331CI 280z

Cotter pins are cheap. You can buy a kit of 200 or so for under $5. Just spend the $ and get the right part. Your safety depends on it.

I like the Vette. I'm not much of a stock type of person. That's why my car has a 240 front bumper and no rear bumper.

How much is a replacement cell for a Prius when it dies???

In the process of reworking my entire fuel system. Everything from the cell to the carb. I am keeping the existing custom made cell, replacing all of the lines with -8 braided hose, a Mallory Comp 140 pump and filter, -6 lines to the carb from the regulator, all Russell fittings. The carb is getting an overhaul with a Proform main body, Quick Fuel Technology throttle plate and Holley trick kit.

I carry a Sig .45 for work, but would definitely consider the Glock as a #2 piece

Pete, Did you get your T-5 back from G-Force yet? Just wondering how everything worked out. Ian

I got a deal at Cardio Express. $55 signup then $10.60 per month!

Could you post a pic of the throttle cable setup? I have a Lokar cable, and removed the throttle stop below the pedal, but still haven't been able to get full throttle. I am considering raising the pedal height,and/or cutting off the bracket for the throttle stop off of the floor pan to get more throw on the cable.

Cooler fuel is always better. I'm not sure if a non-liquid filled gauge would solve the problem. I mounted my gauge setup to the Mallory regulator, and it is mounted on the firewall. I realize that the closer you put the regulator to the carb the better, but I did not wish to run a fuel pressure gauge with an isolator inside the car. My first setup had a gauge mounted to the fuel line of the Holley 4150 and I received an erroneous reading like you have. It would be at 7 at idle when I first started the car, but would drop when the car was warm. It took me a while to figure out that the gauge setup was the problem.

None of the answers are your problem. Your problem is that you have a liquid filled gauge located very close to the intake. The heat from the engine causes an erroneous reading with that setup. If you try a remote mounted gauge, you will get the correct reading. Look in the Barry Grant catalog and it clearly states not to use a liquid filled gauge.

Thanks for the info. I'm not sure what I'm doing with them right now. I like them, but tires are limited due to the 14" size

Hi guys. These wheels were on my car when I got it. I cleaned them up a bit, but that's all. I want to know who the manufacturer of the wheels is. Any idea on the value of the set of 4? The back side of the wheels have 14x5.5 and U.S. Trans AM on them in what appears to be weld or the casting.

I say go with the MSD. At least you have tech support if there are problems. I have the full MSD setup- billet distributor, blaster 2 coil, 6al , and start retard controller. It's nice to have a setup that works together. Their wiring diagrams help as well. What kind of support will you have if you buy the generic box and it doesn't work?

I'm running a lokar cable, but am having a hard time getting it to pull the throttle plates wide open. I did a search but the answers were somewhat vague.

I'm running AC. Custom bracketry is required. It sits on the lower LH of the motor on mine, where a typical chevy power steering pump would be.

I say small block chevy and be done with it

I used an air hammer on mine with good results. As long as you plan ahead for new ones, it shouldn't be a problem

Actually Chris, the 85 stands for the percentage of ethanol. I believe that it is around 100 octane so

Maybe a little. Go buy the Welder's handbook at Border's or Barnes and Noble. It will give you some good starting points and tips

I believe that Courtesy Nissan is no longer selling the finned differential covers. I ordered and got mine from them several months ago, but it looks like they are discontinued on their website. I have 2 Nismo covers. One on the car, and one new in the box. I was going to keep the one in the box for another project, but if I get the right price for it, it's gone. In my opinion, the fab work necessary for the finned cover is much less intensive then the work involved in tapping the differential itself.

Talk about a power killer. That's horrible!!!

The finned cover will also dissapate heat, and is threaded for an oil cooler, so no fab work would be necessary.

I like the MSD, and have the billet distributoer and start/ retard controller as well. Crane is good, but all the big drag racers use MSD. usually 2 mags per Nitro motor

Looks good

I like the stage 8 myself