auxilary

swapping in new headers, apparently

would YOU get under that firebird?

do you have any freaking idea how good your car looks? WELL? DO YOU!? my car looks crappy compared to that. And I am still a stock inline 6er....

went to SJ yamaha to pick up my replacement speedo cable (mine broke) and as I am getting into my car, there's an asian kid with tattoos up and down his arms on an R6 (obviously, no gear save for helmet) about to leave the service lot. The mechanic tells him to be careful because the tire is slippery since it's new, and not to hammer on hte throttle. The traffic clears up, and the kid nails on the throttle, takes the turn too wide, goes 3 feet into the opposing lane of traffic right in front of a truck, barely misses the truck's bumper (he would be dead instantly), recovers into his own lane. The fun isn't over yet, as soon as he gets back into his lane, he nails the throttle, the rear tire breaks loose because it's new and very slippery, he almost lowsides the bike, barely recovers with pure luck, and continues through the traffic light. The mechanic and I stand there with eyes bulging out going 'what a freaking idiot' . I was actually hoping he'd wipe out so I could laugh. Downside is insurance goes up. Upside is that if that did happen, he would have no chance at reproducing. Sad to see that natural selection didn't take place and eliminate the bad genes from the pool

this could not have come at a better time!!!!!!!!!! I was at apex motorsports today, and there was a black viper with blue stripes. Upon closer examination, it had a Hennessey Venom 650. I told my friend "wow, a viper that hasn't been hennescrewed!" and upon that exclamation, one of the guys from apex motorsports came out and said "did I hear someone say "hennescrewed?" So we started talking and turns out that the Hennessey venom 650 viper in front of us only put down about 575@ the crank (talk about boasting wrong numbers!), and the viper blew the headgasket, which was supposed to have been covered by Hennessey Motorsports. Of course, hennessey didn't live up to his end of the bargain on the warranty, and the viper sat around immobile for a while. Apex Motorsports just finished putting a replacement head in along with replacing all the damaged valves, etc. Just goes to show you that Hennessey sucks donkey nuts! and now I've witnessed it first hand

BWHAHAHHAHAHAH! http://www.rotordiscs.com/main_page.htm ahhahahahahhahahah whew... gotta breathe... BWHHAHAHHAHAHAHHAHAHHA!

ROFL! true, my peak power peaks at around 12,500rpm. Redline is 13-15k

I've had that happen to me. I just finished maintenance on my yzf, took it for a quick spin to run the new oil through and heat up the chain. Pull up to a light next to a stock green civic EX. The guy revs on me. I am thinking "what the crap is wrong with you?" Light turns green, he hammers it. I am cruising (and I mean, cruising) next to him while he's going balls out in 1.6 liters of sohc vtec fury. I got tired (still in first), nailed it, almost popped a wheelie (felt the front get really light), nailed it into 2nd, and shut down about 70. THEN! The bastard has the nerve to do a ricer fly by on me, and flash his hazards at me and flip me off as if he'd won. My 600cc bike puts down about as much power as his civic does to the wheel in stock form, and mine's not stock. Oh, and not to mention the whole 600lbs with rider vs. 2800lbs with driver weight difference. and gearing.

HAHHAH! OWNED!

haha maybe you can help him he's in sacramento

the 6 speed is weaker than the 5. the tranny dimensions are the same, but there's an extra gear, and to make room for it, engineers thinned out the other 5 gears

I have about 6 computers. 1 main, 1 server, 1 linux, 1 laptop, 1 old school gaming machine, 1 test box. if it's your CPU that's fried, I have a p2-450 slot1 cpu w/ fan I can send you for you to get by if you need it. What happened? do you get any video? Any beeps? Does the system show anything, crap out anywhere? Just no power at all? give me more clues, maybe I can help. Or shoot me an email aux@highrpm.org, i'll give you my # to call if you need me to help you out (not picking on skills, just offering help )

Those are some funky wheels

Damon: I'm not interested in the sr20det because of the 'import scene' I just see it as one of the better options for a car that can be well balanced and light. Also, on a sidenote, the 6 speed isn't the better option for the sr20det because it's the same size transmission as the 5 speed (same bellhousing, etc) but the gears are made a little thinner than the 5 speed to squeeze the extra gear in there. Unfortunately, that also weakens the transmission overall since the gears are thinner. Lone: Oh, believe me, I am aware of v8zs I've driven Mike D's (73botiz) Z, Don Manzo's 11 sec monster, and leonard took me for a spin in his 327 powered Z. I definitely don't doubt the torque and power of the motors. It's just for general reasons that the sr20det seems like a good option. I built the car primarily for handling, it still needs a little work, but right now, it does pretty well even on crappy tires. (ask davyz, he's driven it several times). Oh, and to answer your question, it's true: the stock bottom end on the sr20 motor can hold up to abuse of 500hp. Davy: i know i know I am still debating, but it's just that the turbo idea seems unique and prospective. (it's still a hybrid, right? hehe). My friend introduced another idea also - a ka24 motor with a custom turbo. THat's the 240sx (US Spec) 2.4L inline 4 block with a custom f-max turbo kit that is produced for about 2500. But that might turn out to be slightly more costly. A destroked LT1 is a good idea, and I'm not leaving that option out. After thinking about it, either motor will have to be rebuilt anyways, and performance components will be added to either. In that case, SR20DET still stands as a strong contender because a rebuild will yield ability to crank up the boost higher, and possibly replacing the turbo with a bigger unit. At the moment, it's all future planning, and project won't be started until I have a steady job and a garage I can hog up for at least 6 months. Thanks for your guys' input! ps. and Davy... i'm your FODDER for t-hill? BWHAHHAHAH! Good one We'll just have to wait and see which is the better driver, won't we?

thanks randy! I'll definitely hit you up when I'm ready. you going to the norcal bbq in july?

i hate you guys. I live in an apartment, and to do the suspension work on my Z i wound up borrowing my pop's garage!

