BRAAP

WOW!!!! Concept and execution is incredible!!! Nice work. Thank you for sharing.

Jerry, I wanted to thank you publicly. My full version of ConZult is up and running on my laptop, Thank you very much. As a business owner myself, when it comes to dealing with businesses as a customer, I am always critical of how those other businesses handle customer service when it comes to issues or just simple questions. I firmly believe that customer service is KEY to satisfied customers in regards to speed/tuner shops, and in our business, we make every effort to keep our customers satisfied. Your customer service has been first rate. I had a couple questions right out of the gate and you were “Johnny-on-the-spot”, answered my questions with professionalism and made sure I had everything I needed to be up and running. You can be sure when someone asks bout the conZult and Nissan Data Scan that I will be directing them to Jerry at “blaZt”, (And for those that might think otherwise, NO, Jerry didn’t pay me or offer any special discounts for this plug. I was just that impressed). http://www.blazt.biz jbarvinek@rogers.com .

No performance gain in the earlier intakes over the later N/A intakes. The port runner ID is the same on all the N/A EFI intakes. The Turbo intake manifolds have an ever so “slightly” larger runner id, (at least the ones I have measured side by side to N/A manifolds though there are a few members on here that swear not all turbo intakes are the larger runner, which I can’t disprove), and it is still up for debate whether that slight increase in runner diameter is of a substantial enough increase to justify its less than aesthetic appearance. The only other real difference in OE EFI manifolds was plenum volume. The earlier intakes and Turbo intakes have a larger plenum than the later manifolds. It is generally accepted that there is no difference in power output between ANY of them. Hope that helps.

I'll throw this out here “just in case”. Are you plumbing the Fuel pressure regulators correctly? I.e. return comes out the “bottom” of the fuel pressure regulator, pressure “in” comes into the side of the regulator. Either this or as has been mentioned many times, heat causing an issue some how, some way, to one aspect of the fuel/electrical system…

As for the kinked lines, I should’ve been more clear, sorry about that. I meant the ENTIRE fuel line between the fuel tank and the fuel rail. All the hard metal tubing lines AND the flexible rubber and/or braided lines that run under the car, either in the trans tunnel or along the frame rail, up the firewall, behind the differential, over the half shafts, etc. Something else you might check is to run the fuel pumps, open at the outlet, (no hose, or at least a short piece of hose to direct fuel flow) into a bucket and verify that the pumps themselves are able to flow the appropriate volume of fuel. The pump you bought might have “free flow” volume rating. Verify that it is at least within 90% of the claimed rating. If the rating is given at specific pressure, then using one of your spare adjustable pressure regulators, do the same at the prescribed pressure. Fuel pressure is only part of the “adequate fuel supply” equation, without the volume, pressure means squat. This will at least help narrow down a faulty fuel pump or power issue. Maybe monitor voltage AND amperage AT the pump while performing the flow test, if you have an amp meter. Also, being as you are using MS, you might try data logging with whatever data logging software you prefer, (I liked the data-log-viewer myself), and log the battery voltage as this situation happens. That will help identify voltage/alternator issues. Let us know if you do find it….

Just a few things come to mind… 1) Is your fuel tank vented? If not, try just cracking the filler cap to allow it to vent and retest. 2) You didn’t mention the fuel filter. (I’m assuming that you already checked that). You might also check to see if the fuel pump/s have an inlet screen in them and if so, verify the inlet screen is clear of debris. 3) Check to see if any of your fuel lines between the pump and fuel gauge are kinked, crimped, etc and that they are the at least 5/16” tubing, (plenty big enough for a hot N/A L-6).

Piston to valve contact.. OUCH! I hate it when that happens. If you get the chance, I do recommend that you install the matching valve springs and that piston to valve contact issue “shouldn’t” happen on those accidental missed shifts.. I’m not saying that it wont happen, but the chances are much less as the correct valve springs will help keep the valve motion much closer to the cam lobe, especially for those unexpected missed shifts… Also, being as this is the sweetheart L-20A and with this cam and carb combo, that engine should easily be pulling through 7000 RPM. I’d gather that between 7250 and 7500 would be ideal shift points for maximum acceleration with your current setup, if the valve springs were matched to the cam that is. (ok, enough about the valve springs. ) If I remember correctly, the L-20A head has much smaller diameter ports therefore would require “extensive” port work, like way more port work than I’d ever want to perform on one head, (and that is if the port walls are thick enough to allow that much material removal). Depending on your specific plans for the L-28 build up, the N-42 head is a great HOT street head. We’ve built many N-42’s at various stages of mild to wild and are currently building 3 for customers in Europe, all three are running triples and moderate N/A race engines, and a 4th is a local customer with a one of a kind N-42 receiving more power enhancements. Keep us posted as you get it back up and running…

