auxilary

Walking the line, testing the alphabet, touching nose, etc, aren't aimed at at just to see how drunk a person is.... but specifically to build up blood flow and distribute alcohol more evenly through your system so that the blood test, if necessary, will turn up more likely to be positive

Hah! i stand corrected, I guess, assumption is the mother of all screwups. on a side note, you still didn't defend yourself for liking that ...thing!

Could be worse, dude...she could think Fred Durst is the hottest thing to hit the States since sliced bread. Besides, don't forgot that at 14 years old, everything kids learn and say they like is gathered acquired taste from the biggest social place they attend - school. She likes it because she wants to fit in and as a 14 year old (Like most kids) has no sense of individuality until later in life. Sadly, it's those people the majority considers outcasts and "social rejects" that have a sense of individuality and know how to think for themselves. Unfortunately, their individuality is not developed to a point where they can be independent - and instead this early development is overtaken and clouded by the need to fit in with peers... Basically it's like Sysiphus syndrome

depends on how you are on the sexual content w/ your parents. Example - my old roomie's gf's dad would says while someone's drinking a glass of water "you know, fish f#ck in that!"

in california, declining to test for blood alcohol content automatically counts as admission of guilt. consequences of a DUI are usually license suspension between 6 months to 2 years, 2 years probation, and it stays on your record for 7 years as a misdemeanor first offense. Get a lawyer

HAHAHHAH!WTF!? Stock spoiler on the hood? How does he open it? That's worse than most ricers!

ended with 6100, reserve not yet met... well, he probably has reserve at 10k, not worth it, imo

it looks like this: but won't be out for a little while. first mod - chop hte rear fender

sold my crotchrocket today. I felt pretty bad handing over the keys, that bike was great. But the new owner is a good guy, he'll take care of the bike well, and he wasn't a squid - which is why I was glad he bought it. The new owner pictured above, and the last pic of my YZF600R... thou shall be missed a lot! But makes way for the 2003 suzuki sv1000s

hahahahha!

Owen: front downforce - most race prepped mid-engined cars have front cowls like that.

Also, back onto the topic - what the mustangs and camaros have going for them is that parts are cheap and available at any kragen/schucks/checkers/pepboys/autozone/napa/etc

Here's the best combination of both worlds: Power to weight ratio's there 3200 lbs (stock CRX is about 1800 lbs) Powertrain Front: Completely Stock and Functional Honda CRX 4-Cylinder Engine (front wheel drive) Front Engine Drives Air Conditioning, Alternator and Water Pump Rear: 468 cubic inch Oldsmobile V8, roller cam, 4-71 supercharger Hilborn 4-port fuel injection Separate Gas Pedals (one is a flip down) Shifters for Each Engine Fuel Front Engine: Standard Gasoline Rear Engine: Racing Gas (CAM2) Three Fuel Tanks - Two for the Front Engine, a Single Five Gallon Tank for the Rear Drivetrain Front: Stock Honda Automatic Tansmission Rear: Toronado Turbo 425 with 10" Racing Converter and 3.08 Gear Ratio Cooling System One Radiator in Front for Both Engines - Coolant Supplied via Common Piping System Exhaust Front: Stock Honda Single-pipe Exhaust Rear: Zoomie Headers (Straight Pipes) Suspension Front: Stock Honda Front-End Suspension Rear: Coil Over Independent Tube Chassis Built from the Firewall back Wheelie Bars Tires Rear: 15" Mickey Thompson Street Tires Performance No formal time tests have been made yet, but owner estimates 0-60 in about 2-2.5 seconds, 1/4 mile at 9.25 and 160 mph on about 1000 HP. It handles perfectly straight up to 130 mph - top speed so far. This car does NOT sit in the garage and look pretty. It drives around town and looks "surprisingly normal." That is, until the rear engine is fired up...

kidvid: sure, it's possible - i've seen it done, and ridden in a 425whp integra before (that thing truly was a rocket), but it's still cheaper and better to do the mustang route than the civic route. Why? reliability and stress on components. Quite honestly, honda blocks are the WEAKEST when it comes to introducing forced induction. The block itself is light, thin cylinder walls, and with introduction of positive manifold pressure, they don't last for a long time. A turbo kit runs about 3k minimum (greddy/draggen3/etc), about same for a supercharger (JRSC/Vortec), a block that would also have to be built up (lowered compression/pistons/rods/etc) would run about 3k for bare, and about 600-800 worth of additional parts. So we're looking at about 4k for block and tranny, 3k minimum for the turbo kit, 7k. Let's say you find a little beater CRX for 1500. What else is needed to withstand the new power? -slicks, because a 10second fwd car will NOT be able to get ANY sort of traction through first 4 gears. add another 500-600 for wheels, spacers (because honda offset is 40mm+ typically) and slicks -once you introduce slicks, what's the first thing that's going to break? - the transaxles! now you need stronger components there too, add another 500. We're at 9500 so far on the bare minimum requirements -10 second cars require full rollcages - chalk up another 500. we're at 10k now. -stock clutch isn't going to take that abuse at all - chalk up another 500 or more for a good one. -limited slip IS required. a quaiffe unit is about a grand. -more things add up like the fuel pressure regulator that doesn't come with turbos, the much needed intercooler which will be another 800-1000, the exhaust system, new heavy duty injectors, etc. That's just the basics, and the cost soars above 14-15k without a problem... and this will only net your 11s on the strip for now....a lot more work is needed to be in 10s. A mustang is much simpler. you already have a large block (compared to honda) to work with. You can buy a beater mustang for 1500-2000, rebuild the 5, convert it to carb setup, put on a set of slick, plop in a rollcage, exhaust, a blower, and wham. (ok, so the mustang bit isn't THAT easy, but close!) the main advantage a mustang has is that it is already RWD, it already has a relatively strong rear diff that can withstand the abuse, and the gearing can be changed to 4.11:1, which will net quite a difference alone in stock trim. The mustang may have the weigh gain, but you can strip more out of a mustang than you can from a CRX, and the mustang is going to have less traction issues /better launch than the crx. You're starting out with a block that has over 300 ft lbs of torque, vs. a motor with 1/3 that.

