JustinOlson

Dang, procrastination kicks me in the but again

Wow, Going to the drag strip Saturday night really got me motivated. I started working on my 280z a lot this weekend. The 280z is now called Project Cheetah because of my rust removal work this weekend. I will leave the car multi-colored for this summer I think. Hopefully this next winter I will have the money to give it a proper paint job. Anyway, I worked on stripping the interior some more. I used a buffing disk to clean off the remaining bits of tar from the sound deadening. I wasn't able to get all of this completed because the 20 gallon compressor in the garage just isn't up to the task. Its constantly running and getting very hot. The black painted areas are those that I got down to bare metal with the buffer. Along the way I took a grinder and cut off wheel to the drivers side floor pan. I have almost all of the rusty metal out of it. There is a 4"X4" hole in the floor now under the brake pedal. I also have half of the drivers side frame rail that is rusted out. It really isn't terrible, and I will be doing some more grinding to get the rest of the rust out of this area. Once that is finished, I will be able to weld up both the frame rail and the hole in the floor. I've been wanting to take of the 280z rear bumper for a long time. The metal shelf above the bumper was all bent up and ugly. Half way through buffing tar off the floor I decide to remove the rear bumper. It really wasn't hard to get the bumper shell itself off of the car. The hard part was removing the metal shelf and the bumper shocks. I had to drill out the spot welds from the metal shelf. Then I had to drop the fuel tank to get to the bumper shocks. Then I was able to remove both shocks. Get the tank buttoned back up. Then grind the crap out of the rusted area where the shelf used to mate up to the back of the car. I didn't have time to sand down the whole rear of the car, so I didn't worry about spray painting it all. I just did a quick coat of paint on the bare areas. I'm definitely going to go back over this area with some sand paper to make it look less hideous. I don't like the aesthetics of the car right now, but the weight dropped by losing the rear bumper was a plus. I also like that the car seems to be 6" shorter now. So my day was about over and I decided to see if the S12+8 calipers would clear my wheels. I mounted the passenger side caliper. The factory calipers were trashed. I little work with the cut off wheel on the dust shield and I was in business. I'm not sure if brake fluid is flammable, but I was careful not to get sparks on any of it just in case. I ran out of time and didn't mount the drivers side caliper. I went ahead and made an impulse buy on an OBX R200 LSD made for the 240sx. Its a Quaife knockoff and I've heard good reviews for their other models so I decided to try it. For $400 shipped, I'm willing to experiment. Hopefully I receive the differential in the next two weeks so I can mount it up. Justin

Cool, everything sounds good one these. I'm buying one off ebay. Justin

I've stripped most of the interior sound deadening trying to locate any and all rust in the car. The only rust on the interior I've run into so far has been a 4"X4" patch under the brake pedal. I'm going to cut this out tomorrow. I've also found that the drivers side frame rail is slightly rusted out. I'm going to cut out the rust here and strip away all of the undercoating tomorrow. I purchased a set of S12+8 calipers with pads from the local napa. I was hoping to get the straight s12 calipers, but they didn't have any. I'm going to go through the brakes tomorrow as well. Hopefully once I replace the calipers and bleed them system, I'll have no more brake issues. Tonight I went out to PIR drag nights. What a fun event. The coolest car there IMO was a honda CRX with a turbo b18 in it. The guy was running a sc61 at 18psi on E85. It's final run that got it kicked off the track was a 10.4 @ 136mph. I was extremely impressed seeing this FWD compact car kick the ♥♥♥♥ out pretty much everything at the track What a good motivator to get me working on my car. Justin

Call this shop and find out. Hybrid Z isn't about being spoon fed. http://www.taylor-race.com

The main problem is that people get all excited when people start developing parts. They say there first in line to have one when they go into production. The problem comes when people actually see the price of quality products. In general people want the best, but aren't willing to pay the price. That is why you see such small batches on these custom parts. I'm personally just modeling Ron's intake manifold for the fun of it. I'm not trying to make any money on the deal. I'm just doing the drawings so I can have the flanges machined for my own car. Justin

