Lason

Yeah I tend to think like your buddy does but it seems the older I get the wiser I get. My cherry picker is used weekly it seems like to load stuff into my truck etc.

Nothing wrong with a rolled over LS1 car but the ones that have been hit int he front, make sure the body didnt go into the crank. I have heard on numerous occasions that if you so much as tap the crank pulley in a accident then your thrust bearing clearance is outta whack and it will need a rebuild. While everyone else is throwing prices out there I got my '99 LS1/4l60E for $2500 and then sold the tranny for $500. Had 70k on the odometer.

Without it the tranny wont be able to kickdown gears by itself but you dont NEED it. I guess it depends on what you plan on doing with the car. Personally if it is going to spend most of the time on the street I would like to have that kickdown.

i forgot 95% of the people with this kit still have IRS so yeah your right, this shouldnt be an issue with you guys

yeah Ill be making my own tranny x-member since I have raised the floors up about 3/4" and now have subframe connectors to attach it to. I tried to get the carb flange at 0 degrees but there is no way so now the motor/tranny will tild down about 4 degrees in the rear to clear this issue

Sounds like a good plan! Nothing wrong with a turbo SBC, thats the same plan that I was originally going for and even started building the motor till I ran across this good deal on a LS1. So now Im shooting for a turbo LS1! Good luck and dont fall for the "while Im here I might as well........" syndrome like I did!

Yeah the end of the powerglide is actually about even with the front of the original shifter hole, about 1 ft behind the e-brake. Im just worried the driveshaft with rub on the e-brake shaft, especially when the rear squats down under acceleration.

I wonder if there is a way to wire up a laptop into some amps and speakers and just use winamp as a stereo. Now THAT would be cool! No tuner but Im sure thats not hard to fix as well. Maybe build a nano size computer instead of a laptop. Ahhhh, the possibilities are endless!

Yep, autox=IRS, drag=straight axle Just my $.02

over $500? The filter alone is at least $80 and those fittings add up quick! Depending on the type of line, usually in the neighborhood of $75-125 for 20ft...........

That was exactly my point from the begining. Its much cheaper to do it once and have it bigger than you need than it is to run out of fuel later on and have to re-do everything.

Yeah I hear that. Right now Ill be running the sanderson LS1 shorty headers so I dont have to worry about low hanging collectors. But soon Ill be running a single downpipe (probably 4" diameter) down there but if I do it will probably be on the outside of the subframes so I can avoid the tranny crossmember and all that.

LOL, now that would be the best thing to do. That is what Im doing with mine as well. -10 lines to and from the cell and a aeromotive A1000 pump. Im still up in the air on what regulator Im going to run right now. Depends on if I go turbo or not with my LS1 build.

I guess you COULD do that but I wouldnt run it below 1/8 to 1/4 tank because the fuel could slosh to one side and run your pump dry. I would personally either take the old lines out of the tank and have 1/2" tubes put in with AN fittings welded on or weld a sump onto the bottom of the tank.

Sorry dude, I cant help you when the vets come in here bashing you for not searching. There have been like 5 threads on this in the past 2 weeks. Ill answer your question though. The JCI kit is pretty nice. Leaves a little room for improvment but all in all pretty good. The motor sits pretty far back there as it is but in order to get the motor back even further it would have to be dropped more to clear the tranny tunnel and that isnt possible considering the balancer is 1/4" from the rack as it is.

WOW! Now THAT is low. The roads around here can be a little treacherous at times so Im kinda afraid to go that low. It will have coil overs on all corners so Ill have a little adjustment when Im done if I think the car will handle it.

I have the whole back end cut out of my Z for a tub job with a 8.8" so the mustache bar is gone along with the rest of the IRS. I was just looking down the tunnel last night anoticed how high the powerglide is sitting. The car without a doubt will need a cowl hood. Here is a quick pic of the carb and a air cleaner I got laying around here sitting on there for you to see what I mean. Ill also throw a couple pics of the ass end to show ya the progress I have made. Here is a pic of the tailshaft of the powerglide so you guys can see what Im talking about. Claearance pics. BTW this is with the motor sitting at 3 degrees of rear rake. Here is a pic Ill throw in of the driverside floor I finished up last night. I raised it up 1" for exhaust clearance. When Im done Ill have a nice little area under the seats for the mufflers. Before and after undercoating. I dont know if Ill end up running carpet so the undercoating will keep the floors from rusting and help kill a little bit of the heat/noise.

DO your trannies ride up real high in the trans tunnel? I got the motor bolted back in and jacked up the tranny so the carb flange on the victor jr was level at 0 degrees and the tranny seems to be way up high in the tunnel. Almost to the point where the driveshaft would be scarey close to the emergency brake mechanism. Is this pretty normal? I then raked the motor back about 3 degrees and of course it looks better but I want the motor at 0 degrees!. BTW, I dont have a driveshaft yet so this is all just by using my eye.

We dont but in my case I will be surpassing the 500hp point sooner before later so Im planning ahead. Like I said, it only cost a lil more than running -8 lines so why not. I already have -10 wrenches, fittings and a few other things from past projects so its just easier in my case. You can probably get away with 3/8" line and never need to go any bigger but if you do then that is just double $$$ in the long run to re-do everything.

Thats good to hear. I got mine just about as low as I can with still being able to get my aluminum jack under the front air dam. About 7" all around and I have about 5" of oil pan clearance. Thanks Mike!

Well that mustang is long gone. Im just speaking from personal expirience. All we did is run -10 feed/return line using the same A1000 pump and reg and my lean spot up top went away. All using a wideband A/F on a dyno. Point being, why would you skimp on the size? Too big of a feed/return wont hurt you, only give you peace of mind that you wont be maxing it out.

I dont know where you get all that info from. I have had fuel issues with a '90 mustang running around 520hp on the bottle and had to upgrade to -10 feed/return to get it to keep up. Now that is the standard size I go with and will be whats on my LS1 Z. Some people run a smaller return but I have no idea why. I would rather have my whole system one size so I dont have to stock 2 sizes of fittings etc. And there is no such thing as too big of a return line.

Thats really cool! I never would have thought that mollases would be able to do that!

Yep, I have been into my LS1 swap since Feb this year. Motor and tranny are both done and Im about half way through the back half. I want to get this thing able to at least crank by the end of the year sitting on all of its tires again. I have to have it done by my b-day next year (Feb 23rd) or my step dad will buy the car back from me for $500 . Kind of a bet we made, 1 year to finish the car or he buys it back as it sits for $500.

Anyone else care to measure for me? Just trying to get a general idea of how high everyones rides sit.