BUt but but... saturns and sunfires have bigger displacement engines than civics. 2 liter for saturn, 2.2 (or 2.4 for older gen) sunfires

here's the funny part - link is from clubsi - where the guys voiced same exact comments you guys did all of them

it is according to these idiots, anyways! http://manifestation.org/~ill/fs/upload2/UCFcarArticle.jpg

http://www.m1stang.com/ now you too can own a ford mustang convertable coupe for your MIATA. It's just like the original, only slower, worse looking, more expensive, etc etc

hey guys, since I can't afford to buy the new tires at the moment, I figure I'll pass it on to you. www.tirerack.com is selling yokohama avs intermediates for dirt cheap - 205/60/15 tires are 46 bucks a piece! (I paid 68/each for my neon 2 years ago for 195/60/14!). The avs intermediates are replaced by avs es100 tires, which are better - but the deal on the intermediates is a very good one. I'd buy the tires if I had the cash, which I don't. Tires handle very well, they're quite sticky (i ran thunderhill raceway and some autocrosses on them) and I squeezed out about 25k out of 160tread wear tires

it can, but not for long. how much torque/power are you planning on putting through the stock rear diff? And is this for daily driven, or for track - because once you add in slicks, that rear diff will grenade because you now add massive traction into the equation. just an fyi, there are R200 3.36 geared rear differentials - they're somewhat rare, but they can be attained. The 3.54 geared ones are pretty good for that combo, though. my 2 cents -alex

I think I just creamed my pants. Half naked bike with partial fairings, vtwin.....mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm numnumnumnum! The rear fender has to go though, it just looks like a rooster tail! This might very well be my next bike

I would like to chime in, as I have the exact same dillema. In fact, I've brought this up already, and you guys can check out my thread on sr20det vs. lt1 swap from a few months ago: http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=002324&p= Basically it breaks down as such so we don't have to argue: sr20det pros: -lighter weight -better weight distribution -good track motor -can handle lot of boost on stock bottom end, overengineered, and stock boost can be doubled without any sideeffects -most parts interchangeable between sr20de motor found in sentra se-r and infini g20 sr20det cons: -might have to change front springs due to not enough weight pushing them down -turbo lag due to small displacement rb25det pros: -can handle gobs of power in stock form -almost a direct bolt in with z31 mounts and some fabbing -retaining little better than stock weight distribution (slightly lighter) -cheap to buy (i found the motor, tranny, ecu, wiring harness for 2,500) rb25det cons: -where does one go for parts? and how much will they cost? expect to have a new one torn on pricing rb26dett pros: -do we really need to list the pros? we all know what they are rb26dett cons: -you can't buy a whole rb26dett assembly - gotta play mix-match with rb25 tranny, rb25/rb20/rb30 oilpan for clearance -again, cost of replacement parts and their availability if anything happens. Back onto the soapbox - in defense of the sr20det motor, it's a great motor. It's light, it's smaller, leaving more room in the engine bay so placement of the intercooler and piping can be more liberal. It will also give about 45/55 weight distribution which is desirable to some who prefer closer to mid-engine feel in an FR layout car. As far as the argument goes of putting a smaller displacement motor int he Z than the original - bs. the stock j-spec silvias come with sr20dets stock, and those cars have at least 300-400lbs on a 240z. A subaru impreza wrx weighing in at some 3100lbs is powered by a flat 4 turbo motor, which is also limited by the fact that there are THREE catalytic converters on the block, and it's awd. Same goes for the DSMs - 2 liter turbo motor. In short, if a motor is built to handle boost from factory, it can handle, and probably a lot more than the factory settings are set to because the manufacturer doesn't want to be held liable for any internal breakdowns. Not everyone is building their Z to be a 1/4 mile racer - if I have turbo lag, it doesn't bother me because I'm not dragracing the car. When I'm on the track, the turbo lag is non-existant because the motor is always over 4000rpm, keeping the turbo pumping more and more. ok, off the soapbox. personally, i'm really leaning into the rb25det swap - it seems like the best idea so far.

Fastest I took my 240Z was indicated 115mph, which was about 107mph. At 60mph, I am doing exactly 55mph. Limited to R200 at 3.54 gearing w/ the stock 4 speed. my bike, I took to indicated 150 and it still kept pulling - i decided to let off

William Shatner playing paintball! William Shatner's paintball gun Conclusion - william shatner is a HUGE NERD! but major props for playing pb