BRAAP

Keep us posted, pics if possible.. Thanks, Paul

Interesting build.. Hmm.. If you plan to run pump gas, then yes, 11:1 is too much compression for any boost. If you plan to run LOTS of boost, you’ll need to drop the comp ratio considerably. If you plan to run only a little boost, then only a modest drop in compression ratio will be needed. I have to ask. Why the Q-45 throttle valve? I’ve only seen one application using that TB where it visually “fit” the powerplant, 280Zforce's beautiful example. Here is some good reading on HUGE by LARGE throttle valves from the “functional” perspective. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119899

Looks like a simple basic DIY or simple aftermarket race carb, slide valve variety, kinda like an SU but the throttle cable lifts the slide, not engine vacuum. My guess is that throttle response is either ON or OFF, similar to mechanical injection. Definitely a race engine of some sort. Welded oil filler, oversize water pump pulley, probably a small diameter crank pulley. The simple engine mounts and the BASIC nature of the carbs, makes me think it proably was for a race boat. Pete, do you have any more info or pictures of this creature? Very interesting for sure.

As Ron mentioned, Lokar makes a really nice quality universal throttle cable. I use them on my V-8 Z’s and even my L-6 Z’s. This picture of my first V-8 Z just after initial fire up, with the Lokar cable looped at the firewall. Cable length was left long initially, then shortened afterward. The Lokar instructions cover how to easily shorten the cable to the desired length, and the clevis fits the stock Datsun gas pedal perfectly.

BUSTed.. uh... er..., boosted a bit. Probably real torquey, mostly up top, with a bit of low end as well. Looks to be mostly naturally aspirated, with a tad of unnatural aspiration thrown in for GOOD measure..

Ah, the common oily discharge from the exhaust. Not a good sign for sure. Sure, it works as good lube for “rodding” out the carbon from the tail pipe, and as you eluded to, it will cause the passengers seat to itch in the long term.

Every time I start day dreaming about the YZ body kit on a street car, (the lines are incredible, aggressive, and HOT), the head light issue keeps coming to mind. A head light that visually fits the lines and style of the YZ, not something that just illuminates the road. Ricks grafting of the OE head lights is a work of art and is a very well executed head light solution. Nice work Rick. Then it came to me, with a one piece front end like Ricks, would it be possible to use the Z-32 head lights, or the Z-31 semi pop ups? If not the exact set up, maybe a derivative that would fit the YZ lines?… Z-32; Z-31; Ricks;

You are quite welcome and welcome to HybridZ.

I thought it was a Variable Analog Geared Ignition Noise Attenuator? Guess I was wrong, oh well.

Okie Dokie. Here you go... Just as 9kredline said; Passenger compartment; drivers side kick panel, beside the clutch pedal. Under the hood; BIG black box, can’t miss it. The one next to the battery are the fusible links. ’93 owners Manual… Under hood… Kick panel… Hope that helps…

Ok, That engine you pictured is the VG30E. SOHC is just that, A single cam over A head. DOHC is just that, Dual cams over A head. You just happen to have 2 heads, but it is still a SOHC engine as all VG30E's are. The VG30DE is the DOHC variant, with a total of 4 camshafts. I think you get the idea. Read this.. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OHC

First off, welcome to HybridZ. Thanks for the heads up on those “projected” lights. Curious as to how they would look on/in an S-30/S-130?… They sorta look like something that Madonna wore in the ‘80’s…

Looks like the whole family is into “bolt-ons” Nice….

Bryan, WOW! Looks nice. I like the LONG runners. Should be a strong runner for sure with lots of torque... Just a quick question, I noticed that your injector bosses are centered to the port itself. I know you are already well aware that OE injector notches in the head are not centered to the port itself, but centered on the intake valve. As such, are you aiming the injectors on a slant horizontally and slotting/notching the injector notch in the cylinder head and the intake gasket? Using a custom gasket? C’mon, you can share a couple of your little custom ideas/secrets with us…. Having “splayed” injectors sure would add some WOW factor when viewed from above.

Uh, well… yeah, "Shhhhh…" it can be done. I was planning to include that in the CAM thread. I already have 95% of the piston notching info already written up for that thread, (If I ever finally buckle down to finish the cam thread...) I’ll PM you the piston notching portion within the next couple hours. BRAAAP...BRAAAAAAAAAAP.......BRAAAAaaaaaaa........

