LLave

I will buy a hoodie and 2 t-shirts

I would probably weld it too. Put a fastener in it. Control heat with TIG, or smaller mig tacks and cooling. Then carefully grind/sand to size. But that is me. I see you are in CA. I have a couple extra arms in my shed, if you end up needing replacement.

Before tuning, I would check the basics. Maybe replace the thermostat. Put in a high flow version. Also, what did you do with the heater lines? As I understand it, the GM heater valves have constant flow and help keep the thermostat at temp. I made an H fitting... But my car doesn't run, because I am a slacker. https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1891762-proper-thermostat-function-heater-hose-bungs.html

I will be very surprised if you do not see a noticeable increase in cooling. You may consider adding the OE hood seal that is on top of the core support, or something similar. The OE one is a little wimpy, buy sealing the hood to core support will probably help some, and its easy.

I have them, front and rear. I was just thinking, why am I keeping these, if I revert I will order path panels. If you really want them, get a price on shipping from zip code 94928

What a huge moment! I am honestly happy for you.... Almost proud of you! hahaha. Great work.

Just double checked mine. No hole. Unless it is filled with lead of filler.

Do you have the plastic inner fender pieces?

This is amazing and inspirational. Thank you for sharing.

Looks great. Would you do it again, or job it out?

Yeah two important items. 1. Get ALL the excess out. You have to keep rotating the tank and draining off the excess. For me there was a little lip that made it extra hard to get it all out. If you leave any excess, it will puddle, the top will dry first. This creates a sink over liquid sealant, trapping in the solvents, it it will cause a pealing adhesion problem 2. Heat, for the same reason as above. I did mine in the winter and thought I needed to warm up the garage to help dry. I got the tank too warm, this made the material dry too fast, trapping in solvent under a dry skin. You want the sealant to dry at the correct rate. Both of these points are covered in the instructions, you just have to actually listen. Heh https://www.kbs-coatings.com/tank-sealer-directions.html

Looks great to me. I would be happy with those results.

There is a company that makes a reproduction Auto Panel Solutions, I see their stuff on facebook.

Looks really good. When you shoot epoxy on that and see it wet, I think you will be happy. Good tip on the pressure, I have experienced that as well. Light pressure is crucial. Also, used the longest block that fits the part. Great work. Inspirational

I used the KBS gold coating kit. https://www.kbs-coatings.com/Auto-Fuel-Tank-Sealer-Kit.html