auxilary

Well, take these one by one: Kito: it looks like this: I could bump it up to 12.5:1 CR, but the problem is that we're limited to 91 octane, and it'd be borderline hiccup, knock sensor would pick up and retard the timing, so 12.5:1 would be somewhat useless. 80LT1: too late. But my license plate frame does read "Factory stripes add horsepower." Right now the car is probably capable of 15.1-15.0 runs, imo. But I'm not going to drag is because it's my daily transportation Last time I ran was 15.6@90mph with intake only, everything else was stock. Also, note the stiffness of stock neon chassis (why do you think it kicked everyone's ass in autox? ) The neon is lifted by the jack at the point right behind the front pass. wheel. Notice the gap between the rear tire and the floor. There's nothing holding up the car in the center or the rear. Tony: I'd like to do that, but that would cost far more money than I'm planning on spending, and it won't fit - it'll require new custom mounts, hack up of a crossmember, new reverse cowl hood (2.4L is 1" taller than stock neon hood), and it'd be an incredibly tight fit. personally, what I would love to do is convert it to rwd way down the line (4-5 years from now if i still have it) and plop either a 318cid v8 in it, or a renesis motor.

not Z related. My daily driver is a 99 dodge neon r/t. I bought it 4 years ago thinking that it'd make a great cross platform for daily driving and autocrossing/track racing: which is did, more or less. The car's fun to drive, and has its share of tweaks and complaints (more the dealer than the car). I just got to a point where I decided that modifying the car would be dumb because it would soon become not very street legal, and it only can offer so much potentionl. So, as of the Z, it was downgraded to daily driver status, and I haven't modified it in over 2 years. The idea: the stupid mod bug got me again. I put the reinforced motor mounts back in and took the filter condom off the k&n. The mounts took care of a nasty exhaust leak I had, and now the car has oomph once again (for a 2 liter pos dodge, anyways). It's approaching 90k miles (70k now) and it's time for a timing belt change. At the same time I want to pull the motor and rebuild it. The problem: should I actually rebuild the motor with performance in mind? I will definitely do new valve train, springs, lash adjustors, etc from a PT cruiser (much stronger) and do the rings, seals, and bearings, and probably a new alum. water and oil pumps (on a neon they're gear driven). Gaskets are of course included along with the belt. Now, should I actually do something stupid like spend more money on 10.5:1 pistons, new connecting rods, reground cams and cam gears? This will cost me an additional grand or so, but should I do this to my daily driver? Also throw in 300-400 bucks for a new clutch since I'll have everything out. downside: spending money on my neon that I could be spending on the Z. the timing belt has to be changed anyway, and I still have to tear the motor apart to replace the bearings and rings. right now the car has a 33% smaller underdrive pulley, intake, mopar street header, mopar ecu. currently I can manage about 30mpg on avg 70% hwy 30% city driving, which is why it's a daily driver.

if you're using the stock 4 lug 4x114.3 setup, you should be able to just put in new longer studs, and use an 84/5 300zx 4 lug rotor (11 3/8) with the same bolt pattern.

seriously. but that's so funny on so many levels

I find it hilarious that the moron ihateallmustangs refers to the Fiero as the chick magnet, the 1st gen camaro and the 240z as trailer trash cars. It's kind of ironic, don't you think?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2400159091

this is a one of a kind... http://www.wiredvideo.com/public/video/techtv-blooper.wmv HAHHAHAH

actually, you're not saving bandwidth - they're still loading at full size/resolution. You scaled them down through HTML tags, but the file size remains unchanged when it loads up. resize the pictures through an image editing program, or simply put up links to them.

typical configuration was 3.545:1 for manual, and sometimes 3.9:1 for automatics, but i think that was fairly rare. easier way is chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of the car, put it in neutral, mark the driveshaft, and count how many turns it makes in comparison to 1 full rotation of the rear wheels. ie. if the driveshaft makes 3.5 turns to rear wheel making 1 full turn, the ratio is 3.5:1

the metal portion of the lines i bent myself. i picked up several 8" copper tubes from kragen with fittings on them, and got a bending tool for 7 bucks from napa. bent my own that work very well

wheels? talk about best power/weight ratio!

the reason you don't want to do both is that you may wind up extending it too much and stressing teh balljoint to a point where it might snap on the outside wheel through a hard turn

Let's say the car is not lowered enough to compensate for both spacer and ca pivot relocation, ie. 1" or so. Putting a spacer on will lower the outer end of the control arm by 3/4". Moving the pivot point will also decrease the angle between the control arm and the strut. now, as the angle decreases, the only thing that joins the strut housing with control arm is the balljoint, and with inside angle increased (pivot point relocation the balljoint is angled more than it's supposed to be. Now, let's say the person's entering a hard right turn, all the weight pitches to the outside on the left side. Left side suspension compresses, and majority of hte weight is on the front left. The right side experiences alleviation, and the right control arm hangs lower, where the balljoint gets more stress as the suspension is not under pressure and is fully extended. There's a chance that the balljoint will either experience a lot of wear, or might eventually snap.

not a photoshop

Mike, am I wrong, or did someone mention once that the front control arms on the early Zs were of different length? Also, I'm aware that the driver's spring is longer than the passengers by 1/4" to compensate for driver weight

classic midrear engine throttle lift oversteer. he full took his foot off the gas quickly through the turn. the rear end pitched out

i think for 20 bucks you can get a set of new endlinks for msa or energy suspension.

update: i should mention that it was raining quite a bit that day, and the guy was out on the street with the sign. I only saw him in the area once - i've driven 4 times through the area since then - twice just today. He was nowhere to be seen, so I think he was actually someone down on his luck.

in the united states, the only true Type-R production model exists in the acura integra type R. it's a 2 door integra coupe, with the B18c5 motor displacing 1.8 liters and making 195hp at the crank. The car is also stripped of extra weight, comes with front and rear strut bars, limited slip differential, close ratio transmission and stiffer struts and springs. Also included are thicker sway bars, and 5 lug wheels (a true way to identify a type-r). it's a good autocrosser from factory/track car (for a fwd anyway.) with a good driver, it's capable of mid-high 14 sec. 1/4 mile times. A guy from a local club here ran 14.3 with intake and exhaust mods only. (i saw it at sac. raceway) in europe and japan type R accord exists with beefed up suspension and a bit more power, as well as civic type R, which makes 175hp.

very nice! and once again, thanks for helping me get my car back on the ground!

well, technically the box said "LECENSED"

thanks kevin and dan. (the following is not directed at you guys) I originally made the post to vent some dilemmas though, not to seek approval or disapproval from the hybridz family