Without the OE TPS, at Wide Open Throttle, the engine would just run too lean. It will run and rev up, part throttle will act normal as the TPS doesn’t close the WOT switch till approx ¾ throttle application any how, but at WOT it will be so lean it will lean misfire, (pending the mixture was correct to begin with). Running it that lean for any extended periods is bad. End result is usually a burnt exhaust valve. The lean misfire is about the only drivability side affect you would notice with the TPS disconnected…

First off, Welcome to Hybrid Z. Nice looking Z you have there. Now when you installed the cam and lash pads, did you install the matching valve springs? If not, you are not realizing the full potential of that cam as the valves are floating below where that cam makes it power. If you are using the stock valve springs, as the engine revs, when it gets to say around 5500 RPM or so, you’ll notice the engine takes on a more aggressive harsh growling noise that gets louder the more it revs… that is valve float! That cam with the triples should be pulling hard up through 6500 RPM and the engine should rev to around 7000 RPM before it starts making that growl noise. 170-180 wheel HP is totally realistic for an L-28 with triple 40’s and a mild cam. A quality ignition system is a must though. As for the EFI, If you do go back to the OE EFI, you WILL need to put the stock cam back in as the OE EFI can not be tuned around aggressive cams. Even with mild cams, drivability in some area will be compromised if an aftermarket cam is used. If you use an aftermarket stand alone EFI, then you can use whatever cam you want as you can tune around it.

*edit* 81280zx beat me to it... Ditto everythign he said...* With all the possible points of oil leaks you mentioned, you really need to start hunt for leaking oil, from scratch. If you don’t start from scratch, you are just wasting your time on a wild goose, er, oil leak chase that you most likely wont find the “actual” leak location of. Trust me, been there done that MANY times… What I mean by starting form scratch is, using engine degreaser, completely clean the engine block, cylinder head, valve cover, front cover, crank damper, oil pan, and around the entire circumference of the tranny bell housing and remove ALL the grit and grime, wet oil etc. Depending on how grimy the engine is, this could easily take 4-8 cans of FOAMY gunk. (I prefer the FOAMY Gunk over the regular Gunk, if you have something you like better, then by al means use it), and a nice stiff bristle brush and running water. Once you get everything cleaned and all gasket areas such as the valve cover, front cover, head gasket, etc are all clean of any previous oil residue, then drive the car on a short jaunt, and when you get it back home, let it sit for an hour or so, then open the hood and give all those areas a good visual inspection. Start low, under the car, front and rear of oil pan, tranny bell housing, and when you find fresh wet oil, then follow that wet oil trail UP the engine to its highest point of wetness. That should be the location where the leak is coming from. If you see more than one trail of oil, track those as well. OH! Don’t forget to eh cover the distributor with plastic baggy and use rubber band to keep excess water spray from getting IN the dizzy. and after you thoroughly clean the engine, don’t forget to unplug the TPS connector and make sure there is NO water in the switch connector. If so, just blow it out till it is dry, then reconnect he TPS connector. Tools…

Set your initial timing with the vacuum advance unplugged, but don’t forget to plug it back in after your done setting the timing. Let us know how it goes…

Your bigger throttle valve shouldn’t be causing any issues to this degree in regards to mixture. In fact, the only issue the 60 mm throttle valve would induce as far as drivability is concerned, is that it is a little harder to modulate off idle engine response, i.e. it will be harder to take off from a stop due to the fact the bigger throttle valve is letting more air in the engine for a given throttle position compared to the OE throttle body. What Throttle Position Sensor are you using? You have to us the Datsun TPS from your old Throttle Valve as it is a switch, not a potentiometer like comes on the factory Nissan 60mm Throttle bodies, (even though the plug may be the same?) Make positively sure that the TPS on your car is a factory EFI 280Z/280ZX, TPS, not from another newer vehicle. Just a quick run down of how the factory ECU interprets that TPS… The ECU needs that WOT signal which fattens the mixture for WOT power. Also, the OE TPS has a closed throttle switch which tells the ECU when the throttle is closed and if the engine is above 3200 RPM with the throttle closed, (i.e. decelerating from high RPM), the ECU will turn OFF the injectors, and then turn them back on at 2800 RPM. What happens quite commonly is when people wash the engine of their factory EFI Z cars, water will get into that connector and this shorts the "closed throttle" circuit. No damage is done other than the engine has a very violent rev limiter that comes on at 3200 RPM and disengages at 2800 RPM and the viscous cycle repeats rapidly. If this happens, you just have to blow out the water and all is well again. You may also have a plugged fuel filter. If the engine will rev higher at part throttle than it does at full throttle, that is a classic tale tell that that the fuel filter or fuel pump inlet screen is clogging. Over time, the RPM that the engine cuts out at, will become lower and lower till this taken care of. Also, you might try bumping your initial ignition timing up to between 12 and 15 degrees. You’ll immediately notice nice bump in power every where in the rev range and mileage increase as well. Hope this helps, Paul

What EFI intake manifold are you using, OE N/A, OE Turbo, aftermarket?

