Lason

Phantom, im not using a stock rear end at all. Right now the floor is completley gone from the rear seat mount to the back of the car and all you see is ground. Im converting my car to straight axle and doing a mini tub with new frame rails. Im lining my motor up so its centerline runs with the centerline of the car. There is no offset of a R180,200 or anything. Im using a 8.8" Ford rear end out of a 94-up mustang. here is a pic of my car so you'll see what Im explaining. Excuse the mess, lol.

yeah I dont have a trans crossmember made yet so mine was sitting on a jack. I still need to make some subframe connectors to mount a crossmember to. I centered up the tranny and motor last night before pulling them out and took measurments then. The main reason I did it was so I can figure out my pinion offset for my 8.8" before sending it off to get narrowed.

Are you asking if that is right?

Yep i also have pics of the mounts themselves. I just pulled my LS1/Powerglide out last night to start fab of some subframe connectors and other misc crapola. Kinda nice, only took me 20 min from start to finish to get it out Of course I didnt have a shifter cable, tranny crossmember, driveshaft or anything else connected, lol. Just pull the motor mount bolts and lift her up and out. BTW, I also marked off the ground last night using a plumb bob before I yanked the motor and mine is 1/2" offset to the pass side. I wonder why the fluctuation with the offsets.

Woops I had a brain fart when I wrote that above. You are correct. Looks like a slick setup!

be prepared to burn through a lot! I would even think about body work without gas. Only thing I use flux core for now is when Im welding heavy gauge steel that is on the verge of maxing my welder out.

interesting! Looks like a 79-up mustang rear suspension except the straight arms are up top instead of down low like on a stang. Only thing that would worry me is the bottom links and tabs they mount to distorting because the axle will naturally want to pull back on them under acceleration. I believe thats why the stangs use straight bars on the bottom as the angled arms will be a lot more effient to push against instead of being pulled against.

That would be 1/4" not 1/8" right? I measured mine and mine is 1/2" offset to the pass side using a plumb bob when I was settign my car up for the back half. I need to re-measure everything as Im about to get my 8.8" axle narrowed for the car. As far as the alternator I have to do some surgery on the plastic cooling cap on the back of it to clear the JCI mount but it wasnt bad. Im just worried about the main power lug on the back of it being so close to the mount. Ill just tape it all up after I install a wire on there.

Looks VERY familiar, lol. Im about at the same point except my motor and tranny are in and my dash is still there. Ill be so glad when my car is sitting on all four tires again but Im sure you know that feeling! Look'n good.

VERY good info boodlefoof!!!! Im a noob at chassis work so right now Im trying to keep it as basic as I can without re-inventing the wheel. I never would have thought about moving the mounting points at the axle back, thats a really good idea!!

Only problem with REALLY wide tires (like a 33x14.50) is you have to cut and stretch the wheel well opening to clear anything larger than a 28" diameter tire. I chose to leave the stock outter wheel wells in there and just go as wide as I can with 28" tires. I figure if I cant hook on a 28x10.5W and a 4-link then I have other issues, lol. Other issues I have come across doing this is also the seating area. Normally using the chassisworks 4-links they recomend 18" long links on the 4 link. I put my crossmember up against the rear seat mount and that means I will have to run a 17" link. Not usually a good thing since adjustments will be more sensative and it will make it a little trickier to dial in. With the chassisworks kits they use smaller bolts and more holes tightly together so Im sure that will make up for the shorter links. As is though, it will be a tight fit in the seat with the stock column and dash but Im 5'6 so Im hoping it wont be that big of an issue. Ladder bars would have helped that and been easier but the front mount would have been right around the front seat mount so the seat would have had to be raised up enough to clear it. One solution to the short links and seating space goes back to stretching the wheel well opening. If you stretched the opening to accomodate a 33" tire (stretching only the rear half of the opening) then that would move your main crossmember back 1 1/2" and you would be able to use 18" links. That would be the best solution. Not to mention it would lengthen up your wheelbase and that would make for a more stable car on the strip. I hear these datsuns are a handfull running 5's in the 1/8th with stock wheelbase.

No ones kit. Just went and bought some 2x3 .083" square tubing, a chop saw and started cutting and welding. I need to go get some more 2x3 so I can go ahead and finish the frame and frame connectors going to the front of the car.

Im in the process of doing a backhalf on mine and will be running 15 x 10's with 28x13.50 ET Streets and 28x10.5W slicks. Here is the most current pic I have of my progress. I have a 8.8" out of a 94+ mustang with disk brakes that Im going to narrow and put 9" ends on it to eliminate the c-clips along with a chassisengineering 4 link.

Yep 1987-up were roller motors.

What size rear tires are those?

Carefull guys complaining about everyone bitching about the search button. I did that and next thing you know I got some mod blowing up my PM box talking trash and not backing it all up. So now I got two red dots <-----------------

I use a Hobart 140 and love it. I am also doing frame work with it on my Z and it works and penetrates like it should but its maxed out. If I was going to do it again I would go with a Millermatic 175. The only reason I didnt go with that was because I dont have a 220v outlet in my garage and its so nice to be able to find a 110 plug anywhere. I will probably look into a MM175 or MM210 later on and keep the 140 for smaller jobs or as a portible unit. BTW, I dont know if it has been mentioned yet but Hobart and Miller are the same company but Hobart is their lower end brand. They use some plastic pieces where millers come with metal but they interchange so if the plastic breaks get the miller replacement. Heck, my Hobart came with a gun marked Miller. Oh and get you a gas bottle and some gas ASAP, it makes it SOOOOOOOOO much nicer.

Could be aftermarket weights. Usually just a genral figure I shoot for is 10 degrees at idle and about 32 degrees at full advance. Just a general figure though.

Yep, LS1 will get to 500hp very easily AND the all aluminum block and heads will get a lot of weight off that nose.

Well now there is another conflicting story, Im still up in the air on these things. Another thing I wonder about this system is exactly how much nitrous you go through on a run. I mean the spray bar is a lot longer than a plate system. At $30 a bottle I dont know exactly how efficient that setup is.

You know, I read something not to long ago of some people doing a test of spraying N2O onto a A2A IC and there was no change in air temp, and if there was a change it was extremely minimal. I would think that NOS and all the other companies that make the IC chillers would research that kind of stuff before marketing their products but I was a lil disappointed after reading what I did. Another reason Im personally looking into W2A IC is because I can mount one tranny cooler up front in the traditional spot in front of the radiator and then mount a second one in my ice/water resivour and really help keep my tranny temps down while im on the tranny brake.

Are you talking about me 280Z28? If I do mine like I want Ill have my a2w IC mounted in the back next to my water tank and pump. Ill just run the 4" or whatever size inlet and outpiping along the pass side floor board. I could even mount the IC where the A/C box is on the pass side firewall on the inside and run my water hose from the resivoir to the IC along the floor. Either way it SHOULD work. Ill be N/A for a while though. So Ill have time to think about it. In the mean time Im taking all of it into consideration as Im moving the floors around and rear frames and all that.

I havent gotten to that point yet but with my LS1 mounted in there I have plenty of room between the core support and front of the motor with the belt driven water pump for one. Now I dont have a radiator mounted yet so I may be way off with my measurements but if needed I can figure out a way to mount the radiator on the front side of the core support to give me the needed room. I have the whole back end cut out of my Z right now doing a back half so Im not afraid to cut on this thing if I have to