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Doug71zt

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Everything posted by Doug71zt

  1. Thanks Aux - I can't imagine that it would have been tagged for bandwidth monitoring - I'm the only guy here with a Z-car. This is a new operational base for me, the last one used Websense also, but didn't block forums. Porn, streaming video, computer software sites, SKYPE, sports, etc. Here they block almost everything, but I can get my company intranet here and Outlook Web Access. I'm on a laptop cell card right now, it is slow and unreliable - and soon to be not available to me. I tried the hidemyipaddress.net and got a ad site? Will keep trying, but sooner or later someone from IT will be in to visit, as I keep banging on the Websense filters..... Sucks when the only gringo in this patch of jungle is me.. Doug
  2. Help - Aux or anyone that does IT - How do you get around Websense blocking Hybridz as a 'club or forum'? I am in the jungle in Ecuador and the company started blocking sites with Websense, including HybridZ. I'm here half the year and I'll loooosssseee my mind if I don't have hybridz to keep my sanity. I can access some forums still, like the Miller welding forum, not sure why HybridZ gets blocked. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Doug
  3. If the stock valves are in good shape, they will be fine for 300hp. Nissan didn't really cut any corners in the L-series, materials-wise. Swirl polished, reduced stem diameter, backcut valves will be lighter and require lighter spring pressures, but for a street car - you aren't going to be twisting it to 8K for hours at a time. As far as the longer N valves in the P90 head, I have no experience with that. You would reduce the thickness of the lash pads by around .100" on a reground cam (smaller base circle). You would have to do some mucking around with the springs and retainers in order to get your installed length and pressure where it should be.. Maybe BRAAP or someone else can chime in on this. Doug
  4. If you wanted to really quiet it down, run another resonator in the tranny tunnel under the driveshaft. I have videos of my car at the dragstrip and you can hardly hear it at WOT over the other car, no matter what I am running against. Doug
  5. Hi Jerry I have the Magnaflow 3inch round straight-through muffler on my 240, it is quiet and has a nice tone. It fits in the stock location nicely. I got mine through Marken Performance in Kitchener at a good price. It is a quality piece, personally not crazy about the Vibrant stuff. Doug
  6. Have a look here - Powertrain Industries http://www.powertrainindustries.com/catalogs_type.htm?type=Transmission+Yokes&PHPSESSID=0893b74d5efde04206838817fc79b9a9 Measure your old one up and compare to the chart. Doug
  7. I can confirm that the ferrea part numbers I posted are correct for the P90. They give the correct stem height when installed. There are a number of guys here that have used those valves in their P90 builds. If you do not want to spend the money on aftermarket valves, a used set from a P90 would do you fine, the stock Nissan valves for the turbo heads are very high quality material. If I was going to choose between stock and an SI stainless valve, I would choose the Nissan OEM valve. I used Ferrea valves because I wanted to go to a larger exhaust valve and the stock valves that I had were damaged by the previous owner.... Doug
  8. The roof of the combustion chamber went up - the P series valves are shorter, around .100" I believe.
  9. I've done a couple of the staked shafts. They are a pain to replace the joints in - I pressed the old joints out, then opened the yoke holes up to fit standard joints, and milled the inside of the yoke flat to accept snap rings. It takes a bit of messing around to make sure that the new joint is centered in the yoke, but any good machine shop can do it. It probably wouldn't hurt to have the shaft balanced after the replacement. I recently bought the parts to make up a HD shaft with 1310 ujoints, and it may be cheaper to build a new shaft than to shorten the 280 style. Doug
  10. Ferrea makes aftermarket valves for the P90 for much less than that. They are high grade stainless with swirl polished stems. In the stock sizes: F1841P - exhaust F1839P - intake Their catalog is online. Doug
  11. You don't want teflon buttons in your street engine. They can and will score up the bores as they pick up debris and grind them into the cylinder walls. Leave them to the 30's technology aircraft engines that run at 2500 rpm. Doug
  12. Best 1/2" impact gun for the money - IR231 all the way. I'm on my second one in 18 years. The first one is still running, in farm service. I will not buy a cheap die grinder/air drill for aircraft sheet metal work - Desoutter/Dotco/CP/IR all the way there. But it is just myself using these tools - they are taken care of. They last a long time with clean air and lubrication. As for drill chucks, Jacobs industrial is good for the money - the Multicraft series are absolute junk. I rarely use a key on my 1/4" Jacobs chuck - just spin it tight and give it a thump in the tighten direction with the heel of my hand. My drill press has a eastern European keyless chuck on it, can't remember the manufacturer off hand. It is a nice unit and was reasonable in price. Doug
