nazar

this kit is made for the impalla, but being that the z has so much more room than a fbody, will this work perhaps?

Well finally threw it back on the dyno to tune it some with tunercat Baseline like i posted before was 318whp and 335ft/lb of torque After hooking up the wideband and tweaking with the timing a bit, we got 332whp and 341ft/lb of torque Whats great is that power and torque increased throughout the band starting at 2000rpm, by a solid at least 10hp throughout a/f ended up peaking at around 12.8-12.9 after initial pulls at about 12.1, a bit rich Timing we actually pulled back a bit because i bypassed my knock sensor and we wanted to keep it safe, timing peaked at about 35-36, with about 38-40 timing, we could have hit 340whp but will require a bit better gas than 91 octane Overall, very pleased on pump gas for a 2500lb car on stock heads and a mild cam

we're gonna tune it with tunercat for max power, then at the end pull the muffler and see what max we can get then maybe do a racegas map on 100 octane with more timing and lean it out a bit and see what we can do After that I will probably get heads. It depends where my job situation goes, if I start making decent money, ive always dreamed of a fully built all motor ls2 409ci 500whp NA, that would be tities

decent idle, easier tuning and great powerband Its pretty aggressive if you run them with 1.6 rockers like i have and its got plenty of lope i didnt want anymore because i wanted the car to be somewhat civilized not some crazy drag sounding car that barely idled It makes power all the way past 6000 and has great midrange 319whp without tuning and cel light on aint half bad...i can probably get 340whp with tuning out of it on stock heads

Traction wise: It breaks traction in 1st from a roll easily, but is managable if you launch it with careful throttle modulation 2nd gear 90% of the time grabs traction and goes, sometimes breaks traction. Any slight bend in the road 2nd will spin What i am most impressed with is even shifting hard to 2nd, just chirps and goes. May be thanks to the 275 width tire and vlsd thanks to the q45 diff along with the extra weight over the rear tires I may get headwork eventually there is this guy in town who does awesome lt1 headwork, my buddy with his z28 with the same setup as mine exactly, PLUS the full headjob AND tuning made 387whp on pump gas through the mufflers and high flow cats!!!

according to some calculators I should be good for 11.8's if I hook up

lol my rear exhaust clamp came off when we raced as i shifted to 2nd, and bypassed themuffler, got so damn loud, it was like vtec for a v8, lol...he was like wtf was that?? hahahaa Yeah the instant torque and power just overshadows the high hp 4 banger with a turbo and the lag and peaky power curve...it was an impressive hatch, we dynoed and tuned it a few days before, very fast hatch, just hard to put all the power down efficiently

also just weighed the car, with 5 gallons of gas and full liquids just as I drove it in, without me in it was 2520lb, with 2 sparco seats and 2 rolls of dynamat installed Not too bad I think

well we finally got this thing done enough to drive around town and smash on it a bit My rear front q45 mount I made originally buckled from 1 launch, i totally underestimated the torque I made it by tying the front and rear control arm brackets by 1x1" hollow square tubbing and some mounts going up to the diff THese 1x1 tubes bent in half as the diff pulled them up so I reengineering them using 3" x 3/8" steel bars on each side going front to back to hold them from folding on themselfs, so no way is a 3" bar going to bend wide side up.....so far so good under all hard launches and driving Anyways, we through it on the dyno to get a baseline. The knock sensor is still unpluged so the cel light is on, probably limp mode for now It made: 318.9whp 335.9ft/lb torque Power stays positive all the way to 6000rpm where it started slowly droping off to 300whp at 6500 torque peak was at 4000rpm Next up is to get rid of the cel light, and tune it with tunercat this week. Hoping for 330-340whp which would be awesome Its a 355ci lt1 rebuilt, lt4 hotcam, 1.6 rockers, sanderson headers, 2.5" exhaust into a 3" single to a baffled flow sound muffler out back. Electric water pump, fan, no ac/no ps Stock heads, tb, intake manifold, injectors, ecu Not too shaby. I ran a 340whp civic hatch, ls/vtec full build with a gt30 turbo and put about 3 cars on him from a stop to end of 3rd gear

its FWD

7/8 tilton for t56 clutch, works great 15/16 280zx master for azc willwood brakes, still some air in the line

i got a reman. 280zx at autozone for $38!!! no fill bottles but u can reuse your old ones

seems like it may have been just surface rust because when i got the car it ran fine and when i welded the sump to it i washed it out with water but after that it sat for a month this time i droped it bought a gallon of phosphoric acid for rust removal. washed it out first with degreaser then poured in the acid let it sit for 30 minutes, then sloshed it around all over and poured it out , peaked inside with a flashlight and it was clean bare lookin shiny metal, at least on the bottom where the sludge built up i just hope i sloshed it around enough idealy it would be great to pour like 12 gallons of that acid in there but at $14 a gallon thats too much.... im not going to deo that coating in fear that it will peal off...the gas should keep the tank from rusting i then poured some wd40 in there sloshed it around to keep it from rusting till i get gas in there tomorow

too fukin late i already welded a custom sump to my tank...shoulda just got a cell

i think any old tank will have this problm i dont know what it is...its orange ggooop stuff i assume its rust

my filters keep getting cloged with this orange goo so i assume its rust i have access to a hot tank, but will muric acid work even better?

grade 10 metric? i can barely find grade 8 metric

so should i still pull it apart and reassemble?

ok so i put my cage in backwards is that a big deal? i only put it in gear up on jackstands for a few seconds did this ruin anything? should i pull it all apart and flip the cage around? the machined part of the cage is facing out when pulling bak the boot? damn this sux i gotta pull it all apart....messy

i coulda sworn when i pulled them apart the recessed part of the cage was facing out...damn

im confused if i put it in like this wont it allow the cage to pull out far enough into the boot to lose the balls? isnt the big round c clip supposed to keep the cage from sliding out?? so is the above picture correct for sure??

i was reading that and still wasnt sure the part of the cage that is machined is that the recessed side?

i may have messed up when puting the cvs together with my mosler halfshafts the cv has a cage with balls on it, a c clip on the edge and a snap ring in the back holding on the shaft the cage, with the halfshaft in it has a side that sits flush with the shaft and a side that is recessed which side goes into the cv first? i have the recessed part out, meaning when you pull the boot back and looking in the recessed part is showing, it would suk to have to redo it all, damn