Lason

its OK but not great. I wouldnt be surprised if that motor overheat because of the overbore. Its .060 over so no more boring for that block and there is no telling how thin the cylinder walls are now. Some blocks will take that much overbore no problem some wont, its a complete toss up. I personally wont take a 350 block over .040 if I am planning on any kind of performance. For $400 are you getting heads or anything else? Seriously its not a horrible deal but I just dont like .060 over part.

those are really dark but it looks very blocky. I can appreciate the work that went into them but deffinetly not my thing, way too ricey. That said, you have some skills with metal!

Do a MAF conversion. The SD setup will probably run poorly with the SD system in place after you put a cam in it.

I hope you have better luck with those ebay headers than everyone I have heard from. They have all (except one) reported their headers have cracked after light use. The reason is because even though they are advertised as stainless, the flanges are not. Given stainless and mild steel have different expansion rates when heated up they will crack. Im contemplating a single or twin setup on my Z and the headers will be custom all mild steel coated headers.

LS1's out of '02 with low miles dont go for that much if you shop around. I have been looking on Ebay and also local sellers and I have seen 20-30k LS1/tranny combos going for $2500-3500. Of course some of the bigger salvage yards still want 4500-up and that is plain rediculous. A year or two ago sure but now the LS2's are starting to show up along with more LS6's. I would really like to get a LS2 myself but a LS1 with a cam and a few more mods will be plenty fun ESPECIALLY with an auto and a 3500 yank stall like I had in my old T/A.

I would just try using the stock wiring and ECU and tuning using LS1 Edit and a laptop to tune your fuel and spark maps.

A lot of aftermarket blocks come unmachined. I dont know about this one but some aluminum/steel sleeved blocks like this come with the sleeves sticking out a few thousands from the factory and require a machine shop to deck the block. I would also never buy a $4k block and assume everything is good to go. If I spent that much on a block it would be at the machine shop the next day getting blueprinted.

Two options. Either get the headers coated or run spark plug boot insulators or both.

2 points I really like about that block. The first, already pointed out, is the SBC motor mounts cast in. Something GM should had done with the LSX blocks from the factory knowing that they would become swap canadites and would have really helped selling crate motors even though they are sleep pretty good at night as it is. Second is the added head bolts, that was one of the LSX's weak links as the heads liked to lift when boost was present. I read about someones iron blocked LSX's that would lift the heads at the track and ballooned several radiators and they even ran blow off valves(yes you read that right) on the radiator hose to bleed off excess pressure when the heads did lift. That wasnt an issue with Gen 1 SBC's because of the 5 head bolts per cylinder vs the LSX's 4.

Im so jealous right now. That is a BEAUTIFUL job! I was and still am thinking about YZ rear flares for the same reason as you, to fit in some big ole drag radials when I go to the track. I wonder hwo the kit would look with the stock front end and YZ rear?

Yeah I thought about that when I started grinding but Im real anal about wiring and usually try hiding most of it. Im also going to repaint the engine bay and Im going for a smooth look so they had to go. Figured I would get rid of them now before they get in my way when the V8 comes in. I will say that I did think they were pretty cool. didnt seem to fatigue and break away like a regular piece of metal but in my situation they were in the wrong place and the wrong time

I went through my 240's engine bay with a angle grinder and went to town removing alot of the pieces of metal used to hold wiring, the bracket for the slave cylinder on the tranny since Ill be running an auto and few other things.

Yep hobarts are quality welders. Dont know what model your looking at but they are quality.

true dat, I hear exactly what your saying and what it all boils down to is "if they pay it then charge it" and with a market like Z cars he can deffenitly do it.

$250??

OHHHHHHH SNAP! Just when I go on rants to the mods about deleting and bitching about people searching a thread like this pops up. OK man, your questions are WAY to vauge and you really need to plan an afternoon to sit here and search!

pshhhhhhhhhh who needs grounds, they are just dead weight

Yeah Whiteboys Z wasnt running too shabby at the last cruise the other site I local DFWStangs had. I think he was in the neighborhood of 5's and ended up taking the trophy. There were a couple faster stangs out there but they redlighted. It was hillarious to see the board pissed off about some noob winning the trophy. Anyway nice *** car for sure, here is a pic of one of his Z's at the track......

I know I got a ticket for wearing headphones while riding my bike one day. I thought it was dumb and explained to the cop that I have some riding buddies that ride cross country with 2 way radios in their helmets and its legal. He said he didnt care and that I wouldnt be able to hear someone trying to honk at me with them on. Ended up giving the ticket to my lawyer and he got it thrown out of court.

Check out the IAC sensor. Mounted on the throttle body its cylinder shaped on the front side of the throttle body. Take it off and check it for carbon buildup. 5.0's are notorious for these plugging up and causing hunting for idle and dying at idle. If its too bad just replace it but I usually disassemble them and clean them real good with carb cleaner. Also when looking for vacuum leaks I like to use a spray bottle with soapy water and start spraying areas around the motor. If you do hit a vacuum leak with the soapy water the idle will clean up real quick for a second. I highly doubt its your TFI module because when these do go out they go out and the car wont start at all.

I doubt you will ever find anything in writing that says its illegal. Wording like "anything distracting to other drivers" is complete opinion and can be fought in court quite easily. Not saying you wont have cops try to give you tickets but they would never fly in court because arguments like listed above could easily be brought up.

header bolts are going to loosen period. I have had everything from flowtechs to Kooks custom headers and bolts loosen. I have found that the Stage 8 bolts with locking rings do great at controlling that BUT the lock rings are a PITA to work with in tight situations. As for fit well, that is just part of the gamble. If I have to dimple these to work then so be it. Im not out to make 1000hp or anything.