Lason

WOW!! I just found this thread. I hope you enjoy the ride man and it looks like your off to a good start. I sure do miss the ole girl but Im sure you will do it right!

finish the long block and you got yourself a 1000hp street monster!! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=148977

Whiteboy still has the black tube chassis Z and the orange car your thinking of is his dad's car. WB used to also have a stock suspension silver Z that was pretty nasty as well.

I dunno...........

Yeah its up for sale. Its easy to get burned out when you got 3 years into something and it isnt quite done the way you want. On the flip side I am still working on it and have had any offers come my way that I couldnt say no to yet . Just made an order for more parts and if I finish the car then Im sure it will be off the market for quite a while.

Yep I have read enough posts about some serious defective parts ,or no parts at all from showcars on this site and other sites as well. Most all places have their horror stories but that places seems to have more bad coming out of it than good. I would steer clear at all costs like Davy said.

Yep same car. Didnt have a lot of interest in it and I refused to cut my own throat on the pricing so I have been working on getting it up and going. Yes, that bend on the floor will be the discharge pipe from the turbo to the throttle body. Just gotta get to cutting and welding.

It will have a inlet tube connecting the throttle body to the turbo

PM'd John and no dice. He did give me the measurements of his hood though and I verified it wont be enough In the mean time I cut a hole in the stock hood and it looks decent I guess.

Just got my induction setup done and tried the stock hood just to get a idea of how much cowl I would need and its about 4 to 4 1/2" from closing. I know Betamotorsports makes some nice quality stuff but I dont know if a 4" will do it so Im thinking like a 6" cowl hood. Anyone got any ideas on who would make something like that? Otherwise Ill probably have to buy a flat fiberglass hood and graph on a generic cowl induction "scoop".

Front suspension is all stock with 15x3.5" weld drag lites. Came off a mustang I had a while back. wheels are turned all the way to the right though so I can access the back of the fender. Here is how they sit when straight

Here are some pics of the stuff back from the coaters in black ceramic. I already scratched the exhaust tip but it was bound to happen behind right behind the front tire anyway so Im not sweating it.

Good info, Im still a welding newb and only been welding for the past year or so and am self taught so I know Im still not doing a GREAT job but it gets the job done. This was my first attempt at welding any kind of tube and it was a real pain and took a lot of getting used to. The 5" downpipe was a lot easier than the smaller 3" and 1 3/4" primaries for sure. Its all Mig so I wasnt aware that I could post flow the welds though. As for the push lok hose, Im a real big fan of the stuff in most cases. There are a few places that I wont even consider it, like tranny lines. But I do need to get rid of this Parker brand hose I have on there. I have heard stories of the stuff falling apart and causing issues. I got it at my local circle track place then noticed after I installed it, it wasnt NHRA compliant so Im replacing it with Aeroquip brand. Also going from a single -8 feed to a -10 feed and -10 return.

Yeah thats my setup. Powder coater just called and said its ready to pick up. Going with all black ceramic to hide my crappy welds No intercooler and will be run on E85 so the intake charge should be cool enough but the plans down the road are for a air/water intercooler in the passenger seat area. That will come with the new motor I plan on starting on this winter. Right now its just a bone stock LS1 longblock and ran a 7.6 in the 1/8 with a crappy Edelbrock carb. New motor will be a LSX block, stock cubes, all forged so I can really crank up the boost. By the time its all said and done Im hoping for a mid 5 second streetable ride.

Wasnt me, I went with a LS1 out of a '98 camaro but the 6.0l iron block motors are as stout as they come. I did put a carb on my car and got about 95% done and hit a financial brick wall. Car should be done by spring Im hoping. Will be running N/A for now and blow through carb when its all said and done. Pics are here http://s13.photobucket.com/albums/a267/Lason/240Z%20Conversion/

Your missing two bars that are going to keep you from getting it certified. There needs to be diagonal bars fron the main hoop down to the tranny tunnel to be considered a NHRA legal 10 point. Other than that it looks real good.

Dont run c clip eliminators. If you already cutting the ends off to narrow it then just weld on 9" ends. Moser has ends that use 9" bearings and retaining plates and still use the 8.8 brakes.

Im in the process of tubbing my Z and will need a cage here in the next few weeks and one question I have had while shopping around is if the a pillar bars went in front of the dash or through it. My Z is already a very tigh fit thanks to the 4 link and I dont know Im going to be able to get in/out with bars in front of the dash. Does anyone know if the Jegs bars look like they are designed to be in front or through the dash?

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/categoryitem_10001_10002_29644_-1_672502?CT=999 5" tach w/boost gauge for $299

If your worried about originality then I would try swapping over to another mechanical fuel pump like a edelbrock or holley pump and see if that helps. I always gave up on them and just threw a electrical pump on them at the first signs of trouble.

The problem may be with the fuel pump as well. I dont think you mentioned if you were running a electric or mechanical pump but I have always had this problem with mechanical pumps. After a couple of days the line pressure bleeds off and you need to crank it quite a bit to get the pressure back up. You should still have fuel in the bowl though so that has always had me a little stumped. I can tell you that in my expirience a switch to an electric fuel pump has fixed that problem for me everytime.

Good numbers, congrats!!

You only option would be to switch out to a 0-90 ohm universal sender and use a 0-90 ohm autometer gauge or contact autometer and see if they can build a custom unit for you. They may already have the guts for it to stick in a phantom gauge.

You talking about "Hell Yeah" from DFWOutlaws? He was in a wheelie contest at Redline and put it on its side and got out yelling "HELL YEAH", lol. Heres a pic of him getting out of his car............

If I did it again I would just get me a complete 6.0l motor. Still an LSX style motor but they are iron blocked so rebuilding them isnt as much of a pain and they are cheaper and easier to find than the aluminum versions. Heavier but will take gobs more power before breaking, even though the aluminum blocks and stock cranks have been pushed beyond 1000hp and still lived.