Cool... Thanks Woj..

You are very much welcome. YEAH BABY!! Love it! Do you mind if I use a variation of that line the next time someone asks “how hard is it to remove a dash speaker?”

Now which Datsun Z car is this going in again? You must have mistaken this for a Camaro Z forum. Either way, welcome aboard. As for engine builds… Please read #2 in this link. There are many ways to get to your desired power level with the SBC, the route you ultimately take to get to your 400 HP is really more a personal taste, as this topic can be hotly debated form several angles. This has been covered here in the past. Please #2 and, then pull up a chair, open a cold one, and start the clicking the search button. Lots of good 350 vs 383 info here. http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=65&a=2

First off, this post is NOT meant to discredit 1 fast Z in any manner. I hold Bryans work in high regard and would have no issues running one his cylinder heads or engines in my own personal Z car. At his young age, he has amassed a great deal of actual hands on experience building, machining and taking Datsun power plants to extremes that the rest of us only bench race about. Some feel he is abrasive, and yeah he can be sometimes, the point is, his work speaks for itself. He KNOWS what he is doing and talking about in regards to engine building, machining, and extracting power from the L-series. With that said and the fact that I’ve haven’t measured any OE flat top piston "pop up" at any less than .019”, it would seem that L-28’s in Arizona just aren’t as “pop-up” endowed as Oregon L-28’s. (Sorry, I couldn't resist that one). In regards to piston pop up, (negative deck height), there are many factors that can and will affect piston deck height. Nissan machining consistency throughout the years was quite good, though machining tolerances such as crank pin offset, crank main line to deck height tolerances, etc can all affect deck height. Align honing a block, resizing the connecting rod big ends, offset grinding the crankpins, staggering bearings for fine tuning the bearing clearances, etc will also alter the piston deck height to some degree. In all the flat top L-28 builds I have measured, I think .019” is the shortest I’ve measured though it may have been shorter, I just don’t recall. The norm I have seen seems to be between .020” and .025.” Pictured below is one such flat top L-28 currently in our shop that we degreed in the cam and now are machining valve relief’s in the piston tops. It is an F-54 block punched +1mm, L-28 rods, OE +1mm flat top pistons, Rusch Motorsports built MN-47 head with a Rebello .520” cam, triple Webers, FelPro head gasket. Rods have been resized with ARP bolts, Clevite bearings used throughout. Piston pop up measured “along” the wrist pin, on all 6 cylinders, at the front and rear of the piston, this engine measures a negative piston deck height of .0225”-.0230”. (Twenty two and a half thou to twenty three thou.) So with a .023” negative deck height, and a .045” compressed head gasket, piston to head deck clearance for this particular flat top L-28 and MN-47 combo is .022” I have ran this combo on more than a few engines and it will leave the imprint of the pistons oversize on the squish portion of the head, but there is NO evidence of actual contact. As Bryan eluded to, when you are building your engine, you either want squish, and all of it, or if you can’t acquire squish, you need more than .100” clearance between the top of the pistons and the chamber of the head. Between .050” and 100” is a nasty detonation zone. Between 050” and the .022” clearance that Bryan is talking about and the anti detonation tendencies of squish are realized and the benefits of added static compression can be realized. FWIW, I found and down loaded the “Lengine” calculator produced by the “Sydney Z car club” and found a discrepancy in the Felpro head gasket volume. It is listed as being only 5.7cc. (Maybe a different Felpro head gasket than we get over here?), The FelPro Print-O-seal head gasket, whether it was just recently torqued up and disassembled, or ran for several years and dissembled, I’ve measured them at 044”-.045” compressed thickness, fire ring ID is a perfectly round exact 3.5” or 88.9 mm which equates to a 7.0 cc volume.

Boy oh boy. You instantly made friends amongst the Admins (now how do we impart that bit of wisdom to the rest of the newguys?...) Welcome aboard..

