nazar

bastard;) Just kidding, what size and offset did you get? I think im going to have the local shop here paint the centers flat black,they painted my buddies car a flat black(not spray paint, a proffesional paint job, really smoooth look) I think it will look badass Looks like you may have the 16x8? or 17x8?

its a special order, custom made from centerline, so it will take a few weeks to get here, those are the exact wheels, with a brushed center, and I actually like the way it looks without those HIDEOUS centercaps centerline gives you. I will most likely do anthracite painted centers. The car is that factory gray color, it should go nicely with it. SHould give the car a nice, fat aggressive look with plenty of lip. Here is a 5.25 bs 17x9.5 all around on a mustang, still has good lip

backspacing will be 5" rear, 5.25" front to give the rear 1/4" more lip to create a sort of stager. This should clear with coilovers. I went with the slightly larger backspacing because I want to clear the 275 tires with the zg flares and not rub on them

Well after contemplating ccw's i just couldnt justify spending $2200 on a set of rollers right now. SO, after speaking to centerline, and figuring out that they will build me a set of 4x114.3 pattern wheels but with the 9.5" wide hoop, for hte money, i couldnt pass up. Plus, it will be different, no z has these yet Now they dont look too promising in those pictures because centerline doesnt know how to advertise wheels, BUT....here is the potential I am thinking about going even darker, like anthracite or even black centers. THose are also 17x9.5, which is what I got. ALso going with 5" backspacing and coilovers, with 275/40/17 tires all around on ZG flares, how will this work out? I will most likely need coilovers, which is fine. BTW, for the money, this simply cant be beat for a 2 piece, FORGED wheel that weighs like 19lb. Centerline just needs to start designing better wheels, they have the technology and money, just need better designers. I think this is the best wheel they have as far as simplicity and non bling, spokes are straight and flat, just how i like them. More to come.

well im running a 355ci lt1 on drag radials...i cant believe people are snaping those things, thats nuts I cant imagine the 280, being that they are slightly thicker, being that much stronger though....maybe we just need those OVERPRICED billet ones...jeez

right, finding a 280z stub axle could prove difficult I dont know, i mihgt just stick to my stock stubs for now, and hook everything up just to get it done and working.. I can always upgrade to 280z stubs. Its just that i like that adapter that replaces that stupid 4 bolt flange..

now if i wanted to get the 280z stubs, they would still bolt on to the adapter right? I am contemplating just going straight to MM's adapter that gets rid of the 4 bolt stub axle flange. THey have an adapter that goes from the q45 6 bolt cv straight into the 27 spline stub axle bypasing that STUPID 4 bolt oem flange...just too many flanges and adapters that way

OR, we can upgrade to the 280z stub axles, but remove the 4 bolt flange and nut, and instead of getting the adapter that hooks up to the 4 bolt flange, get this?? and bypass the 4 bolt flange and nut? http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=65&PHPSESSID=ba572ec82d83139b527b0be307b0cf1e that seems cleaner, as there arent adapters to adapters, to axles, etc...seems like the adapter that adapts to the 4 bolt flange is just another adapter, which bolts to the stub axle, just seems too busy, too many bolts With this piece from modern, we can go from the q45 CV, to this adapter and straight onto the spline of the 280 stub axle?? Correct me if im wrong

btw, the more research i do the more confused i get, now im totally geting frustrated I think im getting closer. Stub axles arent exaclty what i thought they were, i was talking more abou the SHAFTS that connect the 2 cv's So, if i get 280z stub axles, thats independent of everything else, as they will bolt together the same, still comes out with a 4 bolt flange that should fit ross's billet adapter just as well. The only difference is the 2 extra teeth and a bit thicker? Ok, so we got stub axles. Then the billet adapter that converts it to a 6 bolt. From there we put on the q45 cv. Then some sort of custom short shaft. From there another q45 cv. And finally the diff???? Where can i get these short shafts(1 is longer than the other correct?) DO they just fit right into the q45 cv's? BTW, where do i find 280z stub axles?

so maybe go coilvers and do 4.75-5" BS? I want the rear tires to tuck under the flares when compressed since the car will sit fairly low, that should only make the wheel stick out 1.5" or so

why change the stub axle? Isnt that what the billet adapter bolts to ? 4 bolt to a 6 bolt q45 cv??? I thought that end stays stock, just bolt hte adapter to it, then the q45 cv, then the short axle, then another q45 cv, and then the diff ??

