freakshow

I have a mostly stock 79 280zx, n/a. I Just bought a new set of sumitomo htr200's 205/70/14 off of tire rack for $265 delivered. I put one pair on it now (I am in the process of refinishing a set of stock 280zx wheels). I put them on the rear and went from an older set of mastercrafts. I cannot believe how sticky these tires are from the mastercrafts. I went from leaving 15 foot streaks of rubber to a 2 foot streak with tremendous acceleration. I know that most people like to go with a bigger wheel for handling purposes, but I didnt want to suffer a loss of sidewall on my wonderfully rough michigan roads better suited to 4x4's. I just thought I would throw this out because I couldnt find a lot in the stock tire size, and nothing local to me could be found for even close to $265. If anyone has has problems with these tires I would like to hear it, but so far the ride is nice and the tires stiff enough for aggressive street driving, and still pleasant on the highway.

I don't know the answer to this question, but I would like to see one. As a beginning mechanic, I don't know about whole lot about cam timing with performance cams, and I am always interested in knowing more. If this has been answered over and over, then someone could say so, but if not I know that some of the people on here are uber-smart, and know all this crap. One way or another I thought this post needed bumped.

'59 Cadillac Coupe Deville, in the stereotypical red with the white top, oohhh, the chrome, the fins, pure beauty. A close second would be a '64 Lincoln continental four door convertible. in the stereotypical black on black. I am all about the big cruisers. Even the '70's caddy's are nice to drive, if you can afford to put gas in them. Who says your dream car has to be fast and uber expensive.

Which stud broke off? On mine the front stud broke off. I drilled it out, and retapped it to the next size up stud. Get yourself some double tipped drill bits. They stay centered way better than the cheap ones, or hit it with a punch. I strongly suggest tapping out to the next size up stud. When I reassembled my intake/exhaust the rearmost stud started to bend over, so i drilled and tapped it to the next size op stud. It wasnt real hard to do, and nissan left a lot of room for error with thier design, just try to keep the drill very straight. If its one of the middle studs, I dont know, get some pb blaster, let is sit overnight, and drill it out and try some easy outs. I dont remember, but maybe they can be upsized too.

The fsm, turbo section says 20 degrees btdc, +/- 3 degrees. Also the Autozone website has a whole section on vehicle specifications, all kinds of info can be found there. Helped me a lot with stupid little things, like timing on, vehicles that dont have an emissions tag.

Nobody answered, so I tryed it. .050 does not work. I gapped the plugs out, ran good at idle, but when revved under load, died. I brought it back home, and reduced the gap to .040, runs smooth, but I didnt notice a difference from stock. The plugs are new plugs, I am kinda just trying things out.

Rockauto.com, car-part.com, autozone. gaskets can be bought about anywhere, a standard msd coil works and doesnt cost much, thermostats can be found anywhere.

There is a factory service manual downloadable from this site. There should also be an emissions tag on the underside of your hood, on mine its on the passenger side near the back of the hood, top when hood is open. Also at the top of the HybridZ page is a search button, you wouldnt believe the things that are hidden here!!!!

i have been looking all over for actual info for coil.spark plug gap. I installed a msd blaster 2 coil, and I was looking all over to find out what I could increase my spark plug gap to. I know that the factory gap on my olds is .050, and if that is that and the compression on my olds is 8.blah-1 and the compression on my datsun is 8.blah-1 couldnt I increase my gap to at least .050? I run a stock motor, pretty much all of my mods have been to gain mpg, not mph. I think this would help a lot of people who are just learning the major and minor ins and outs of these engines. I searched all over this site and googled till my eyes were red and still couldnt find what could be done. Doesnt a bigger plug gap improve combustion?? This part of this stuff kinda has me boggled.

The 700r4 came in about everything from like 1985. Almost any fullsize half ton 2wd truck had the 700r4, corvettes, caprice, impala, all fullsize gm with a v8. you just have to look. There are even some (rare, rare, rare) that came with the b.o.p. boltpattern, and universals. 2wd S10's with the 4.3 came with them, but do not have as many clutches in the clutch packs, so shouldnt go behind a v8 for towing purposes. I pulled a 700r4 out of an '85 fullsize 3/4 ton with the 305 in it. The 4wd transmissions need a tailhousing or adapter to use in a 2wd application. You really need to look to find one as they came under everything. Just check the pan of any fullsize g.m. car or truck, every junkyard has like 50 of them. The 700r4 got a bad rap early on, but so did the th350 when it first came out. The 700r4 is a good trans that is no more expensive to build "hot" than any other trans. Corvette servos and valvebody kits and shift improver kits are available everywhere for a very reasonable price. On a side note, if you do find one of those b.o.p. or universal 700r4, I would gladly trade two chevy pattern 700r4's for it.

