DuoWing

Well after a whole lot of time being lazy. I decided to get back to painting my car. I sanded the body down and went cheap electric home depot spray gun with the rustoleum. It was alright, I think my problem was not waiting enough time in between coats, and not thinning the paint enough. It came out super orange peely. So I'm slowly working on wet sanding it smooth then putting on another coat or two with the roller so it'll look better, but I also decided to do my two tone idea. I sanded down the upper half of the car and decided to go black. I'm doing this start to finish with the roller. Honestly, it's taking longer, but the results just seem to be coming out better. What do you guys think so far? These shots were after a second coat. I just finished wet sanding, I'm letting it dry and getting ready to put on my third coat. I'm going to repaint that front valence thing in front of the windshield red. A member of Zdriver mentioned I should do it and after I stated looking at it I noticed that it does kind of throw off the balance. I painted that black along time ago when I was just first practicing with spray cans and I was debating on doing the whole car black. Oh and I'm also blacking out the trim around the windows, T-Tops, etc as it blends better. Then I'll finish it all up by painting the sidebumpers black, and either cleaning up or just painting the side molding black so it adds like a stripe to offset the red a little.

Cylinder Head Temp Sensor would be my first guess. As when they go bad it will just start making your car run really really rich. If you have a bad CHTS, but a good O2 sensor usually the O2 then can make up for the CHTS once warmed up. My car barely ran when cold with a bad CHTS.

Oh, the map was more for accurate measurements of Boost. I still have the MAF and everything, the MAP is just so I can keep a log on the boost/vacuum of the manifold along with everything else. Like I said I ended up going with the Zeitronix ZT-2 wideband O2. I figured I'm not about to start cutting fuel off my maps without someway to confirm the A/F ratios.

Alright guys it's been beaten to death I know. I've been searching and gathering things. I want to know if you guys can tell me if I'm on the right track and if you guys can provide me with an estimate here. Right now I'm running a stock 1983' L28ET with P90a head and auto tranny. Engine has a little over 96k original miles. NGK plugs BPR6ES-11 plugs, NGK wires. Pulled A/C belt, will remove the compressor soon. Blocked off AAC, VCV, still run the air regulator. Stock pump, remanned injectors, new CHTS, fuel pressure regulator, etc. Stock exhaust/downpipe. I've upgraded to a 1986' 300ZX ECU/MAF combo. Then I added Nistune into my 86' ECU and it's running the fuel maps, etc from an 88-89 Z31T ECU. I've also purchased myself a Zeitronix ZT-2 with Map sensor so I can monitor things and tune without trying to do it blindly and destroying my engine. After looking at the Fuel maps for the stock 88, I see high end load has aimed values of like 10.3:1 so I see that just by leaning the maps out some in the high end can pull more power on stock boost/turbo. I got myself an intercooler off of ebay, I'm going to get myself some piping shortly, I'm gathering a blow-off valve and electronic boost controller. Basically I'm wondering what would be the next direction to go? I'd like to get to 300hp eventually, but as a start I'd like to aim for 250hp, then once I hit that go up. From what I've read it sounds like this can be easily achieved on stock boost, I'd also assume with Nistune, and the Z31 MAF setup I should be able to tune my maps and get there alot easier than if I was trying to do this on just a stock efi setup. Basically can you guys direct me as which way to aim ie: how much boost I'd need to run to get to this goal? It sounds like the best upgrades you can do are the T3/T4 turbo, larger injectors, and a larger less restrictive exhaust.

Can someone help me out on this. I had no problem with my swivel extension and spark plug socket getting to the plugs and changing them out. I was able to get all my wires to click into place on the passenger side, and the first plug wire on the driver's side, but I can't figure out how to get enough push on the plug wires on the driver's side to click them into place. I know the one would probably be easier if I removed the AAC, but wouldn't that then require a new gasket?

Well, my taillights no longer leak, and from what I can tell my quarters don't either. I had no more water all over my hatch after a rain, but I did find one spot that was still wet. It was a spot that was dripping down into the spare tire well. I don't have a plug in it so the water runs out and as I've posted pics it's all painted so it's not a huge thing, but maybe you guys can help me figure it out. The only thing I can think of is that water is running from somewhere, maybe the passenger quarter still leaks a bit and water is running down to this spot? I couldn't find it wet anywhere else so I don't know. The only other thing I can figure is that little rubber stopper or whatever it is that's bolted right there is leaking a bit of water and it's running over to that little bend in the metal there where it then drips off? Edit: I think it was the nut that holds the window in place. I was looking at the writeup that was on Xenon's site and I noticed that in the picture the guy puts the butyl rope on the inside of where the studs/nuts would go. Most of the seal had expanded to fill it, but it looked like on the other side of that stud the seal hadn't made it around. There were some drops of water right around that nut on the inside of the car when I removed it. So I took some of that butyle rope and tried to jam it in that spot under the nut, and then tighten it down. Hopefully that does the trick.