  13. Yes, I'm using 240 rods, the Ross pistons were from the group purchase a few years ago - I've been waiting for the stock bottom end to give up, but it is still going strong... Doug
  14. I'm assembling a 3.0 right now with the LD crank and 87mm Ross pistons. I'm using stock rods. Did anyone have any need to notch the bores to clear the rods? Mine turns without interference, but it seems really close at the neck of the rod to bore, about .1" as far as I can tell. Not wanting to rip the bottom end apart again, I hope that the answer is negative. I found out today that Ross only shipped me a 4 cylinder spirolock kit, so I am really short on those. Cheers Doug
  15. I'm using the same plate style as shady with a 38mm Tial gate, holds anywhere from 8 psi to 22 psi with a 60 trim T04E compressor, Stg 3 .82 exhaust wheel. I opened up the turbine housing hole to around 1.5" Doug
  16. How close do you want? I'm about 3 hrs from Buffalo. Where in Ontario is the car coming from? Drop me a PM if you want. I have secure inside storage. Doug
  17. They will melt if you have an engine compartment fire, which is why they are not used on aircraft. Apart from that, no problems that I can think of. The OEMs use plastic lines now, so I don't think that there is any legal reason not to use them. EFI pressures should be no problem. Doug
  18. Having had long experience with T5 trannys - I dislike a lot of things about the design and the way they shift. Also for the L-series and other Nissan bellhousings, the ford input shaft is too short. There is a gearset available, but it is Uberexpensive compared to adapting a nice beefy quiet reliable Nissan tranny. Doug
  19. For the L490L480 custom turbo grind (Z-Gad) Duration at .050 Intake-242 Exhaust-232 Doug
  20. Yasin - You're going to use factory rods, right? I am building an engine with floating pins right now and the bushings are available from Manley. It took me a while to find them. Part Number 42285-6 should get you 6 of them. The dash number is the quantity. They are Ampco A-18 material and should be installed with a .004¨ press fit. I would heat the rods and freeze the bushings as well as chamfer the edge of the hole to prevent pick-up. The dimensions: ID - .820 OD- .910 Length - 1.015 After installation, you hone them to pin-fit. Manley calls for .0008-.0011 pin fit. I had a hard time finding bushings for 21mm pins that were long enough for the wide L-series rod. Good luck PS- How much did Greg charge for the head? He seems to be the only guy locally in Toronto that is doing L-series heads right now. Cheers Doug
  21. The cam that I have from ISKY is a custom grind for a turbo car, I am building the same basic engine as yours. It is a L490 intake/L480 exhaust spec with a 114 deg lob angle. It is what they recommend for a stroked L turbo. Give them a call and they can recommend a grind for you. They don't have an turbo cams in the catalog, but have lots of cams that they will custom grind for you. I think that this is the same cam that ZGAD was running. EDIT - Here are the specs for Z-gads cam. Specs are.. Intake 490 lift 276 duration Exhaust 480 lift 266 duration 114* lobe center 44* overlap Cheers Doug
  22. Here is a link to the factory page. http://www.corbeau.com/products/gts2/gts2.shtml# They are a great seat, had them in my wife's Grand Am for a bit over a year. Couldn't stand the stock GM seats in that car. Cheers Doug
  23. I have a set of Corbeau GTS-II in black fabric to sell. They have the lumbar support installed. How well any of these aftermarket seats fit in the Z depends how tall you are. If you are 6ft or under, you will have less problems getting seats to fit, as the wheel well interferes with most seats when they are all the way back. Doug
  24. Clayton - Are they looking for overseas positions also or just production? I'm an AME (Canadian version of A&P with IA), 4 years university, 2 year aviation college degree. 13 years licenced, some time on S58T, S61 and S76 A++ and C+. If Sikorsky would sell Seahawks to the offshore oil industry, I'd have time on those also.... I guess this is their solution for dropping quality and production delays. Good on you for getting in there. Cheers Doug
  25. What year is your Z31? If it is a 87 or newer turbo manual, you can use your original tranny with a RB front housing bolted on. Then you could use your mechanical speedo with a cable drive. The VSS - Vehicle Speed Sensor will come out of your transmission and you can install a regular speedo drive gear in the hole. Otherwise, most of the RB transmissions use an integrated VSS in the transmission, might be a bit harder to convert over to mechanical drive. Doug
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