I am now very heavily swayed towards an sr20det motor for the Z. It can be had quite cheap, and it's a good track motor due to its weight and positioning in the bay. I already have most of everything needed for a v8 swap (originally planned for an lt1/t56 combo), got the JTR kit minus the speedo cable, camaro alum. radiator, etc. The post for best track motor in alternate L6 forum gave me the idea and i've been doing some research. Downside is fabbing new mounts for it, and custom driveshaft SR20DET, the 2.0 liter 4 banger silvia turbo motor from japan. I've checked around prices, and it's not all that expensive. There are laws in japan that tax cars with over 35k miles or so, so the imported engines all have under 40k on them, which is just basically broken in. an sr20det from an s13 (90-94 240sx) with a 5 speed tranny ECU and wiring harness is 2400. an sr20det from an s14 (95-98 240sx) with a 5 speed tranny ECU and wiring harness is 3500. the S15 ('99-present) motor comes with a 6 speed, limited slip r200, halfshafts and driveshaft for 5k. here are the specs on the motors: S13 SR20DET: Displacement: 1998cc (2.0 liter) Cam type: DOHC 16 valve, chain driven cam sprockets Bore and stroke: 86mm x 86mm Compression: 8.5 : 1 Horsepower: 205hp at 6000rpm Torque: 203 ft/lbs at 4000rpm Stock boost: 7 psi Throttle body bore: 60mm Turbo specs: Injector size: 370cc/min Compressor: T-25, 60 trim 56mm BCI-1 compressor. Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing. Center Section: Journal bearings Aluminum alloy block and head with steel alloy sleeves. Distributorless, crank angle sensor activated ignition, direct fire coil packs. Stock SR's come with an internal wastegate, a knock sensor, a side mounted intercooler and a bypass valve that is routed back into the intake after the MAF before the turbo. Stock turbo outlet is 1 7/8 inches, inlet and throttle body are ~2 1/2 inches. Performance: The stock turbo will be safe to 13-15 psi. After that, the turbo is past its efficiency range, and power increases will fall off and are not worth the risk of turbo damage. The engine should produce 230-250 RWHP at safe boost. Required Parts for the install: Engine, transmission, alternator, starter, power steering pump, Crank Angle Sensor, ECU, harness, MAFS, Power Transistor / Ignitor Chip. S14 SR20DET: Horsepower: 220hp at 6000rpm Torque: 203 ft/lbs at 4800rpm Turbo specs: Compressor: T-28, 60 trim 60 mm BCI-1 compressor in T-04B housing Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing. Center Section: Ball Bearing Variable valve timing system and a different turbo are the significant changes from the S13 SR20DET engines. S14 uses 'low port' intake design vs. S13 'high port' design. Performance: The stock turbo will be safe to 13-15 psi. After that, the turbo is past its efficiency range, and power increases will fall off and are not worth the risk of turbo damage. The engine should produce 250-260 RWHP at safe boost. Required Parts for the install: Engine, transmission, alternator, starter, power steering pump, Crank Angle Sensor, ECU, harness, MAFS, Power Transistor / Ignitor Chip. S15 SR20DET: Horsepower: 250hp at 6000rpm Transmission: 6 Speed, Close Ratio Injector size: 480cc/min Turbo specs: Compressor: T-28, 60 trim 60 mm BCI-1 compressor in T-04B housing Turbine: Inco turbine wheel. Cast divider wall between turbine discharge and wastegate. Center Section: Ball Bearing Additions: 6 speed manual transmission. The 6 speed can be used on the S13 and S14 motors with no modification using the S15 driveshaft. Speed sensor is located in the differential. Performance: The stock turbo will be safe to 15-18 psi. After that, the turbo is past its efficiency range, and power increases will fall off and are not worth the risk of turbo damage. The engine should produce close to 300 RWHP at safe boost. Required Parts for the install: Engine, transmission, alternator, starter, power steering pump, Crank Angle Sensor, ECU, harness, MAFS, Power transistor is built into each coil. S15 differential and Driveshaft. This isn't too expensive, a light block, and those ratings (pre boost raise) are without intercoolers, I think. The fact that the block's built to handle ample amount of power is nice, with 8.5:1 CR the boost can be almost doubled from 7psi stock. Cheap increase of nearly 50 whp say I decide to go with the s14 motor, 220hp stock, crank the boost to about 10-12 and be happy with 240-250rwhp. (rice math? Eh, probably not). I'd swap out the rear diff (ugh...not again!) to something like 3.9/4.11 limited slip then. Your guys' opinions? Wrong forum? (I figured i'd ask chevy folk for devil's advocate opinions:) )

never autox on a course with a lot of trees. right click, save as

does role reversal really help in getting to know your dog better?

shouldn't this topic be in another forum?

Confirmed: post from sfbreaks board (darius himself)

you might wanna put a warning on those

jumbo30@attbi.com

pete: the aiwa mp3 player is pretty inexpensive, but stay away from it. speaking from experience, and davy can confirm - they suck more than a teenage girl on a prom night. Mine pauses at any minor bump, and it's my 2nd unit. It's a crappy design. pioneer, jvc, kenwood, sony, and alpine make good ones

is the wiring the only thing holding you back? I wouldn't give up the LS1 for that, I think you should get some manuals, and sort it out and get it done. It's attainable, or ask people who have done the LS1 swap on the board, that's what they're here for