One thing I forgot to ask, how does anyone feel about the Zeitronix ZT-2, I was searching and didn't find much in the way of opinions about it. As for the RPM converter, I believe if you link the Wideband up with Nistune that you can datalog your A/F ratio alongside the RPM? I could be wrong on this though as I don't have it yet. One thing I was wondering though, do you guys feel it's worth having an extra gauge set up in your car so you can see the AFR at whatever moment you may need to? That was one of the reasons why I was thinking of going with the LC-1 and DB gauge, I just don't really like the needle gauge when you could have the digital display telling you the exact number the O2 sensor is telling it.

I'm not sure where to post this, but I need to get a wideband, since I'll be running Nistune soon. Anyway I've been looking at either the lc-1 with the DB gauge, because I would like an in-car gauge for monitoring my A/F ratios, since I really won't always be able to watch a laptop while I'm driving. The LC-1 with the DB Gauge is about $280 where as the the base lm-1 is a little more at $299. Anyone have any recommendations which is better go with?

One thing that I can't seem to find a for sure answer on is whether or not the VG30DE(TT) will bolt right into a Z31. I've heard that the motor mounts are the same and then it's just minor fabrication/alterations to fit the piping and everything, but are the mounts the same between the VG30E(T) and the VG30DE(TT)? I've done searches, and usually come up with people saying do the VG30DET swap vs. the TT, but I can't seem to get a clear answer on the mounts.

Alright, well I went ahead and ordered Nistune type 1 board. I'm looking forward to getting it. Now since I'm still new to this stuff here's what I was wondering, I know I'm going to want a wideband to go with it, but my problem is I'm not sure what to go with. I've heard the LM-1/LC-1s are good setups, but basically I'm wondering what's the basic I'd need to monitor my A/F ratios and know what gear/RPM I'm at? Anyone have any good suggestions? Is there a cheap setup that would work good for this? Or would I be better off spending a bit more and just going with a better wideband setup?

Well after just browsing around I came across some threads and that inspired me to paint the window trim for my quarters. Before: After:

Interestingly enough my ZXT had a problem like this, which is why the previous owner ended up selling it. CHTS went bad, he bought a new one which turned out to be bad, but he didn't know it. I discovered this myself. After I had done practically everything I was left at a standstill. I had the receipt and him pointing out that the CHTS was new. I swapped it with the CHTS from my 176k 280ZX and it ran good for a bit, but was on it's way out and shortly after went bad. I finally bought one from MSA and finally got one that worked. It was weird that it wasn't until the 4th CHTS that it was one that finally worked.

I'd bet it is your igniter. That sounds like the classic symptoms. I'm not sure how you test it, I think I heard someone mention you could run a hotwire right from the battery to the coil to bypass and at least see if the car starts. They will do exactly what you described start dieing out when warmed up, need to cool down before restarting, then eventually you can crank and crank and it won't spark. Oh on the Turbo cars it's attached to the coil bracket, not the side of the dizzy like the N/A

I definitely agree. I remember when the Z4 was coming out they had profile shot of it in MotorTrend and I was looking at it thinking, that looks so much more like a new Z than the 350Z does. Now we just need someone with some good fab skills to buy a Z4 and custom fab up a front end, etc and turn that into a new age Z. I think it already comes with a 2.8L inline-6.

No you can stick with your regular auto ECU. The only difference I've heard of is the RPM drop off, I think it's slower with a manual ECU? Anyway you should be fine with the auto ECU.

Man have I been lazy, my poor Z31 has sat in the garage with no taillights for a while now. Anyway I really sat down and started cleaning up the taillights, got those done, then resealed them. I'm having a pain with cleaning off the center piece with the reverse light as it was a separate gasket and not butyl that's now hardened... Then I figured I'm gonna kick myself if I put the rest of my interior back together and don't get the quarter windows done. So I figured out how to remove those. Within 20 minutes of really going at it, got the area where the quarter windows mount to the car all cleaned up and ready. Goona get hit with some rust bullet, just to be preventative just like my taillights. Gotta go buy some more butyl and just clean up the quarter windows and finally it'll be back together. So far I like doing the quarter windows better as it's just open space where as the taillights you have to clean in small grooves etc. Rust Bullet where the taillights mount: I think this really should become my Restoration and Eventually Build thread.

Ok, I've been searching and searching via google and HybridZ. So far the one thing I've come across is that I was hooking this up wrong? What I'm getting is that the black/white wire that goes to the ignition is the 12v source, but for some reason the black/white wire goes to the negative terminal on the coil? I'm not the best with wiring and still learning, but I guess the problem is I don't get it? Maybe it's because the the Mallory instructions specifically have you using the wires that went to the - and + coil terminals?