i thought the q45 cv mates to the adapter which mates to the stock 240z 4 bolt hub...am i missing something? What is that $600 stub axle thing? Still confused, lol...here is how I see it in order from OUTSIDE WHEEL -> DIFF WHEEL -> original 4 lug/bolt square hub/bearing -> billet adapter -> q45 CV -> short axle -> q45 CV -> q45 diff Am i missing a piece?? In that formula, i am missing the short splined axle

-19 on a 9.5" wheel is only 4.5" backspacing, seems like it wouldnt stick out far enough to fill the ZG fenders, seems like it would need more like a 4" backspacing to push the tires further out to fill the bigger zg fenders I know people are running 4" backspacing on a 8" wheel in stock fenders

Just wanna make sure it all goes together right The short spacer is on the passanger side, the thicker is on the drivers? Also, what kind of bolts are you guys using to attach the mounts to the block? Seems like 2.5" for the shorter, 3.5" for the longer, but how strong of a bolt must be used? I have grade 8 bolts, will these be enough? a 3.5" bolt is pretty long to torque very heavily. WHat are you guys torquing them to? Seems like the bolts that were used with the factory lt1 mounts(like 1" long) were much stronger. I tried 45ft/lb with the grade 8s and they seem like they may already be stretching. BUt im not sure, maybe im just trippin

If ive gone this far, might as well go for hte 4130's. Nothing about axles on the website though, i guess ill just call him tomorow

Ok guys, I did all my HW and have almost all the parts together GOt my q45 diff,all prepped and painted and ready to go. Got my arizona q45 mustache bar. Got my 4 inner CV's coming from a member, cleaned and ready to go. Got my hub adapters coming as well. NOW, axles. I am confused on this part and did my research. Is there somewhere I can order a set ready to go, sized appropriately and strong? I keep hearing about moser, but people are taking something in and getting something back. I have no axles(other than stock) does someone sell a pair ready to go for this swap? I am also currently fabricating a front mount. This project has been pricey but I like knowing I have a bullet proof rear end when I am at a track 200 miles away from home.

Can I drop my lt1 in without the tranny, and then bolt the t56 up to the engine? I have a lift and all that good stuff, just wondering about access to all the tranny bolts, can i get to them with the engine in the car already? My motor is ready to go and I'll like to drop in it and get it setup, but still waiting for a clutch and flywheel for the tranny. Thanks

you mean 17x9.5, paint the center anthracite, and do 4.5" backspacing to fill in some CF zg flares? Hmm....wonder who might be doin that

well i called and said like this since they make them custom anyways, and its 2 piece so they take a center and weld them into the wheel, why cant they take a 4bolt center and weld them into a wider rim...I spoke to Lui, extension 245 He said he has done a few in the 9.5" width, thats as wide as a rim they have, and he can do them, the ones that are multi pattern at least, some of those wheels are specific to 5 lug, but some are dual bolt pattern, and he can do those I am getting either the big sur or the ventura 5 spoke in 17x9.5 all around, for $200 a piece for a forged rim, its hard to persuade me to go to someone like CCW, even though those look dope

and also possibly a backspacing if i were to go coilovers? I want to be able to tuck the 275 rubber inside the ZG flare under compression so maybe i'll need to go coilover.

Tires will be 275/40/17 in the rear, 265/40/17 in the front. Possibly a backspacing with stock strut assemblies and not coilovers. I figured i can push them far out enough to clear the stock perch with ZG flares being that its only a 9.5" wheel Please help me out guys, I gotta place the order. I was thinking something like 4.5 rear, 4.75 front?????

I just got off the phone with centerline, turns out they WILL make a 4x4.5" wheel wider then the 8" width on their website All those 2 piece forged billet wheels they can make up to 9.5" wide in the 17" with our bolt pattern, same size they make for the mustangs in the 5 lug, but they WILL make them 4 lug...which is not listed on their website, ANY offset you need as well, pretty much a poor mans CCW Custom size, custom offset and the right bolt pattern, for $200 a pop!!!!!! I am looking at the big surs, 17x9.5 with 5.5" backspace or so...

q45 r230 vlsd rear end will solve all your issues and you can stop worrying about it. Its bigger then a ford 9" and is virtually bulletproof on a light Z Thats what I am working on right now. Got the lsd. Ordered the mustache bar. ORdering the 4 cv's. Still need stub axles and billet adapter and then its hammer time