auxilary

yeah, except they don't do it annually. before '73 it was '65 for the cut off year. as soon as that was moved to 73 about 5 years ago, tons more old muscle cars started showing up on the street

quote: Originally posted by auxilary: if you want the 350/t56 combo, you may just want to go to a salvage yard and get a combo of the lt1/t56 out of a 94-97 firebird transam/camaro Z28. it'll be the best option because they'll include the wiring harness, slave/master cylinders, ecu, and etc. Plus, it's already assembled and in running condition, and they'll usually give you a guarantee as for mounts, the jTR manual has exact specs on how to make your own, or you can buy them from stealth conversions (jtr subsidiary, i think), and they're listed on their site (also in the manual) www.jagsthatrun.com oops. wrong link. correct one above [ July 28, 2001: Message edited by: auxilary ]

if you want the 350/t56 combo, you may just want to go to a salvage yard and get a combo of the lt1/t56 out of a 94-97 firebird transam/camaro Z28. it'll be the best option because they'll include the wiring harness, slave/master cylinders, ecu, and etc. Plus, it's already assembled and in running condition, and they'll usually give you a guarantee as for mounts, the jTR manual has exact specs on how to make your own, or you can buy them from stealth conversions (jtr subsidiary, i think), and they're listed on their site (also in the manual) www.jagsthatruns.com

I have a '73 240Z, and no, you don't have to smog it. 73 is the last cut off year, 74 and up you have to register.

I was just reading through the JTR book the other night about radiators after talking with DavyZ, and they advise against aluminum radiators because they tend to crack within a year of use? I'm not doubting JTR, but I wanted to see what your guys' feedback is, especially if the car's built to run street and track, and not just track.

you can either construct a heatshield like most stock cars have, or you can do header wrap. I'd advise against the last one because your headers won't be able to disperse heat well, and will eventually become brittle [ July 15, 2001: Message edited by: auxilary ]

Update. Took the car into the dealer today, and the guy calls me back and tells me the car's perfectly fine within factory specs. I asked him about injectors, and he said it was fine because it didn't spit out any error messages from the ECU. What a numbnut! I could've told him that myself, I can check my own error codes. I was thinking, since the cylinders 2 and 3 are running hotter, they are actually running richer, not leaner. The higher temp output is because the unburnt fuel is igniting in the header pipes, causing the gasket to cook. Tomorrow I'll swap injectors on cylinders 1 and 2 as a test and to a pyro reading on the header pipes off those cylinders. If the temps change, I have leaky injectors.

Wow, that is sweet. Excellent G-Nose conversioN! of course, I'll see your black Z and raise you another black Z! Oh come on! Like that wasn't expected [ July 11, 2001: Message edited by: auxilary ]

I need NOS. Two bottles. Also, some Motek exhaust. sorry, couldn't resist

That sounds like a likely explanation. I don't think ECU had anything changed on it, it's been in the car for over a year prior to this incident. Granted, I may not have known about it until I replaced the stock cast iron exhaust manifold with a header. It could very well be bad injectors. Thanks for the tip.

No one else seems to know what's going on. Basically, here's the situation: my daily driver's a neon r/t, with intake, mopar ECU, mopar street header, and an underdrive pulley. (Relevant mods, anyways). The header's collector gasket got cooked a little while ago, and I had it replaced. The guy who did my exhaust confirmed that my car didn't feel like it was running right. Pyrometer readings on my header pipes were reading 220* on cyl 1 and 4, and 320* on 2 and 3! I know middle two cylinders run hotter, but 100* difference is a little much. The pre-cat O2 sensor from the header is immaculately clean, no deposits. The post-cat o2 sensor is somewhat burned with deposits. plugs are new, proper gap, and there are no exhaust leaks. The ECU isn't giving me any rich mixture failures. I am thinking maybe the throttle position sensor, or bad injectors? Neither TPS nor injector failure show up on the OBD II codes when I do a test. Truthfully, the car gets beat on a lot, has seen track, etc. But I also do proper maintenance on it. Car goes to dealer for inspection in 2 weeks (theyre booked), under extended coverage.

quote: Originally posted by Fraga280: auxilary, Where in the bay are do you live... As soon as I saw those hills I knew you lived somewhere near me... Fraga I'm in fremont, actually. Pic's from calaveras road

If you're referring to sport compact car, that magazine is excellent! for toilet paper substitute. A while back they did a comparison run of an integra gs-r and the 96-7 sn95 mustang GT, and labeled it as a domestic pushrod engine, with 30 year old engine parts... followed by thousands of letters telling them it was SOHC and they need to brush up on their knowledge. At least they got better the next time they did integra type R vs. mustang GT. (And the GT won, not that I'm a mustang fan) Actually, my friend Kris took that shot, so cudos to him: I only provided the car and the scenery hehe.