If you are planning to run the OE EFI and want your engine to run smoothly under most to all conditions, do NOT switch out cams. If the cam you choose alters the VE/torque curve very much at all from the stock VE/Torque curve, you will NOT be able to alter/fool the ECU to “fully” compensate for the new fueling requirements, PERIOD. You will be making compromises in the tune at various points to clear up others. We’ve been playing with, altering, tuning, tweaking, fooling, jinxing, pushing, pulling, balancing, aligning, honing, porting, smashing, shooting, the OE Hitachi EFI for over 17 years now. Trust me on this. If you want an aftermarket cam, install aftermarket EFI, simple as that. This is a very recent thread covering this exact scenario.. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123950

Sorry to for being slightly off topic here, but do any of those L-series engine calculators take into account that the OE Flat tops pop up out of the cylinder bore .020”-.025”? I always just use my own spread sheet for compression ratio calculations, I have never used those L-series calculators, but have heard them mentioned quite a bit. I was just curious. Paul

First off welcome to HybridZ. So you don’t want an L-28, but what you proposed is essentially building one, well close any how. If you are planning to use the L-26/L-28 crank, over bore the L-24 block 1.5mm, why not just bore it another 1.5mm? Then it would exactly be an L-28. So why bother paying the money for new oversize pistons, machine work to over bore, when you can find a suitable L-28 engine, if it is in good condition, just kiss hone the cylinders, re ring, new bearings etc, and it will be FAR less expensive than this L-27. If money is an issue, don’t spend money on things you may not need. The machinist is going t to charge you to over bore the engine. Those pistons for the over bore cost money. If you want an L-24, leave it an L-24. The ONLY reason I would even consider your proposal is if you wanted to keep a numbers matching block in your car and you wanted more displacement, and you don’t mind throwing money at something that wont get any closer to your goal than what already exists for far less. If are dead set on staying L-24, then leave it an L-24, don’t build an L-27 or L-28 unless you are attached to that particular L-24 block for whatever reason. Mileage and A/C are your requirements. My suggestion is to go find yourself a running L-28 with the EFI and electronic ignition. Bolt that in your car. Install quality ignition components and fine tune the ignition advance. Then fine tune the EFI and 25-30 MPG and 170-190 crank HP is totally realistic. Even the L-24 with the SU carbs is capable of 28+ MPG if you keep your foot out it. L-28 testimony... My personal 280-Z, with a BONE stock L-28 short block, barely over 8;1 compression, (low octane friendly), was getting an honest mile post to mile post 28-30 MPG, (installed dual 2” exhaust vs the previous dual 1 ¾” and mileage dropped from a solid 30 to 28 on the freeway), a little head work, Cyclone header and dual exhaust, finely tuned stock EFI with the stock cam, lightened flywheel, recurved ignition advance, quality plug wires, plugs and coil, cap and rotor. That 2900 lb 280 (2900 lbs with half tank of gas and driver), ran 0-60 MPH in 5.7 seconds, and the 1/4 mile in 14.4 seconds @ 97 MPH.

Ah, air cooled bike engines.. you mean like this 48 cylinder bike?… I think I got these pics from Ron. If he sees them maybe he’ll chime in the details and specifics on this monster..

Team Nissan.. How did you know that I couldn’t resist this thread? I’m no expert, especially in this sort of a project. Entertaining for sure. Immediately, the Hartley came to mind… OOohhhh. I wonder if they could produce a crankcase as one V-16 instead of two separate engines? It would fit nicely under the hood of a Z . Now that twin engine car that Mardukes father drives is WAY FRIGGIN COOL! Maybe he’ll dig up some pics and share more with us? (hint hint..) Back in the ‘90’s there was a gentleman who was a very gifted welder and welded 2 SBC, blocks, cranks, heads etc together, but he took the time to do it in such a way that the block and heads looked as if they were cast as a V-16 SBC. I think HOTROD magazine did a write up on it at one time. Any how, here is that engine today. I guess he built two of them.. http://www.museumofamericanspeed.com/Collections/Engines/AllAlphaE002.shtml Here is a tractor puller with a pair of rotaries linked together. I can’t seem to find the picture of the coupling itself, (buried somewhere on my hard drive), but it essentially is a pair motorcycle sprockets, one on the back of one engine and the other sprocket on the front of the other engine, and a double row chain around them as the coupling. Looks simple and functional. Here is a video of two SBC’s in a Street Rod running..