CamH

Sorry about that, I am actually in the military and stationed in Southern California. So it has been pretty warm lately. Here is what my warmup wizard looks like currently.

I've only driven it once since the install. It had the same problem, and I would have to shut off everything, turn everything back on, and it would drive fine for a few hundred feet.

Hey, here is a copy of my dwell settings if anyone wants to take a look at them.

I believe my dwell is set at 2.9 which ought to be about right. I will double check my MSQ and report back.

Yes, I mean the factory 82-83 ZX distributor. I am driving the coil with the BiP373 coil in the MegaSquirt. I have switched between two known good coils and neither one has offered improvement. I am not sure of either ones age.

Well, the coil is still cool to the touch after running the engine. How likely is it that only the internals of the coil are overheating?

Are you referring to the MAP sensor? If so, I am running the standard ones that comes with the V3.57 PCB. So, it may help to turn off the barometric correction off, right?

Here is a datalog of exactly what the car is doing. This is with the MSQ file posted above. camhdatalog.zip

Unfortunately, I do not have a data log for the particular way it is running at this time. I left the power cable for my laptop at home the last time I went to work on the car. I do, however, have a copy of the MSQ file I am currently running. Could I please get someone to look it over before I rip out my nonexistant hair? I can get a datalog to accompany it probably tomorrow evening. megasquirt200904201520.msq.zip

Here's what I've got: 1983 rebuilt L28ET with forged bottom end with compression bumped to 8:1 Factory distributor Good condition factory turbo injectors No intercooler Factory turbo in good condition MegaSquirt II v3.57PCB LC-1 wideband O2 sensor MSA downpipe 240Z coil NGK BPR6ES plugs gapped to .020 Here's what it's doing: When I start the engine, it starts up almost immediately, and runs very well. It revs easily and is very smooth, and idles nicely. After short time, it will begin running very poorly - extremely rich according to my wideband. After that, I can rev it up and once I let off the gas the engine will immediately die, and I cannot restart the engine until I turn the MS off and then back on. I really need to get this sorted out because I am about ready to give up on this engine and put in a different one with carburetors soon because I really need to be able to drive this car. Thanks in advance for any help.

Turns out my trigger offset was still wrong. I changed it to 38 degrees, and now the timing settings from the MSQ match what happens with the timing light. Other than that, I still cannot get it to rev over about 4800RPM and it is not entirely smooth.

Thanks for the reply. I have hooked the wideband back up, but it is all over the place - I need to revisit this. I haven't driven the car yet, I am really looking for it to rev easier before I venture out onto the streets with it.

Alright, guys, here is the MSQ and datalog of what got me to nearly 5000RPM. I would really appreciate it if someone could take a look and offer some advice. Turns out, my trigger offset was waaaaay off. I have it close to what it should be now, I think, but I will need to verify with a timing light. Anyways, when I hit like 4800RPM, the engine just falls on its face and nearly dies. It sounds pretty smooth running up to that, but I can't just mash the throttle to get it there - I have to slowly add more pressure on the accelerator until it reaches that RPM. So I can't just give it WOT and gain RPM. Anything over ~30% throttle will just kill it. Does anyone have a suggestion for that? Thanks a bunch guys! 5000RPM.zip

Alright, guys, I got it to rev to almost 5000RPM, and I took some pictures of my distributor and camshaft with the engine at TDC. Can someone verify that I have everything set properly? I'll be posting everything in the next few minutes...

Alright, here is the latest datalog from the car. I could have got it to rev a little higher (around 3000 rpm) if I had let it warm up for a little bit longer. The timing is way out there because I guess the distributor shaft as installed incorrectly. 95 degrees is a timing light verified 22 degrees BTDC. Archive.zip

Alright, I got it going smooth up until about 3000RPM, and I was messing with other settings, which did not help. After a while, I decided to call it quits and just do a datalog for the evening - at which point the car quit starting. So, anyways, I am headed down in the next day or two to change the oil (it is starting to get gas in it from running so rich) and I will try to take a datalog of it at that time. Until then, any advice is appreciated.

Hey, guys, really quick. I've got the car running to fairly smoothly all the way up to 2000RPM or so. After I try to rev past that, the car totally dies. Does anyone have any ideas what may be causing this. It has been suggested that I may have a problem with interferences with the signal wire coming from my distributor to the MegaSquirt, which I will look at, but is there anything else I should be looking at?

Cool, I will swap the wide band for the old lean/rich O2 sensor that the engine came with then.

Alright, guys, I got it running. Just to make this clear to anyone who may read this thread in the future: When using a BIP373 module, the wire from JS10 will go to the leftmost button on the BIP373 which is the same as the IGBTIN. There is a patch of printed circuit going between the two. It is probably better to just use IGBTIN as that is what it is there for. Alright, so it runs. Great. It runs like crap though and I am looking for suggestions as to why. According to my wideband, I am super rich. Also between runs I messed with the timing a bit at the distributor and that seemed to help a little. I feel like I may not be getting spark on all cylinders. I have posted a new datalog. I am also including some pictures of the MegaSquirt unit itself, as requested. 20090309.zip

Thanks softopz I will do just that this afternoon. Does anyone have guidance on my previous post though? I would like to try it this afternoon when I see the car.

Yeah, I have a BIP373 module on Q16. So, I should not have any other wires connected to the BIP373. The wire going to JS10 should be going to IGBTIN. Correct? Sorry if I am coming off a bit dense. This information is not very apparent to someone who is not intimately familiar with the MegaSquirt boards. I am piecing things together from multiple sources and just want to get things right.

I just found this information on a VW forum. This will all depend on if you have Q16 installed or not (ignition driver transistor). If installed: JS10 needs to be jumpered to IGBTIN Spark output set to non inverted If not installed: JS10 needs to be jumpered to the location Q16 pin 2 (center) Spark output set to inverted

Hey, I am trying to find out if there are any businesses or local individuals who specialize in installing MegaSquirt setups in the San Diego area? I have been having nothing but trouble with my car (http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=144490) and, at this point, I am ready to take it to a professional or someone who knows what they are doing.

That didn't work. Still no spark. Also, I opened the MegaSquirt. The wire to the middle pin on the BIP373 module IS going to JS10. This is correct, right? Any other suggestions?