auxilary

that depends on what you want to do? Auto or manual? MAX SCARAB 327 has a 4 speed muncie (right?). Common swaps include th350, th400 for autos, if you're going under 300hp, a camaro worldclass t-5 tranny is just fine, if you're looking at putting down far more oomph than that, borg warner t-56 (same as viper tranny) out of a 94-5 firebird transam or camaro z28 is desired.

most common swap is to put in a rear diff out of a 280z/zx (some 260s, although rare, have these too). The ring gear on the stock 240z is 180mm, hence r-180 designation. the 280z/zx have r200s in them (there are also some 280z's that have r180s, usually 75/76 years). The r200 is capable of holding up the increase power and torque, but usually it's the u-joints that give out. Common conversion is to do cv joint swap or swap in Motorsport Auto reinforced heavy duty u-joints. (their catalog is available at www.zcarparts.com ) r200 is easier to identify from r180 by its looks: the r180 is a smaller unit that looks closer to a smoothed out octagon, while the r200 has a larger, much more defined octagon that looks definitely like a stop sign from the rear (it also has sharper more defined edges). How much power/torque are you planning on putting out at the crank, and what kind of gearing are you planning to use? Remember that higher gearing (ie. 3.7, 3.9, 4.11, etc) only worsens the chance of failure. Typical stock gearing for r180 was 3.36 for the manual, 3.54 for the auto, and 280z/zx was 3.54 manual, 3.7 auto, with later variations. hope this helps.

you can get aircraft paint remover, that will take ANYTHING off. DavyZ introduced me to a product called "PEELER" which you basically spray on a clean grease free surface, wait 10 minutes, and brush it off with a parts cleaning brush or blast it off with compressed air (not PC can cleaner though ) works very well, we stripped my strut housings off factory paint this way

Thanks again! I called Hunter's sandblasting, and he quoted me $15 for both front control arms

last time i was at sacramento raceway, they had a viper day out (i guess a viper club came down). all of those who did the runs on street tires were all below 13 sec. some ran 12.4 sec runs

thanks, i'll try'em tomorrow...any ideas on the cost?

hey guys, wild shot here...but what's a good [cheap] place to get a pair of control arms sandblasted in the bay area? preferably local to fremont. thanks! edit: and i just called dando's, they don't do it.

speed's a question of money: how fast do you want to go? first thing you should do is buy a JTR manual so you have a general idea of what needs to be done. you can go the cheap way which is just stuff a block and tranny in and swap out the rear diff and run stock brakes and suspension, or you can build up the suspension, brakes and engine + tranny to work all together to make a much smoother (yet more expensive) machine

http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=001167 http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=001307&p= http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=001111&p=

how about IAM WEAK and see who races you

i bought my coilovers and tokiko 5 ways from gc directly, the whole setup shipped and taxed was like 976 to my door. $124/strut + 399/coilovers. My spring rates are 200 all around. If you're in stockton, you can save yourself time and shipping costs if you're willing to drive to shingle springs: they're about 30 miles north east of sacramento.

here's some info I dug up, it was originally by Ross C. quote: Want to know what gear ratio that Z rear end is, before you remove it from the car or install it in your Z? Take a buddy, and just turn it to find out. My dad and I have turned at least a dozen. Fix one rear wheel so it can't turn (pry bar and foot of the driveshaft counter, or jam it otherwise). Mark the driveshaft w/ chalk or scratch w/ a nail. rotate the other rear wheel 10 times, other person counts the driveshaft rotations. Then multiply the driveshaft rot's number by 2(and divide by ten I spose) and whammo its your diff ratio. If 10 turns gives you (x driveshaft rotations) just shy of 17, then its a 3.365 17.5 then a 3.54 18.5 then a 3.7 19.5 then a 3.9 Each difference is at least a whole number (except 3.36->3.54, but still 16 or 17?) so this always works for us. Don't forget to grab the speedo gear out of the tranny (one 10mm bolt), even though you don't need it (w/ a 700R4 for a V8 conversion), if you ever sell it it'll help out a Datsun dude. Others reccomend removing the rear cover plate and readig the ring gear. The number of teeth on the ring and pinion are stamped on the ring gear - so just divide one number by the other. The units I look at most of the time are still in the cars, so this "counting the turns" method works for me. here's also a reference guide quote: Differentials.... When checking the stamp on the ring rear, if you don't have 20/20 vision. Bring a magnifying glass. It really isn't easy to read. Also have a flashlight and some steel wool... just in case ya need to do a bit of cleaning. A shop rag is required as well. R180's and R200's with 3.364:1 gearing came in... 240 - 260 Z's / 1970 to 1974 - R180 280ZX 6/78 - 9/79 - R200 280ZX Automatics and turbo's - R200 Maxima Sedans Automatics - R180 Ring gear is stamped with 37:11 Math tip... 37 divided by 11 is 3.3636 R180's and R200's with 3.545:1 gearing came in ... 240Z - 280ZX Automatics - R180 280Z Manual - R200 280ZX Turbo w/Automatics - R200 Maxima Sedan Manual - R180 Ring gear is stamped with 39:11 R180's and R200's with 3.70:1 gearing came in ... 810 Sedan - R180 280ZX Manual from 6/78 to 6/79 - R200 300ZX Non-Turbo and Turbo's - R200 Ring gear is stamped with 37:10 R200 3.70:1 LSD – Clutch Pack – Finned Alum. Cover 300ZX Turbo only 1987-1989 R200 3.70:1 LSD Viscus 300ZX Turbo Only 1988 Cars are all White. Diff is Labeled. I’ve only heard of One person that knows How to install this in a 1st Gen Z – 240Turbo on Zcar.com I have seen other comments on other mailing listed that indicated that the expense to do this conversion will out weigh the benefits of performing this swap. Unless you have access to machine tool equipment, I would advise ya to swap to an lsd with clutch pack. Custom Mounting brakets – Dave in Portland, OR. Eric on the East Coast R180's and R200's with 3.90:1 gearing came in ... 720 4X4 1/83 to 6/83 - R180 280ZX Non-Turbo 1980-1983 - R200 200SX Turbo 1984 - R200 200SX V6 - R200 Ring gear is stamped with 39:10 R180's and R200's with 4.11:1 gearing came in ... 720 4X4 6/83 to 12/85 - R180 200SX Turbo 1985 to 1986 - R200 200SX Non-Turbo's 1984 to 1988 - R180 Ring gear is stamped with 37:9 This is only a reference guide... of course... things do happen to cars and rear ends do get changed out. So always measure with rotation. I use chalk make a white mark on the driveshaft. Do the same on the tire if its on, or whatever can be rotated. Place the mark at a point of reference. Like straight up or down. Then turn the drive shaft and count the turns. Do this for one full turn of the wheel/hub/rear half shaft. This will give ya a good guess as to what gearing is in the rear end. When you find something close.... then pull the rear cover and start looking for the marking on the ring gear. I am sure someone else can provide much better info than I.