Thanks Ron, No problem, I should be able to get it dialed in today after I get back from the beach. Regards, Justin

For the first design, we are going to keep it simple. 95% of the L28's around aren't going to need or use 12 injectors. If people were commonly maxing out 1000cc injectors on their turbo setups I could see it, but thats not really happening as far as I can tell. So the major question would be the primary use for these intake manifolds. I'm trying to find sources for thicker (0.125" thickness) plenum material. This will make the manifolds much more durable for turbocharged setups. I will try to correctly locate the injector ports in the cylinder head flange from the drawings I've received from Ron. From there, I'm going to make some detailed dimensioned drawings to send out to a couple places for quote. If anyone knows of a good machinist with a 5 axis CNC, Let me know there contact information. I'd like to send these drawings off for quote this coming week. Regards, Justin

Even if E85 isn't going to save the world, it is great for turbo cars. People are making great power on it. A local supra guy is putting down 800whp with it. Amazing "pump" fuel.

Just a quick rendering. I'm actually going to use a different fuel rail stock, but this gives an idea:

I worked on the injector bungs a bit. The idea is to making fuel rail standoffs built into the plenum base. I'll work on the fuel rail and mounting tabs later today. Paul do you think the gain in atomization by moving the injectors back on the runner will be worth while?

Thanks for the link. I have some of those ross machining injector bungs. The machinist I use can produce those for me. The major hurdle will be machining the injector ports to lay on top of the runners like the above pictures. I'm going to give the machinist a call tomorrow about this. I'll give you a call tomorrow as I'm very busy with work today. Best Regards, Justin Olson

Played with the model a bit on my lunch break. I need to change the angle of the injector ports, but I like how this design looks. I'm going to have to talk to the machinist to see if he can make the runners and injector ports so I can easily weld it up. Regards, Justin

I used to live in Lake Oswego, but right now I'm out in Hillsboro. Hope to move to NW 23rd area of portland next month. Justin

If you could send me a VK56 stock manifold I could design a race geared replacement. My mailing address is: Justin Olson 18901 Hilltop Rd Lake Oswego, OR 97034 Regards, Justin

Well, one thing at a time for me. I'm going to get this design finalized then I can move on to others. I'm at work right now and am not suppose to be on here, so I'll post some updates tonight when I get off work. Regards, Justin

I still need to properly place the injector ports. I'm thinking I might actually have the runners machined for injector ports. Then weld in some injector ports that are machined up on a lathe. This would allow a smaller angle between the injectors and the runner, which should promote better atomization. I'll work on that idea a bit more tomorrow. Couple More Pictures: Regards, Justin

MMM, Very nice welds! That silver roadster is also hot!

A cheap source for the aluminum bends. I haven't been able to find thicker then 16 gauge aluminum tubing with a 4.5" CLR. http://www.globaltecheng.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=65&idproduct=1145 http://www.globaltecheng.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=65&idproduct=597

Ok, I did a bit more work: Regards, Justin

Here is a close up of the alterations I made to the flange from Ron's Design. I added slight cutouts(0.050") to center the runners to the flange. Also, I added material to make the runners easier to weld up. Regards, Justin

I also had this idea for the top bolt holes. Let me know what you guys think. I'm not a machinist, so I'm not sure which design is more efficient (cheaper) to machine. Justin

Alright, well I have a rough model in Solidworks of the flange. Sorry for taking forever and a day to actually do this. I made some slight alterations. I'm working on different ideas at this point. I used 1.759" ID tubing for the model. I'm going to finish up the plenum later today. http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=4367&step=4&showunits=inches Regards, Justin

A local dealer had one market at 29.9k eeek

A propane torch or heatgun is great for loosening it up. It will come right off. Justin