Lason

Yeah like I said, its an iron block but unlike a aluminum block the 6.0l can be bored out so that is a bonus. I dont like thinking about only doing a hone job before throwing $700 pistons in a motor. I like fresh meat on those cylinder walls. BTW, here is the ad in case your interested. http://dfwls1.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=20380

No, 6.0's are LSX style motors found in new trucks and escalades.

Got on a local board Im on and found a guy selling a '99 LS1/4L60E with about 60k on it for $2100. Then I sold the tranny for $500 and a couple odds and ends off the motor I didnt need for another $100. I still have the complete EFI setup including computer and mass air meter I could sell but Ill hang onto them in case I decide to go EFI later on. i went to the local swap meet here in Arlington this last weekend and there was a guy there with a wrecked Z28 on a trailor asking $2500 for the whole thing. It MIGHT have been a LT1 but Im almost positive it was a LS1. It was wrecked THAT bad. The deals are out there, you just gotta be patient and find them. Another option is to find a 6.0L longblock. I saw one on another local board here going for $500. Iron block, aluminum heads. It would be PERFECT for a performance build considering you could bore it unlike aluminum LS1 blocks. Awsome heads on the 6.0's too, especially if your considering boost. I really wish I would have snagged it up but Im too busy dumping money on my chassis right now.

And your wanting to build a BBC? Seriously I can point you to a place that will sell you a Dart block'd 434 for $3500 new. I think I may have heard about them on here or turbomustangs but great deals for what you get. I have built a couple BBC's and they are cool but deffinetly not cheap to build. You could also do what Im doing and get you a $1500-2000 LS1, throw your tranny and a carb on it and go. Awsome power, saves a lot of weight and of course you get the "COOOOOOOOOL" factor from all your buddies

Build a 454 small block I almost went with a dart block'd 434 before I decided on a LS1. I kinda wish I had gone that route but no biggie.

Phantom, what I meant was milder applications where rubber mounts are wanted like daily driver applications. That is how my project started but now Im contemplating welding the mounts up so they are solid and if I would have decided to do that from the start then motor plates would have been a far better decision due to their cost, ease of installation (sorta) and ample header clearance. I have said more than once, the JCI mounts themselves are good. Could be a lot better IMO but the instructions suck when it comes to good pics of how it all is supposed to go together. If I were to redesign it I would have gone with two mounts like the passenger side and a relocation bracket for the alternator. As it sits I have to buy two sets of motor mounts if I wanna switch over to poly's. 1 set of LS1 and one set of older SBC unless I can find someone selling them individually.

That looks REALLY good. I like the look of those LS2 water pumps so much more than my LS1 . Ill prolly end up with a Meziere pump anyway though, lol. Good luck with it! Oh and I also really like that mount setup, you should consider making a couple extra to sell.

The JCI stuff is nice, dont get me wrong. For a mild LSX motor, maybe being a daily driver then I would reccomend the JCI stuf hands down. That is how my project started. Now Im more geared towards a track monster and I kinda wish i went with motor plates instead but I dont regret it one bit. The JCI stuff isnt really hard to install but like I said last night, the directions leave a lot to be desired. Especially during the step we have been talking about. It is a VERY tight fit in the Datsun mount (hence the 5lb sledge hammer) but that may be a good thing. Too loose of a fit and it would move around a bit so given my choices Ill take it the way it is.

No sweat. I was cussing JCI when I installed that mount because they dont make it clear at all how to mount that thing! I think they need to include pics in their manual showing that but what do I know right? Good luck with the rest of it!

I was told by all my buddies to go with a mild 350 in my Z, instead I went with a LS1/powerglide combo with a straight axle/4-link conversion so I guess Im on the flip side of your original scenario

LOL call me a post whore but I went out there and stared at my mounts trying to figure out what is so different and laughed because I feel like an idiot for not remembering. I was in your same shoes till I figured out the JCI mount slides INSIDE the original mount and then the JCI plate that goes in between the frame and k-member goes OVER the original mount so together they sandwich the original mount. Now go mount it and get your sledge out because you will need it to get the JCI mount to fit nice INSIDE the Datsun mount. Here are some bad pics to hopefully show you what I mean.

