop-Halt. You will be drilling your oil pan for the turbo oil return unless you have a scavenge pump to pump oil away from the turbo. Turbos need a big oil return line that gravity-feeds away from the turbo. If oil can't easily get away from the turbo, it will end up going around the bearings and seals(piston rings)in the turbo and into the intake airstream or the exhaust, creating big problems. The valve cover would not be a good place to try and return turbo oil. For the oil pressure supply, the stock pressure sender hole is a great place to tee in for the turbo. That is where the factory teed in to supply the turbo on the ZXT. There is a nice little block on the ZXT engine that has the correct threads and a flare fitting for a rigid oil line to the turbo. Seriously, Your best bet would be to get a ZXT engine with all the goodies and drop it into your S30. Finally - You can't drill and tap the oil pan and get oil pressure because there is no oil pressure in the pan. It is created by the oil pump, which sucks oil out of the pan via the pickup and pumps it through the oil filter and into the main oil gallery in the block, which is where the oil pressure sender lives. Doug