Lason

yeah but dollar for dollar I can say that it is easier to get more power out of larger displacement motors. If you want to make it even then throw a hairdryer on your SBC and turn the knob a lil if you ever get bored.

I dont see being able to get that kind of power reliably out of a turbo I6. If you already got the SBC conversion underway I would stick to it IMO.

dang those things are little, are they really as strong as you say? I may have to pick me up a handfull and put them through my motor as suggested. I usually stick a magnet in my oil pan but the ones i use arent THAT strong.

So how much will you guys have in your vintage air units from start to finish? Im really thinking about putting a setup in my 240 after I get it running. It gets a lil warm here in Texas during the summer

Drifting eh? Still looks riced out to all hell. Just not much into sport compact and all that but whatever floats your boat right?

That is one ugly car! Diggin the hybrid............I guess (I know nothing bout that motor) but the car itself makes me want to vomit. Needs a box of uncle bens long grain diplayed in front of it.

You may see about ordering a adapter from JTR to adapt the R200 flange to a 1310 u-joint then get a shaft made up with 1310's on both sides. Would make it easier and prolly cheaper I would imagine.

I would say with no throttle body that thing isnt going to start.

Good info! I was about to order a set of headers and had issues paying $300 for blockhuggers.

Yeah 400 blocks are notorious for extremely thin cylinder walls even on a standard bore. There are a few high nickle castings out there but IMO its just better to start off with a 4 bolt 350.

problem is, not a whole lot of people have $8k to dump into a motor at one time. I could race my "junk" motor as you put it and upgrade as I go but if I had money for a dart block, etc then sure that is the route I would have taken. For now, Ill stick to running junk motors on a realistic budget. But even junk motors can be built "right" using budget parts with realistic goals in mind.

you really cant, they are identical on the outside but ask the seller for the casting number on the block if he will give it to you. its kind of a pain to read, especially on a f-body. its on the back driverside corner of the block on a pad next to where the bellhousing on the tranny bolts to by the brake booster. Also I believe they also are marked around there with a "5.7" or "5.0" but I could be wrong.

LOL that means absolutley nothing on a car that is that old. Motor could have gone and been replaced with a 305 off the barn floor or something. Check the motor itself.

O yeah, MAKE SURE you arent getting stuck with a 305 Iroc. I have seen way too many people try to advertise camaro's/firebirds with 350's and they were 305's. The ones that say they have a stock camaro with a 5.7l/5speed are easy to spot seeing that GM knew better than to put a stick behind the 350's.

yeah thats a good deal on a iroc. Take out the drivetrain and sell the rolling body for 500-750 depending on the shape its in and your good.

that hemi has more aluminum in one valve cover than my entire car!

server crashed and a lot of posts were lost. See the bulletin scrolling across the top of the screen?

No offense taken at all and coming from someone that used to drag race a '83 shortbed S10 with a small block and also being ASE certified I can say I know a thing or two about spinning wrenches and motor swaps. Also another board Im on is a local mustang board and we have members with exotic powered drag cars throwing 1200+ horsepower around so I am used to boards with expirienced people. But there will always be noobs to the mechanic world, if not then this hobby would be dead quick. Like I said above, I dont mind telling people to search but locking threads and ridiculing people because they needed a quick answer or maybe just a "up to date" answer is something that gets on my nerves about this place. I know, I know, If I dont like it then leave. I just thought I would throw my 2 cents out there since apperantlty no one else has. The owners of this board can continue to run it any way they feel fit and thats fine but if you rely on old threads with bad links and outdated info for your information then I dont see it lasting in the long run. Anyway just my $.02 and now Ill go back to my searching and digging. Holla!

Yep, because I have read well over 500 threads on this board and 95% start with "search for your answer". Im a member of over 20 automotive boards and have never seen it this bad. I condone doing a search but even simple answers are often shot down and threads locked without a answer as simple as "the gap of the plugs needs to be X.XX"". Of course I made that up but Im sure you will get the idea. Now that being said, I have found an answer for almost any question I have had by using the search function but the problem is the threads are so old that the pics, links, etc are now bad links.

I would personally stay away from ebay motor builders. Im sure there are some decent ones on there but if your after a crate motor go for a GM crate motor. Also there is a thread in the misc section about someone putting a vintage air setup in their Z. Check it out for some good info but I have also heard about people using GM compressors and hooking it up to the stock a/c setup and having good results.

WOW, where do you shop? Heck man, a set of victor jr. heads for a smallblock are only a lil more than $1200 and those are some HUGE heads for the street. And most intakes youll find on the street on sbc's are only > $250. Im just tired of constantly hearing the "search" comment on this site. Id rather throw some good info at the kid and give him some info than to tell him to search for it like 98% of the threads on this site get. Lvcien, I would skip that shortblock for $1k and work on finding yourself a near stock 350 for now and then add mods like heads, intake and cam after its running. You can usually find a near stock good running 350 for less than $1000 and it may already have some things done to it.

Nope a 383 is a .030 over 350 block with a 3.75" (400 stroke) crank. A standard bore 350 block with a 3.75" crank is 377. Here is a calculator to see where Im getting all this from. 350 stock bore is 4" with a 3.48" stroke. 383 is a 4.030 bore with a 3.75" stroke. http://www.itpapulling.com/ci_calc.html

a 355 is a 350 that has been bored out .030

LMAO@this whole thread. You want a 8k rpm monster but are afraid of a single plane? Reality needs to set in here that you need to decide what you want. Do you want a cruiser or do you want a drag car? Do yourself a favor and build you a 350 or a 383 good to 5500 rpm with a dual plane intake, decent vortec heads, good exhaust etc and enjoy it on the street. Sounds like you want a top fuel motor that idles at 600 rpms, it simply isnt going to happen.