I purchased the BlaZt NISSAN Data scan/ConZult from Jerry, a member here with a RB20 240 Z, and he is a dealer for BlaZt. I bought it for my Z-32. Jerry promptly replied to all of my questions in getting the full version of the Data scan up and running and, though I haven’t used the Data scan yet, it looks to be quite powerful useful for seeing where the engine is at in regards to its OE tune, which for some, will immediately be able to see where some advance tuning could unleash more performance. Right now I hope to have the full version of ConZult up and running today as I have some climate control diagnosing to do. A major thanks goes out to Jerry for his help. Anyone else using the Data Scan and ConZult on the Nissan vehicles?

As Dave mentioned, F-1 engine designers set the injectors at trumpet entrance…

Correction.. WOLF is also plug & play for many manufactures including the NISSAN RB engines. Wolf supports plug and play for the following Nissans as listed on their web site… Z-32 with VG30DE and VG30DETT S-13, S14, S14A, S15 with SR20DET and CA18DET R32-R33 GTST with RB25DET R-32, R33, R34 GTR with the RB26DETT And these other manufacturers.. BMW, Holden, Mitsubishi, NISSAN, Subaru, and Mazda coming soon.

WOW, this brings back memories… The Internet Z car Club used to be home at the time, late ‘90’s, but somehow some of us, Ross Corrigan, (aka Modern Motorsports), Pete Parraska, and a few others hooked up over here. Hydrid Z was fresh and lots of great new ideas were being presented and tried all the time. The forum was growing and quickly becoming “the” performance Z resource, no matter what internal combustion engine was under the hood… For the most part, it took on the flavor it still has today, purely a technical archive of what others have tried or want to try in regards to modifying their Z cars, with no excuses, no B.S. I took a long break from Hybrid, and then over the past few years (with my wife’s diligence in turning my custom head work and limited Z knowledge into an official business, instead of just a word of mouth Z shop,) I spent a few weeks getting back up to speed on how Hybrid has evolved and some of the stuff that you guys were doing is just pure AH MAH GAWD!!! Back in the day, our low 12 second street Z cars were FAST! of course Scottie GNZ was always one of the faster knowledgeable guys. Well those days are gone. We are now seeing low 11 second L-series powered Street Z cars, (working on that 10 second time slip), 9 second V-8 and 2JZ cars, etc.. Any how, Hybrid-Z is, and will always forever be, home. Paul (BRAAP) Ruschman Rusch Motorsports

I agree... Thank you Steve. Thank you very much for your contributions to the Hybrid Z community.

Bryan, As usual with everything you do, nice work. Out of curiosity, what is the ID of the runners on these LD intakes?

I concur with John K, AWESOME Race Z site for sure.. Thank you. Sorry for thread jacking, but on that wonderful page, (great concept with the sway bar through the frame etc), I found a link on that page with pics of Cary, (aka Tube80Z) and Morgan, in their monster flared F-prepared cars running around the Medford track.. … Too cool… http://zlalomz.googlepages.com/autoximsastyle

Not trying to say the AEM is not a powerful quality system. AEM is successfully being used by many tuner shops, but for the prices quoted and features, I can’t imagine that the AEM is any more flexible than the WOLF v500 especially for the price. I recently purchased the WOLF V500 for much less than $2100, and will be using the V-500’s boost control features for my MPFI supercharged DIS V-8 powered Z. Boost control in “one tenth” of a percent resolution in 125 RPM steps up to 16,000 RPM! Several boost trim controls based on several inputs such as water temp, air temp, TPS, or pretty much any other input you would like “trim” boost with… Also, WOLF can run staged/blended extra injectors etc, (i.e. the extra injectors can be Methanol and have them “blend” with boost etc…). The thread linked below covers Haltech, AEM, WOLF, and discuses some of the benefits of each. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117313 I took a picture of my V-500 on my lap top and highlighted some of its boost control features.

Is this the EFI harness or the car body harness you’re referring to? Does this yellow wire have a female bullet connector on the end? If so, that is the water temp wire for the gauge in the dash, not the EFI. Do either or both of those wires have numbers printed on them? If so, those numbers will printed at approx 6”-12 “ intervals down the length of the wire. Those numbers will correspond to the pin numbers in the wiring diagram. Not sure if any of that helps, but I gave it shot any how.. Good luck..

Hmm… Quite a few really cool parts listed so far. Here are a couple of my all time must haves… 1) 650 HP @ 10,700 RPM, 320 lbs torque @ 10,400 RPM, 180 degree V-8 crankshaft, YEE HAA… 2) And this track in my pasture..

Looks good Aaron. Nice work. Do you have a machine shop at your disposal?

Dave, Which E-mail address did you send to? I haven’t received any E-mails from you. Hybrid “PM” or braapZ350@hotmail.com *edit* Dave, did you use the “contact seller” button at the top of the ad? For some reason that “contact seller” button isn’t working. I’ll contact the admins to make them aware as that could easily cause some confusion and frustration.