freakshow

Got m30 subframe modified, used 2 inch tube for mounting points, got solid aluminum bushings spun up for it. Supposed to warm up in the next couple weeks.. gonna try to get it all put together..

no pics yet.. been working 70 -80 hours a week.. no time to work on anything..

OK, I am ready to have the crossmember modified for the Infiniti swap. I am going to use the Infiniti crossmember, control arms, differential, and cv shafts. I was looking for bushings to use because I cant get the old ones out to try to save them, haven't tried heat, but that will destroy the bushings anyway. The Infiniti bushings are bigger around, so I think they will add too much slop, and I think the smaller Datsun bushings will be easier to work with as far as spacing on the crossmember. I haven't been able to find a 280zx specific bushing for the subframe and I was wondering if anybody had a part number or something close. I am cutting the ends of the crossmember off and having new mounts welded on so outer diameter doesn't matter too much..but the inner diameter does as this has to mount on the original bolts in the car.

Here are a couple pics. one shows unfixed toe, other shows the camber. These are just from bolting the parts together, Infiniti arms on Datsun crossmember. I have to pull the whole rear out to slot the arms to correct toe. The camber is much worse after the car has been moved..I had just jacked the rear up and set it back down before the pics. Also a pic of the new driveshaft.

Got the driveshaft done by D&R Driveline. Going to start on it again this week, supposed to get a slight warm up.. I will start posting pics as I go.

I will post some pics up soon, I have to pull the rear end back out to address the toe issue. I live in Michigan and its a little cold to work in the garage with no heat.

Little update, broke a stub shaft in the early part of the summer, so I took the whole control arms, and c.v. shafts, and pig out of the Infiniti, and bolted them to the Datsun crossmember. The parts bolted on and it only needs some slight adjustments to the toe, maybe some to the camber. I have to have a driveshaft made up because the flange on the pig is different, but I needed a new driveshaft anyway, U-joints were bad. Gonna get one made up with replaceable U-joints.

hook up a mechanical gauge. I had to hook up a mechanical gauge, just to make sure that the car had oil pressure. I just went ahead and left the mechanical one hooked up, but I imagine your sender went bad.

I have to buy a new fuel pump for my s10. Autozone has one, with the full sending unit and everything, for $260. I went to rock auto and they have one made by spectra for $80. I dont want to spend a whole lot of money, but the truck normally runs good and makes me money about every time I drive it. The pump autozone sells is made by airtex, and the one rock auto has is made by spectra. I cannot replace just the pump, because I know that when I start to pull the lines off the tank, they are going to break. Michigan rust. If anyone has had experience with these pumps, or one made by these manufacturers I would like to hear form you.

Take the wing off the hatch, but leave the fins on the sides. Put a caddy motor in it, and change all the emblems to caddy emblems. Say it was Cadillac's first attempt at a sports car. The pic with the hatch open just scream "Look at my fins!!!!"

HA HA. In the world of steel, the block of wood wins yet again!!!! Take that you damn steel nazi's!!! In this world gone mad, the most ancient of ancients wins again!!!

If you managed to get all the bolts out, make sure you got all of them, and you dont have them all broke, and its just the gasket holding it in place, take a block of wood, 2x4 or whatever and place it on the pump and hit it with a hammer, the wood, not the pump. It should come right loose. If the bolts are broken, do the same thing carefully. and use vise grips on the bolt stumps. If you cannot even get the bolts loose, you will probably break them when you try to unbolt it. If you want good answers, you have to post good questions.. Vague questions will get poor response, or sent to the tool shed.

I have seen a couple of threads asking this question. There is a difference. If you do some searching (might take a while), you will find the answer. But it was something like U.S. rating 89 being the same as the lowest rated Aus. octane. Look around, you will find your answer.

Thank you for the response. I am just looking to do this right. I have called 7 or 8 machine shops in my vicinity, and a 5 of them said "whats a l28???". The machine shop in town does good work, but mostly domestic v8's.

I have been unable to find a machine shop around me in michigan that has the torque plates to bore my motor. I planned on boring it .040, and running flat top pistons with the n47 head, making the compression around 9.9:1. I am worried that at that compression ratio I will have early engine failure, and poor ring seal if I dont have the work done with torque plates. I know that boring with and without plates has been discussed, but I have searched and have been unable to find conclusive threads. If this is all discussed and I am wasting bandwidth, please point me in the right direction. Also, if the deck plates are that important, would it be possible to rent them from one of the machinist's here?

If the stereo was installed correctly, there should have been a constant power switch going into the factory stereo. I , however, never like the idea of running modern equipment on thirty year old wiring. I ran my constant hot straight off the battery, with a 15 amp fuse. mine works great, and wont burn the car up if the wire gets compromised.

I suppose you could remove the exhaust manifold without removing the intake, however, I believe it would make the job even more difficult. If your engine has any kind of miles on it, the gasket will probably stick to the manifold and tear, requiring you to replace the gasket, then all your work of removing the exhaust first will be null and void, as you will have to remove the intake anyway to replace the gasket. I suggest you just pull it apart, its not really all that difficult. In the process you will find out that most of the hoses need to be replaced, some of the clamps will be junk, and you will save yourself some major headaches later on. After I did mine, I went for a drive on the expessway, hadnt changed a couple of hoses on top of the intake, and of course one of them blew, leaking coolant on a sunday afternoon, 50 miles from home isnt cool. do it right, pull the whole thing apart. better you find the weak points in your garage than on your way to work.

I had a broken stud on the frond of mine. I drilled it out, and replace it with the next size up stud, to ensure it wouldnt break again, not an issue since. I am going to do the same to the front and rear studs on the engine I am building right now. the whole operation cost me about $75. I bought a set of metric taps, a new drill bit, the new stud, washers and a nut. I also put some locktight on the studs when I put them in.