haha damn. too late now. my tools for removing that pin consisted of penetrating lubricant, hammer, and a long rod.

Hehhe being a geek by profession, my neon's plates read TRY RTFM. for those unfamiliar, it's TRY READING THE F#CKING MANUAL

How soon is soon? I'm about to take my rear control arm bushings out, and i'm wondering if it's worth it to wait for your tool?

quote: Originally posted by DavyZ: Seriously, if Auxilary reads this and then comes over and snaps a shot of me, cool! I have nothing to hide, especially since I look like Mel Gibson...well maybe not Actually, I have a shot of you from the meet!

Your "Z" car? Since when are aussie falcons referred to as Z cars? "speed is a question of money - how fast do you want to go?"

DPG: for sources on engines, you can check out gm sport salvage in san jose, or rancho gm salvage in rancho cordova. http://www.ranchochevy.com/ A used carbed sbc 350 can be had for pretty damn cheap, like 700 bucks ready to run. Or, if you want to get a crate zz3/4 motor, that's slightly more expensive, say 1500 bucks or so. Heck, kragen sells 60-74 chevy small block v8s without heads or carbs for 600 bucks. But, it all depends on what your budget is. Depending on the Z you pick up, expect to do a LOT of work just preparing it for the v8 swap and fixing all the little issues and such. example: my Z was stock. i mean, stock stock: down to struts and springs. So my time right now is spent properly rebuilding the suspension on it completely (so i don't need to modify it the second time when the v8 comes). Same for brakes and etc.

I like to keep people on their toes... wait till you see my driver's license pic! great for scaring kids, but sucks when a cop pulls you over

coilovers aren't necessary, just if you want advanced options in the future. for a v8 swap, you'll just need to put stiffer springs in the front to compensate for the weight increase

yeap, those are ground control coilovers with tokiko illumina 5 way struts and 200lb/in springs all around. ordered directly from www.ground-control.com

2 coats of primer, 3 coats of cast aluminum engine enamel paint. yay or nay? it looks more silver when the sun's out

eibach springs are red (regular sportlines/prokit) and their rates are printed on the side. it'll say something like ' 10 000 250 200' first number is the spring length in inches (10") second is the diameter of the coil (2.5") last number is the spring rate (200 lbs/in) Stiff isn't necessarily bad if it's for track use most of the time. If your springs are too stiff, your butt and back will feel it if you're not driving on a smooth road. Any little bump will jolt through your back, but that's assuming the rates are 250-300lb/in. Just make sure that your don't kill the suspension travel and get right sized struts, and make sure the Z doesn't wind up hitting the bumpstops [ October 10, 2001: Message edited by: auxilary ]

To this! extended thanks to DavyZ for allowing me to pollute the area with harmful chemicals in front of his house instead of my own His way was slightly (read: quite a bit) faster than taking a wire brush to the struts (see the far left strut - that was 40 minutes of wire brushing on a drill) tomorrow - they go to the shop for sectioning and welding so i can put coilovers on [ October 09, 2001: Message edited by: auxilary ]

'73 240z, black -stock l24 -3" exhaust -dual webber down drafts components being installed right now (literally) -ground control coilovers -tokiko illuminas -scca's 4 piston toyota front kit -msa swaybars -p-s-t polygraphite bushings -r200 open diff, 3.54 ratio -aluminum crossflow radiator