After looking at it again I would call JCI. Your right, yours is up against the TC mount and crooked as hell. That is really weird.

It looks correct in that second pic. Just get you a 5lb sledge and smack the piss out of it at on the TC rod side till you can get a bolt in the original motor mount hole. The holes on my original motor mount were oval shaped from front to back because I was going to use a JTR kit so that helped me a lot. I will agree that the driverside mount is not exaclty on par as far as measurments are concerned. Its a VERY tight fit to say the least. BTW, I dont think my JCI mount sat perfectly down on the original mount either. I just got it where I could get the bolt in and tourqed it down. And with the two bolts you are supposed to use on the TC mount, FORGET THAT! I was able to get one in and that is all that is holding that side. If I have issues later on then Ill either weld that side or run motor plates.

I talked to the guy at JCI when I went in to pick up my LS1 stuff about the tranny crossmember because I dont like the floor mount thing myself. He said they offer two of them. On is a JTR style mount but it comes with re-inforcing plates to go on the interior to keep the bolt from pulling out of the floor which is a VERY good idea IMO. The other they offer is for late 260/280Z's that attaches to the subframes. The late 260/280 subframe extends further back as it knife edges than the 240/early 260 so that is why they have two. Personally Im putting in frame connectors out of 2x3 tubing and will attach my home made x-member there.

and uses a ford distributor. But for $4xx I would just use the MSD box and stock coils. More stable and exact timing.

Ok JUST to get the stock EFI to "turbo" standards you would need bigger injectors ($3-500), 90mm t-body ($4-500), hi-flow fuel rails ($200), Bigger mass air if your gonna run one ($3-400), and a tuning proggie to tune ($5-900) amongst other things. And if you ever want to turn the boost up you will need even bigger fuel injectors, bigger t-body, etc etc etc. To get a LS1 to Carb "turbo" standards you need a blow through carb (free-$800 for a CSU blow through custom carb), intake ($279) and a boost refrenced regulator which both efi and carb will need. O yeah and carb bonnet to direct the boost to the carb ($159) To tune the carb all you have to have is a screw driver and a pocket full of jets, depending on how in depth of a tune you are doing. Most of the time a screwdriver is all you need. The timing is still controlled via a laptop so that no biggie. Electronics DO go bad. Every single sensor on that LS1 will need to be changed at one point or another, there is NO getting around that. Finding a problem on a EFI car can be a PITA comapred to a carb car. And finally carbs are just as reliable as EFI, and I dare anyone to argue that one with me. Dont get me wrong, there are fast cars with EFi and if I had a money tree I would be one of them but why? Whats the advantage? Tuning? A turbo car efi or carb will need constant tuning, but its a lot easier and cheaper with a carb. Not as precise but if it gets the job done then why not?

LOL, DAMN my junk looks dirty! This camera adds 10 lbs of dirt to every pic I swear!

When you say left Im assuming you mean the pass side? The driverside re-uses the stock mount. The only grinding I had to do was on the driverside to clear the sanderson shorty header. Mine just bolted right up though. Here is a pic I just took to make sure you got everything right. It took me a bit to figure it all out when I first bolted it up...... the pass side mount... the driverside mount... chassis mounts.....

Autometer has been really making me mad with their decision to not offer their new styles in 2 5/8" and 5" in dash I plan on carbon fiber autometers myself though. Best looking that are still offered in the bigger sizes.

LMAO!! At least you have a chance in hell, more than a lot of us.

Very cool! I cant wait till I get my LS1 240 started. Just got done ordering a victor jr intake and some other stuff. i decided Im going with a carb on mine, and possibly a blow through turbo setup shortly after i get her going. Now if I could only manage to finish the rear!

They dont stay 180 or 90. But for assembly purposes it help keep a seal. They will roatate while the motor is running.

Sorry man, I havent ever got that far into an LS1. I know of a shop over here that builds performance LS1's though. Ill ask them on another board I frequent and shoot ya an answer as soon as I hear from them.