kj280z

Hey all I had posted this on the other thread but thought I would post it here as well: Ok all I have an early mazworks adapter that I bought from a fellow hybrizer... PLEASE PROVIDE SOME FEEDBACK ON THESE FINDINGS! The adapter had 2 dowl pins which should have lined up with existing holes in the bellhousing but they do not - My tranny is from a 93 300zx NA from what I remember... After removing the dowl pins we were able to get the bolt patterns to match up but the hardware included leaves space which does not instill much confidence for alignment. I have included pictures... I have purchased shouldered bolts to remedy the situation but would love to get some feedback on correct dowl pin placement and if anyone else has experienced these issues. Also, just a bit of a pet peeve of mine - all the hardware on the mazworks setup is standard - while the whole rest of the car is metric - wish they'd have drilled and tapped it with metric threads and included metric hardware instead... I'd imagine if anyone else had to pull the dowl pins and tried to just bolt it together without replacing the bolts that they may have some unexplained clutch chatter... I've included a picture of the mcmaster bolts that hopefully will solve the problem... I'd actually like to make some adapters that remedy all of these little "gotcha's" so I'd like to talk more about others experiences... The first two photo's show the threaded hole on the adapter and the larger hole the bolts go through on the tranny - you can see the large difference in diameter... Here you can see where we had to remove the 2 dowl pins out of the adapter to get it to line up... An example of how much play there is in one of the holes (there is less in others) - but the lack of a shouldered bolt really causes some concern here due to the threads acting as a "file" inside the tranny side (bellhousing)... Here you can see the smaller holes with better clearance but still enough to cause concern... Again absent of the shouldered bolt which better aligns the two parts there could be enough "play" to cause some unwanted clutch chatter and other issues. McMAster bolts that we bought to remedy the clearance issues... slight reaming was required - we can only use these in 3 or 4 of the holes which should center everything and feel it will be enough to fix the problem. We'll use bolts with shoulders everywhere...

Ok all I have an early mazworks adapter that I bought from a fellow hybrizer... PLEASE PROVIDE SOME FEEDBACK ON THESE FINDINGS! The adapter had 2 dowl pins which should have lined up with existing holes in the bellhousing but they do not - My tranny is from a 93 300zx NA from what I remember... After removing the dowl pins we were able to get the bolt patterns to match up but the hardware included leaves space which does not instill much confidence for alignment. I have included pictures... I have purchased shouldered bolts to remedy the situation but would love to get some feedback on correct dowl pin placement and if anyone else has experienced these issues. Also, just a bit of a pet peeve of mine - all the hardware on the mazworks setup is standard - while the whole rest of the car is metric - wish they'd have drilled and tapped it with metric threads and included metric hardware instead... I'd imagine if anyone else had to pull the dowl pins and tried to just bolt it together without replacing the bolts that they may have some unexplained clutch chatter... I've included a picture of the mcmaster bolts that hopefully will solve the problem... I'd actually like to make some adapters that remedy all of these little "gotcha's" so I'd like to talk more about others experiences... The first two photo's show the threaded hole on the adapter and the larger hole the bolts go through on the tranny - you can see the large difference in diameter... Here you can see where we had to remove the 2 dowl pins out of the adapter to get it to line up... An example of how much play there is in one of the holes (there is less in others) - but the lack of a shouldered bolt really causes some concern here due to the threads acting as a "file" inside the tranny side (bellhousing)... Here you can see the smaller holes with better clearance but still enough to cause concern... Again absent of the shouldered bolt which better aligns the two parts there could be enough "play" to cause some unwanted clutch chatter and other issues. McMAster bolts that we bought to remedy the clearance issues... slight reaming was required - we can only use these in 3 or 4 of the holes which should center everything and feel it will be enough to fix the problem. We'll use bolts with shoulders everywhere...

I sold Jimmy that 260Z about 8 years ago!!

Hey all... You guys have done a great job of detailing the installation but I've been looking for detailed instructions on disassembling the transmission. My machinist would like to see some details on taking it apart (the tranny is at his place right now)... I've done some searching but have not had any luck... Can anyone steer me in the right direction?

Hey all, Thought I'd share a quote on the driveshaft and also some feedback from Kyle at Import Parts Pro - he's questioning the 3102-20 flange on the rear - see below - Is he right to question that? The car this is going into is a 240Z with an R200 with a T5 (replacing the T5) and a custom drifeshaft - I forget what the flange on the diff looks like, but most likely standard 280z or 280zxt (are they the same? can't remember) Here is the info:

Was wondering if you have any of the tranny mounts still available? Also if you have a shifter mount I might want one of those as well Let me know

Garrett, I was reading up on your drive shaft specs - Which flange do you have on your diff? Also, would there be any difference in the drive shaft length in a 240Z which has been swapped to a R200? Garretts Drive shaft specs: Length I gave them was 29 1/16" from flange to output shaft Flange yoke I used (same as zx turbo i believe) Powertrain Industries(spicer) part #3102-20 Slip yoke I used (30 spline z32) Powertrain Industries (spicer) part #3103-30 Spicer U-joints 1310 series #5-785X Spicer Tube Yokes #2-28-437 They had to order a few of these parts in which tagged a few bucks onto the bill but my total was $304.39 We plan on ordering the drive shaft from Powertrain Industries in California - how has eveyones experience with them been?

What color silver/grey did you paint the body? Also curious which satin black product you used for the trim...

Joe, Post a picture of your Subaru PS Rack!

Thanks for the pics! An internet search says that the rack from a 2001 STI interchanges with the following: 1998-2001 Subaru Impreza interchages with: * 1998-1998: L; 4Cyl 2.2L GAS, FI, VIN "4", EJ22EZ; * 1998-1998: Outback; 4Cyl 2.2L GAS, FI, VIN "4", EJ22EZ; * 1998-1998: RS; 4Cyl 2.5L GAS, FI, VIN "6", EJ25D; * 1999-1999: L; 4Cyl 2.2L GAS, FI, EJ223; * 1999-1999: Outback; 4Cyl 2.2L GAS, FI, EJ223; * 1999-1999: RS; 4Cyl 2.5L GAS, FI, EJ253; * 1999-2001: L; 4Cyl 2.2L GAS, FI, VIN "4", EJ222; * 1999-2001: Outback; 4Cyl 2.2L GAS, FI, VIN "4", EJ222; * 2000-2000: RS; 4Cyl 2.5L GAS, FI, VIN "6", EJ251; * 2001-2001: RS; 4Cyl 2.5L GAS, FI, EJ251; Just trying to clear up the confusion on which racks will work... This list could be wrong, but at least it's a start... Based on everyone's experience with the Subaru racks, does this list represent the different racks that have been used?

I bought those mounts from Tyson... were they yours at one point? Do you have any pictures of them mocked up with the STI rack? Can you give me more details on the rack (year etc)... Much appreciated!! Many people are really curious!!

Here's some pics of my mounts: