Doug71zt

I'm modifing stock rods for full-floating pins and was wondering if anyone knew what size the oil hole in the top of the rod should be. I know that it was covered in the how-to Horwitz (sp?) book, but I can't find my copy. I did find the correct bushings from Manley. I just need to press fit, hone and do the oiling hole. Thanks Doug

It really depends on how you clock the compressor housing - In the normal position, I imagine that you will need more than 1/2 inch. My 60 trim .60ar T04E housing needed a 1/2 inch spacer to give clearance with the outlet in the 2 oclock position, looking at the inlet of the turbo. If you clock it down at the 5 oclock position, you may be OK without a spacer. Hope this helps a bit. Doug

I had to cut my own out on a bandsaw for my first downpipe. There was none available aftermarket. Just trace the gasket, get the hole bored first and then cut the outside to shape in the bandsaw. Cheers Doug

A stock Nissan turbo oil pump will suit you fine, and depending on what you are doing with the car, you may or may not need an oil cooler. I have a ZX turbo cooler on my car, and have trouble getting the oil hot enough in regular street driving. I have run with the oil cooler lines looped for a while (no cooler) and had no problems with hot oil at the dragstrip. If you are going to track the car, you will need some type of oil cooler. A smaller plate type will work well, I have heard of people using the stock RX-7 cooler. Doug

I am still running a stock block and head on my car - you will probably want to do a cam, judging by your plans for custom manifolds and the GT35. I am probably around the limits of the stock pistons, but I have no worries about the rest of the bottom end. I would not worry about rod bolts if you are not going to do anything else in the bottom end. You probably will not be spinning the crap out of it as your power peak will be around 6k. Doug

Dan - You da Man. Doug

Hi Dan Seems to be a problem with the Timeslip DB, I uploaded a new slip and when I click on the slip icon, I get a picture of my Avatar? Anyone else having a problem with the DB? Thanks Doug

For the weight of the Nissan 5spd, I don't think that you'll find a better transmission out there. I am running in the high 11's with a dead stock ZX 5spd, with new bearings. If you don't shock load them, they are really reliable up to around 300 hp on the street. One good thing to do is to replace the shift fork to shift rod roll pins with solid steel rivets, that way they won't shear. Doug

It was a deal - I'm sure that you'll be happy with it. Same model as mine. Doug

Richard - For a track car, I would go with Pauter or Carrillo. A friend recently had a bottom end come apart on a turboed Mopar 360, due to a failure of the threads on a Eagle rod. The threads pulled out of one side of the big end of the rod, leading to a holed cylinder and block, taking out the entire bottom end, and one head. He was only turning the engine to 6500. I can post a picture, it's not pretty. Those rods are forged in China, but allegedly machined in the US. I am working on an oil drill project that is struggling with quality issues from Chinese-made drill pipe and well casing material. It is the same problem, spec is right, material is questionable. Are those rods really 4340? - who knows. I was considering using Eagle rods for my upcoming RB project, but will be going with Pauter now. They are not much more money for the cost of the damage they can cause. Some import performance places have piston and rod combos that are quite reasonable in price. IPP is one of the places. I hear that there is quite a markup on engine parts by the time they get down under - maybe price them in the states and get them shipped. For an L-series, I would rather use a stock rod that had been prepped, at least you know that the metallurgy is good and the quality is there. I don't have any experience with the V6 rods, so can't help you there. Doug

Hi Matt I'd really like to read some of your collected wisdom on the RB series motors. I'm looking at building either a 26 or a 30 with a 26 head, single GT35R. I'm interested in what you feel is required for camsheadwork for a 550 hp 9k motor Doug

For the original poster - there is another thread recently about forged pistons - search PeteW and you should find it. Personally, I would stick with stock units if you are limiting yourself to 15 psi. If you think that you will run more boost in the future, by all means do the forged units now. I bought a set from Ross, but JE, Wiseco, and most other major makers will build pistons for the L28. Custom pistons from Wiseco run around 100 a hole, they will make anything that you spec. My Ross pistons were purchased in a Hybrid Z group buy a couple years ago, they just haven't made it inside an engine yet. I´m still running my JY stockers. BS The turbo had nothing to do with the piston failure unless it fed them a bunch of compressor wheel bits down the intake. Probably had something to do with detonation. I'm running the largest trim (60) T04E compressor wheel, have been for quite a while, on stock pistons. Up to 23 psi at the track, with a number of trips off the end of the boost gauge when I had WG problems. Best guess between 300-400 passes. I think that I may have pinched a ring land a couple years ago running too much advance at 14psi. I had a bad leak-down number on one cylinder, which strangely fixed itself within 2500 miles. As you can see by my sig, I'm on the ragged edge of what I would expect them to handle. They are a high quality stock cast piston, but keeping your foot in it when it is knocking will kill them quick. Doug

You got it. Doug

I have a Miller 180SD which I consider a great serious-home shop TIG. The SYN200 is even better, with a bit more power and a pulse feature, something that I would like on my welder. I don't think that you would go wrong with the miller. Doug

888 is the number most usually associated with good fortune in China, as the pronounication is very similar. That plate number would probably be worth $500,000 in Hong Kong. Doug

Just check the licence plate - Dead giveaway that the owner is Chinese. I'll say that he's a lucky guy to own that. Doug

Chevy Chevette front springs from the Diesel model. Also, you could swap in upper strut mounts from a 280z, that would get you about a 1 inch difference in ride height by itself. You will be at the scary end of the camber curve by jacking it up that far. I can't remember how much the factory raised it for rally, seem to remember 3 inches. They used different strut housings also, not sure if they corrected the camber for that ride height or not. Never seen a Z on the rally suspension. I ran (cut) chevette springs all around with 185/75/14 snow tires for a couple winters on a 280Z and it was a great winter car with the EFI. Have fun Doug

Jon - Can't own handguns, eh? Someone forgot to tell me. Doug

I am running a stock bottom end with stock cam in a P90a. My trap speed says that I am making more than 400 hp at 21 psi with around 98 octane in the tank. I have run this combo for more than 4 years now, refining the tuning. I seem to be at a bit of a plateau power-wise now, the car won't run any faster than 123.9, shifting at 5800. I think that there are a number of things that are limiting me here - turbine flow, head and manifold flows, and possibly the T04E 60 trim is out of air. The thread discussing it is here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112403 I'm running stock pistons also. Doug

GrayZee - That is what I am using on my .82 T3 housing to control boost. I run a 38mm Tial and boost control is solid. You have to keep it tight to the housing to avoid the firewall, but it works. Doug