DavyZ: man, I don't think I'll get a chance to stop by any time soon: the car goes up next week on jacks for a little while so I can put bushings/ground control coilovers/tokiko illuminas/outlaw brake stage I kit on, and MSA sway bars (they should come in in a few weeks). After that it'll be completely roadworthy. BLKMGK: if you think that's bad on the file size...the original pic was 2024x1650, and the size was cut down 50%. This was so I could make it a good background, and retain the whole quality of the picture. Sorry about the file size, but it can easily be cropped to 640x480 and be around 80k in size. It just looks way better this way Otherwise, eventually I'll do a JTR swap in it...just not any time soon. Need a job for that!

I would courtesy of my friend's new nikon coolpix 995. [ July 11, 2001: Message edited by: auxilary ]

well that bites. i'm a bit too far from you to pick it up

I'm no expert, but I'll give it a shot... pros of the LT1: -better fuel economy -efficient fuel management -you don't have to tinker w/ carbs to get the mixture right cons: -not as much potential as a carbed 350 block -costly pros of carbed 350: -more potential -cheaper -cheap parts available at any pep-boys, kragen, grand auto, autozone, etc. -less of a mess than an LT1 with wiring harnesses, ecu, etc. cons: -carb tuning -fuel economy (not like anyone cares!) just basics [ June 28, 2001: Message edited by: auxilary ]

just do (img)http://www.asheboro.com/users/picasso/relay.bmp(/img) (img)http://www.asheboro.com/users/picasso/volt.bmp(/img]) and replace () with []

Hey guys, I have a '73 240z, with a factory tach. When I turn over the ignition key to acc without starting the car, the needle will jump to 2-3k rpm. When the engine idles, it'll vary between 3-5k rpm (which is obviously false, it just shows 2-3k rpm more than the actual reading). Any ideas on what's going on?

DavyZ posted basically one of the questions I had, and I guess I got it partially answered, thanks to you guys... I have a '73 240z, it's bone stock right now, save for exhaust and dual webber carbs. I am going to eventually be doing the JTR swap into this, to make it a road race track machine to beat around laguna seca, sears point, and thunderhill, and occasional weekend driver. My next question is... what would be a good suspension set up for the Z? I was perusing the MSA catalog, and they have springs listed, but not the spring rates. What would be a good setup? I'd like to use the tokiko 5 way illuminas, as I've seen (and driven on) them perform quite well on my friend's RX-7 FC, which literally handled like a go-kart.

quote: Originally posted by DavyZ: It's just that they are black and kind of boring looking... In-cog-nito

What about polygraphite bushings? I was looking into those, and people have said they're less problematic than polyurethane when it comes to squeaking.

I picked it up in Sunnyvale, and it wasn't in any ads, actually. A friend of mine informed me that his friend of the family was thinking of selling it because he got a new toy (porsche 911 carrera), and was looking to eventually restore this car and sell it. He is a manager at a body shop, so obviously, the car is in good condition. What amazed me greatly is the fact that existing rust that was there when I first checked it out, the guy sanded out and repainted! He also buffed out the whole car, etc. There are some flaws (door handle on driver's side needs to be fixed, the hinge broke so I can't open the door from the outside), and the passenger side window roller broke off, as well as some loose parts of hte interior. The car also sat around without use for a year, but runs fine now. I changed out the oil (man it came out BLACK) today, and it runs a bit smoother. While under the car, I noticed that the bushings were completely dried out, and I could pick bits crumbling off with my hand...This would be #1 thing on my list to do, along with new struts. The rear diff mount is also torn, rear end clunks a bit when shifting gears. I am going to swing by Bill's (cobraZ) house tomorrow, he said he'd take a look at it with me.

ok, here's a pic of my car from today...enjoy!