auxilary

i used it on my front hubs as they had massive surface rust i couldn't remove. just don't use it on bare metal. it works same principle as por15, making/converting rust into a safe sandable surface, but it's not a paint equivalent. make sure to use paint over naval jelly

wtf? what do they call these? clusterf#ck wheels?

are you sure an acid dip is something you want to do? acid trapped in small pockets, crevaces and cracks can stay there for a long time after the dip, and affect chassis rigidity.

TimZ: to help get rid of some of that annoying bumpsteer since my Z is lowered on GC coilovers. my balljoints sit higher than the pivot point on a horizontal scale

when measuring distance to relocate the front control arm pivot point on the crossmember, do you measure from center of the old hole to center of the new hole, or from top of old hole to the bottom of the new hole? reason i'm asking if it's measured from center to center, the effective moving distance between the edges of 2 holes wouldn't be 3/4", but more like 1/4." and another ridiculous question: i assume "bumpsteer" spacers fit on top of the steering knuckles, not underneath?

http://download.consumptionjunction.com/multimedia/cj_13928.wmv chainsaw!

i stand by my "videotaped sex" comment

buy an exact same make model of the cassette, place exact copy of the label on it, switch, destroy old tape

gotcha. thanks for the input, guys

why don't you just take the tape, destroy it, and dispose of it. if the evidence isn't present, what are they going to do? and I said, GET A CONVERTER FOR THE TAPE. it looks like a VHS tape with a slot in it to insert the 8mm tape into. they sell them so you can watch 8mm tapes in your vcr.

get an 8mm to vhs converter, put it in your vcr and hit rewind then record. also, next time don't videotape yourself having sex

john, here's what it looks like now (photoshopped pic) White area is the original angle positioning of the spindle. i photoshopped it and moved it to the location it's at now. Notice, the whole assembly bent, not the spindle itself. in fact, the spindle is still in tact and the car is drivable (no, i'm not driving it anywhere but the shop!) DavyZ was with me, he can vouch for the damage since he stuck his head in the wheelwell

when i put my studs in, i primed/tapped them in place lightly to make sure the stud's vertical threads lined up, and that it went in properly before I pulled it in. hopefully it won't cause problems, and I did this on the rears only. the front studs are probably stock

you could do what I did. 280z airdam on a 240 with motorcycle turn signals.$20 in parts

of course, i don't condone use of JBweld in such use, which is why i said that best way would be to weld a piece in, how it should be done. i see the valid point you guys make, i just wanted to run the idea by to see what responses it gets. heliarcing would also be more beneficial, obviously an easier and lighter mod than my idea. although, i don't see how it would absorb road impacts since the spindle assmebly is welded, not bolted in with flex in mind. if it flexes, it won't bent back on its own, and constant heavy duty abuse would yield worse bends. as far as i can tell, it's not a flexible rebound construction piece. Mark, i see your point clearly, which is why i said earlier along with what you stated. this would be quite suitable for a car running time trials at a local road track, provided no accident occurs.

so, having my car being smacked into by a BMW made me think. The front spindles on the 240z are relatively weak and have a rather weak point that can bend. My car was hit from the side, the other guy's bumper hitting the top of my (well, davyz's actually) rim, and the whole wheel acted a giant lever and bent my spindle. My wheel is now at about neg. 10* camber, with spring partially folder and my illumina likely gone as well. Anyway, back to the point. I have realized how weak the spindle attachement is to the strut tube, so I was thinking - there's copious amount of space betwee the spindle/brake mount and the strut. Granted, 3200lbs of metal hitting the side of a Z is the most extreme measure... but what if that region was filled? This would prevent eventual wear and possible cave in from hard cornering and maybe that occasional time you catch unwanted air and toast your bearings and possibly bend the spindle. This would also aid those running wider track from wheel spacers. The poorman's way of doing it would be to buy JB weld putty and form a shape to fill that gap. This would prevent the spindle from moving up at all, as there would be a solid piece of steel (or equivalent). JB Weld way would be about $15 worth of jb weld, and an hour work of work including waiting for it to harden. of course, a piece could also be designed to be welded in, which is how it should be done. I understand that nissan engineers intended for the piece to fold in in case of an impact, which is why the unit is not a solid construction. This would also imply that in case of an accident similar to mine, the brake would also be ruined upon impact, instead of being completely intact as mine was left. Is this a relatively stupid idea, or is it worth putting some thought into? the weld-in spacer would go where the red tint is on the picture.

john, what's the proper way of putting studs into a hub? I admit, I used the improper impact gun/washer method. Right now I have to change them out anyways because of the accident I was in.

Try Chewlie's gum! sorry, couldn't resist!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1873526968

Bob is right. you have to draw a line somewhere between daily use and street drivability and project racer. You will NOT have a *stable* 10 second car that's "semi-economic" and daily driven. $5000 isn't going to get you into those numbers either. the words semi economical and 500+hp don't really go together, especially for an sr20det. true, the motor can handle a lot of power, but over 350, things will start breaking - you can't just turn up the boost. and building a 2 liter 4 banger to handle that much power will cost you 5k alone, if not more. don't forget that you'll also have to replace the stock turbo with something much bigger. (and turbochargers aren't cheap) Honestly, if you want economy, daily drivability, and to get into 10s for 5k, best route is a used yamaha r6.

you mean this? http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=002486

Label it as a Diablo and try to sell it on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1873240363 someone in texas go nuke that POS

if you microsoft office, it comes with microsoft frontpage, which should be decent enough to create a basic layout and design for a webpage. you'll need to have a hostname registered with a DNS (domain naming service) that will resolve it, and you'll need a server to host the domain so there's a place to store for the html files you create. Aside from that, create a basic index.htm file (this is the default file for initial webpage) with your content, and decide from there what you'd like to do. it's a good idea to draw out a spanned tree diagram first of what links to what

rumored to be jato powered

hell yeah