CamH

If you mean silver, that was me! You're talking about in the crappy traffic before the wreck near San Clemente, right?

Well, that's very friendly of him!

The one out of a naturally aspirated 280ZX, not a T5.

That is awesome! I can't wait to see the video

Alright, here's what I'm trying to do: I have a shift knob meant for a newer Nissan (84+) that is a very specific style that I cannot get for older transmissions. The thread pattern is too big. My question is this: Will the shift rod from a newer transmission (say from a Z31) swap in to my 280ZX transmission, or would I be better off rethreading my current shift rod in the new pattern? Thanks!

I've been thinking about giving this a shot because my AFR's are never very stable. I started trying it on some old plugs and found it to be very difficult to do! How many spark plugs did it take you to get it right? Did you accidentally cut any at an angle? How precise do you think this needs to be?

I guess this is the only time that Pacer will have a Z in its rear view mirror.

Maybe something happened to him? Why not set the money he paid you off to the side, in case he contacts you later, and sell the engine again?

That sounds correct, but I did update to 2.889 and was able to use the exact same tune.

I believe the 280Z cable has quite a bit of slack in the line so I'm pretty sure it would work. I am going to be replacing the one in my car at the end of this week and can get you an exact measurement of the cable for you to compare it to at that time if nobody gets back to you before that.

If this comes out, I will buy another Z32.

If you do decide to go to the L24, the difference in performance won't be much at all.

I hate you unless you are making more of these and selling them! Just kidding! Looks great!

Nope, just a boost controller will do. No need to get another spring. That is just the base pressure for that wastegate.

You probably have the wrong distributor drive shaft. If that's the case, you will need a turbo one and a turbo distributor. From there, everything else will just bolt on to it and you will need to wire it up. edit: You should get a turbo oil pan too, or tap yours for a drain plug.

You just need some sort of boost controller and the minimum boost that you can run will be 7psi with that wastegate spring.

I love this. Also, the 260Z has a 2.6 liter 6 cylinder? Do you know what other car had a 2.6 liter 6 cylinder? That's right, the Skyline GT-R. It's basically the same engine, they just called it the L26 so that people could snatch them up cheap at junk yards. The RB26DETT engine management, turbo chargers, fuel injection, etc, just slaps right on there! Good luck and don't forget to search for help!

It seems like it should be alright. All it is there for is to drain oil from the turbo, so as long as it flows as much or more than the oil feed, it should work.

The basic tune, I have been running since may, with just small amounts of tinkering.

Here is my tune. A lot of it will be pretty far off but it should get you going if you adjust the injector settings and get the trigger angle right for your set up. Here's what I'm running fyi: L28ET with 8:1 compression Factory 280ZXT T3 @ 8PSI Factory L28ET injectors Factory L28ET distributor 300ZX coil MSA Downpipe to 3" exhaust No intercooler LC1 Wideband MegaSquirt II v3.57 camh.msq.zip

Stock T3's are so cheap, why not just get another one?

I wish there was some videos of it running in a car. I bet it would sound amazing.

I know this is kind of an old thread, but did you ever do this? If so, how did it work? Do you have any pictures? I'm thinking of doing the same thing if it worked for you.

Hey guys, I am having a a really strange cooling problem on my 240Z with an L28ET with an Arizona Z Car radiator. Here it is: I first started messing with this about a week ago when the car started heating up in traffic. I took the radiator cap off when the car was cool, and the coolant level is at or near the top of the radiator. After starting the car, the engine seems to "suck" the coolant down to about half way in the radiator, like there is a bubble that got "burped" out of it. However, unlike when there is a bubble in the cooling system, when I shut the engine off, the coolant goes back up to the top of the radiator. I've talked to a few people that I know and nobody has ever heard of an engine doing that. I want to ensure that I always have plenty of coolant and am not risking damaging my engine. Does anyone have any clue how to resolve such an issue?

Wait, what engine is swapped in to this car already?