I use my 79 zx as a daily driver during the summer, but it there is a big difference in my other choices as compared to yours. I have a 92 s10 that gets 15-17 miles to the gallon and a 2000 impala that averages 20-27 depending on how often i use the a.c. My datsun gets around 20-24 or as low as 12 depending on how much I get on it, but i also run premium in it, which kinda makes up the difference. I drive it because I prefer it. It is fairly comfortable to drive, I drive it to Grand Rapids and to cadillac, which are both 50 miles from where I live, and I have drove it as much as 100 miles one way. the ride is decent and it is comfortable without being lethargic and boring. But on the other hand I could just as easily drive the s10 that distance for the same price.

If you have to run 20w50 to keep oil pressure, you might want to consider picking up a spare engine, for when you go to start your car, and a main bearing decides to take a spin on the crank. I only run 15w40 in my 200,000 mile s10 with a 4.3. 20w50 is a way thicker oil than I would run in anything this side of a diesel. I would have to say that your clearances are way out of spec, pressure gauge or not, with that thick of oil, you need a rebuild.

I have a set of wheels that my brother in law was running on his infiniti m30, with wheel spacers. The spacers werent wide enough and the wheel weights rubbed off, and put gouges in the strut tubes. I tried the wheels on my 92 honda accord, perfect fit. The bolt pattern is the same, the offset is not. To run the whels on my 79 zx, I would have to have almost two inch spacers. This was the plan until i picked up a set of factory z alloys. The honda wheels looked sweet when i did the mockup, and I might go that route later. Long story short, accord wheels share the bolt pattern, not the offset, gotta get wide, very wide spacers.

This website has a wonderful search engine, you just type in "turbo kit" or "ecu upgrades" and it finds it!!!

My car had similar problems when I first got it. The first stud (the one closest to the front) had broken off and the gasket had blown out, made a horrible popping sound. It also sounds like your timing might be off and it is backfiring. You need to check your timing, and replace every vacuum line you can find. Even a small vacuum leak can cause problems. As for the food smell, coolant smells sweet, check the carpet on the passenger side floor, if it is damn and smells like coolant, your heater core is leaking. Most of my cars problems were cured just by replacing the vacuum lines and fixing the gasket, but yours might have more miles on it, or may not have been as well maintained. Even a small vacuum leak can cause problems. my car idles smooth at just under 800 rpm 2000 is way to high, and must be a lot of fun to drive. my car is also a 79 5 speed.

I Had A Hard Time Reading This Post Punctuation Is Key

shouldnt this be in the for classified section? i have one off of a 77 280, same thing, same price as that guy posted i guess, i dont need it.

The reason I originally removed my bcdd was because it was making a horrible racket at idle, sounded like someone was trying to grind up a bunch of cats. I suppose I could have rebuilt the unit, but I dont have emissions, and i plan on upgrading my system later, and I didnt want to waste money on something I would be removing later. I got increased vacuum at idle, and also got better oil pressure. The car idles smoother now, and doesnt creep up when I sit at stoplights. I assume the original cause of the noise was a wore out baffle in the bcdd. The car does not backfire out of the intake, and I cleaned everything out when i replaced the intake manifold gasket. On the other side, before I removed the bcdd, on startup, if I tried to rev the motor before it warmed up, it would backfire out the intake. Now it only backfires at the 2800 rpm mark. After I read that, I payed more attention to the spoke of rpm, and that is what I have seen from my car. The car has never had a cat, the whole time I have owned it. From the looks of things, it hasnt had a cat for a very long time.

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Thank you very much for the very informative post Braap. This clears up a lot for me. I have another question though. As I have removed my bcdd and plugged the ports, with my tps set as factory, is there any way to lean out the mixture with my factory efi? I dont have the money to pony up for a aftermarket efi system, although that is a future plan. Are there any adjustments i can do with the factory efi to make the mixture leaner?

the intake on bumblebee, from my research looks closest to the weber cross ram intake.

does the axle have the right width for the truck? is the bolt pattern right? the truck is a full size right?

its not a toyota axle. http://www.4wdandsportutility.com/tech/0803_4wd_toyota_4x4_builders_guide/photo_21.html and its not an eaton, no bolts on back of housing

I got a little something from the m30 guys, the diff itself is longer, yoke might be interchangeable, but the pinion itself is longer. no matter what, I am going to have to get my driveshaft shortened, but not by much. could you measure the diff and tell me the difference between them? do you know if the spline count on the two is the same? size of u-joints different?

nothing? I posted a similar question on the m30 site, and got nothing. has anybody used the m30 diff? Is it so rare that im going to be the first to use it? I dont want to get everything all tore apart and find out I wasted my time. has anybody ripped the infiniti diff apart? I see some info on it, but no one has posted anything about the yoke differences, all I can find is that the snout of the m30 diff is longer. I love this car but I am also broke. being able to use this differential will save me a lot of dough, especially since here in michigan, finding datsun parts is harder than anything else. Please help me out here.