Alright I want to see if you guys can provide any insight on this. I've hooked up everything as it's supposed to be. MSD Tach converter to original Coil + and - wires, then hooked into the corresponding red/white wires on the mallory. Orange and black to + and - coils, red and black battery to + and - battery terminals. If I have the MSD Tach converter wired in, with the ignition on I can ground the white wire and get spark. Same situation but Tach converter disconnected no spark if I ground the white wire. I left the coil wire grounded while cranking to see if I was getting spark. Nothing. I'm using an MSD Blaster II coil. If I plug the stock ignition back in the way it's supposed to be, then no problem car fires right up. I can't figure out what's wrong. I have the blue wire that comes from the ignition module and also connects into the main harness spliced into the red wire from the mallory, I also have my pin 34 wire from my Z31 ecu spliced into this. Now I have the black with white stripe wire as well as my pin 3 wire from my Z31 ecu going into the white wire. Is there something wrong with this setup? I wonder if trying to ground the white wire while cranking would provide any results. I haven't tried this yet. Another thing I noticed wit ignition on and checking all my wires and connections, I noticed the black wire that goes directly to the negative terminal has no voltage on it, I know it's a ground, but shouldn't it have voltage on it? Or would that be only when cranking? The red wire coming from the battery has voltage on it as it should. Any suggestions on this? As far as I can I must have something not connected right as the Tach converter must be switching something and providing a full 12v or something to spark?

Did the Turbo GLL cars have the compass in them? There's no spot anywhere that I've noticed for a compass. I was actually hoping mine had one as that's a pretty handy feature, but I guess they must have removed it? Either that or it was a part of the digital dash which I don't have. I know I was reading on AZ-Zbum's site that I think it was starting with the 87 or so years that the digital dash became an option on the GLLs

I've been lazy lately, and haven't messed with cleaning up my taillights too much or trying to get out the panels around the quarter windows. I just need to figure out how to remove the trim. I'll be getting to it in the next day or so. I've been working with my 280ZXT. The quarter windows from the writeups look pretty easy. I thought it was funny the writeups mention to use Mineral Spirits, I buy the stuff 2 gallons at a time. I love it for cleaning a surface before painting, applying rust paint, just cleaning, etc.

I can tell that most of it is probably coming from the taillights as the nuts holding them were generally loose, and the seals at points I could see past them. Anyway I started pulling those out to clean up. I can't exactly figure out how to loosen the trim around the quarter windows. Also it looks like since mine is an 87 with the different tail lights I need a gasket for the middle reverse light piece. I ordered it from BlackDragonAuto. There's always fun to be had. At least once it's done I'll feel alot better. Maybe this will just eventually become a Build/Restore thread. I guess luckily with how much water seemed to get in, I'm lucky that it's as mild as it is. Here's with the taillights removed: A shot of my interior, needs vacuumed out: Finally my super tune-up:

Well, it rained on my car this morning, about 2 or so hours later I went out to check and he hatch was all nice and wet. I still have no idea exactly where it's leaking from, but right away I got out paper towels and started soaking it all up. I went out and got the 15' roll of that butyl tape from the auto parts store, brought the 280 back out and put the 300 back in the garage. Found some more surface rust, sanded it, cleaned it, dried it then coated it with rust bullet. So once I get the windows and taillights resealed, I'm gonna just completely rust coat the whole hatch.

I didn't even think about the timing issue. You'd probably need the MSD box that would pull timing under boost. Alright well I'll just wire it up then with the signal coming from the original ignition. The Z31 Combo as far as I know wouldn't make much difference, it's just more advanced primarily in the fuel maps and the air metering. As far as the original ignition goes, should it die out I'm basically stuck then, correct? Or say if the stock ignition crapped out, would it be bypassed and the MSD still run correctly? I forget where I read it, but I believe someone said that you can even run a wire straight from the battery to the coil and bypass the ignition, almost as a way to test whether the ignition is on it's way out?

Alright I've been doing some searching and I've seen people mentioning that you can eliminate the stock ignition module altogether and just run the Mallory/MSD ignition in it's place. I only really saw people mention it through the use of a 280ZX N/A. That some way you took the wires and ran them into the magnetic pickup of the ignition. Can this be done with the L28ETs Crank Angle Sensor? If so how do you wire this up? Eliminating the stock module would eliminate the wires that originally went to the positive and negative terminals on the coil wouldn't it? Also one thing I was wondering if I ran it by having the stock Ignition feeding my Mallory, should the stock ignition fail wouldn't that cause the Mallory to not run as well? By the way I'm running an 86' Z31 ECU/MAF combo.

Interestingly enough when my ZXT had a crapped out CHTS and a dead O2 sensor driving the car was pretty crappy. On the freeway getting up to 65 was awful, but once I hit 65 and over my car ran beautifully. I think it had to do with the fact that it was hitting the point where the ECU would kick back to Open Loop and ignore all the sensors. This could be your problem, or something similar. How does the car run when it starts up from cold?