GreenState

Correct. This chassis was picked because it was solid, but the car wasn't so pristine that I didn't feel too bad cutting it a little. I am glad that I didn't end up cutting flares.

Bumpers are actually back on the car, ill put up some new photos. Original metal everywhere, no rust repairs.

With a heavy heart I've made the decision to sell my Z. My last request from the great people on here is to help me come up with a fair price. All of the details of the build are in my post history, but here's the short list. 1971 240z, Built 4/71. 68k Miles. Rust Free. Original Engine. SU Carbs. Emissions deleted. Koyo Radiator Ground Control Camber Plates McKinney Coilover Conversion Suspension Tech Swaybars F&R AZC Brakes with AZC parking brake calipers. 280z Brake Booster Wilwood MC TTT LCA and Tension Rods Front TTT LCA Rear with poly bushings. JDM Subaru STi 180 Rear Diff with stub axles 280zx 5 sped transmission Bad Dog Frame Rails and front sway bar reinforcement. Rota RBR Wheels, 17x9.5 Dunlop Direza Star Spec Tires New Distributor cap and spark plug wires. Bunch of original parts included (control arms, brake calipers, 4 spd tranny, etc.) Some new uninstalled parts included (new headlights and wiring, electronic ignition, etc) I know I'm forgetting some things

I have a template in Sketch Up, PM me your email address and I can send it over.

I went through alll this, see post 12 & 13. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/104978-greenstates-71-240z-build/

Sorry to hear about your car getting totaled, glad you're OK. Sounds you're on the right track to getting a valuation for your car. When you get another Z, definitely go with an agreed value insurance policy. Since your Z is a 'classic car', you have some options. I go through Hagerty (https://www.hagerty.com/) which specializes in older cars and offers agreed value policies, great customer service, and perks like flatbed towing. My Z is fully insured with an agreed value of $16k for $232 a year. You can adjust the policy as you upgrade to cover the new parts, just document it along the way.

Unless you're going to fabricate a whole tube frame front end, like this, I'd abandon ship on the car. The 240 has very little structural integrity to begin with and this one has been compromised. Even if it's straight-ish, you'd never really be able to trust it. That patch job around the T/C rod scares the crap out of me. I wouldn't worry about the hood alignment...

I wish this existed before I spent a small fortune on the AZC brakes....

About time somebody made this....way to go TTT. Awesome customer service as well.

Do you have a person size door? My garage didn't and it sucked. The problem is now fixed... I also used to keep my tools at one end of the garage and spent lots of time moving between the project and the tools. Now I keep everything in the middle in a roll around bench/tool box. Projects go faster as the tool is always within reach. Something like this with a nice top on it would be sweet:

My guess is that went out of the country.

Start it. Drive it. If you love it, fix it. If you hate it, sell it. It's that easy.

TTT, still looking for a set of 240z castings.

If you really want to stiffen the front end I'd go with something like this. The tower brace just connects one flexy thing to another flexy thing on only one axis.

Maine plates?! We need to have some kind of a classic New England Z meeting/drive next year. There might only be like 12 of us, but hey, it's a start.