Lason

You want to fit a large frame (Im assuming) turbo, air to air ic AND a water to air ic along with all supporting hardware like wastegates, BOV's and all that in a Z? Well my opinion is that you wont need both IC's, choose one or the other and go from there. Another potential problem is the radiator if you are going to mount your turbo in the nose. Most drag cars with that setup run a small radiatior angled but there is no room in a Z to do this with running a small radiator and having a overheating problem. I would (and will be) running a large frame turbo but between my motor and radiator so I can still run a full size radiator. The IC is still in debate. I want a very streetable car but I want a w2a IC because of the room I have under the hood and the fact that I can get the air charge at or below ambient temp. Anyway just some thoughts I have.

Yeah and the motor/tranny is aprox 1/4" to the pass side using the JCI mounts.

That is no lie. I could have dropped my LS1/'glid in and been done but "while I was at it" I decided to upgrade rear ends and I always go bullet proof if possible. Now Im in the middle of back halfing my Z

I have no problems being corrected but when I have solid data to prove what Im saying then I dont see how come you keep trying to correct me. Its a little belittling to tell ya the truth. Now, have you sent TCI that email yet? I would be very interested in reading their response to you.

Assuming you had all the parts from the jump and everything went smoothly an afternoon is all it would take but that never happens. So in reality I could see it done in a weekend. O yeah and of course stuff like wiring EFi and stuff may take longer.

Two things. First Im a drag racer and there is no such thing as "constant motion" in drag racing. So in my world it DOES take more power to turn the TH400 because of either constant acceleration or decelleration. Second you never rebutted my original statement of more clutch surface area on the TH400 than the TH350 causing more parasitic drag at constant speed, or otherwise. Yeah I have heard it and always gone by it but if everyone has said it for years there must be something to it right?

I couldnt tell you for sure but I would assume it has something to do with the smaller firctions and steels which is also why it will handle less power. Kind of like the 'glide I just built for my Z. I used 5 frictions in the high gear and 6 in the low/reverse gear. I COULD have put 8 thin frictions in the high gear but I didnt need to and it would have cause more resistance and in turn taken more power to turn the assembly.

Turbo 350 is the lighter duty of the two and takes a lot less power to turn. Has a cable for the detent cable where as the th400 uses a switch. The TH400 will take a lot more power but weighs more, takes more power to turn, etc. Basically if you run a built th350 and break it then maybe you need to think about a th400.

So you guys building another car for Pinks? It will have a V8 this time around right? Like Zfan said, a stock rebuilt 350 with may be a set of forged pistons and ARP rod bolts, vortec heads, victor jr intake and a 150-200 shot would have owned that monte assuming it had a decent tranny and rear that would have made 5 pass's back to back with solid traction. O yeah and maybe get a negotiator that doesnt look so intimidated, lol.

No, it wasnt wrecked and I can probably fix my problem by just loosening the pass mount and straightening the drivetrain and then tightening all back down but I thought the JC kit allowed the motor to go back and forth a lil to get the motor as far back as possible like the JTR kit. Otherwise why make the pass side slide like it does? I may call LC and see what the deal is but first Im going to go home and try to see if I can dig up my manual.

Well you know how the pass side bracket slides back and forth a little? Doesnt the driver side also need to do the same? I may be mixing up the JTR kit and JC kit. Reason I asked is because I mocked up my tranny yesterday to figure out how Im going to build the crossmember and it was pointing a little too much to the pass side, like the drivetrain isnt running parrallel to the body, and I started thinking about the motor mount adjustments.

I use metalsupermarkets.com there is a store about 10 minutes from here. ALOT cheaper than home depot/lowes

OK guys I have a quick question. I already dropped the motor in the car using Johns Car mounts but lost my damn manual and think I missed something along the way. Did I need to modify the stock driverside LS1 mount? I know the passenger side can slide back and forth a little but I cant remember what will let it slide on the drivers side. TIA

So did these guys have a choice on who they were running? They brought a turbo 6 cylinder to run against a stroker smallblock on the bottle. It wasnt a fair fight from the beginning. Kinda like bringing a knife to a gunfight. And I do agree the HybridZ negotiator kept his cool but he looked skurred of the other teams driver, lol. Shoulda thrown in a cheap SBC on some giggle gas and some slick and it might have gone differently. I woulda donated the JTR kit

I use 16 gauge on the floors. I believe stock is 18 gauge but I already had the sheet of 16 and it works fine.

braided lines arent for "looks" unless your talking about that stuff they sell at autoparts stores in the dress up section. Im building my car to drag race and NHRA says I cant have more that 12" of rubber fuel line on the whole car. So my options are a braided type hose or hard line. I cant run 100% hardline so I have no choice but to use braided. Also my 240Z had some black braided hose on it from the factory (Im guessing) on the heater hoses and a few others places and they proved to be pretty reliable.

Congrats! I can relate with ya, Im have a LSX sitting in my 240Z as we speak and will probably be scrapping the EFI for a carb, or at least run a edelbrock victor jr carb'd intake with a 90 degree elbow and 90mm tb. My car is more drag oriented as it has a powerglide with a 4k stall and will have a 4 link with 325/60/15 drag radial out back. Im working on the rear now, along with some rust repair though so that part can still change at any time. Good luck with it!!

I have heard from people who had braided line less than 6 months old that had that gas smell after storing their car in the garage overnight. So yes, it seems to be a pretty normal thing.