BRAAP

An Ls-x in a 350-Z? HELLS YEAH!!!! I say go for it! Granted, depending on how anal you are with parts and details, up to 350 WHP, the VQ should be less expensive, but with the LS-x, if in the future lets say you add a cam, heads, maybe even unnatural aspiration of some sort, the LS-x, will deliver more HP per dollar, and the thought of a real world 500-700 “drivable” HP to the WHEELS in a 350-Z would be AWESOME!!!! As for the weight issue, The VQ is not a light engine and its CG is definitely higher than the LS-x. My guess would be around a 50 pound difference either way between the LS-x and VQ35DE, worst case. Of course, when we weighed the LS-1 against a traditional SBC, our scales were shown to be wholly inaccurate, so….

Yeup. “Carbonated”.. Aka if you make any mixture adjustments with a carbonated fuel system, you go to bed that night smelling like gasoline, vs Electronic Fuel Infection aka EFI, where after making a fuel mixture adjustment, you go to bed with carpal tunnel..

Hmmm... We need pictures of what you are describing to quickly resolve your issue. Via text, we could be here for days muddling through interpretations, descriptions, etc… If you can post pics, I’m sure we can quickly solve this issue.

I used MegaSquirt EFI which will also controls a variety of different ignition systems, one being the FORD EDIS Distributorless ignition that I used on that engine, from a 4.0L V-6 Ford Explorer. Most other stand alone EFI systems, aka WOLF 3d), also have ignition control and will allow the use of coil on plug ignitions like what is linked above. (Ron will be updating SOON about that 6 coil set up…. ) Here is the coil pack and Magnecor plug wires… Price for the ignition components from the U-pull-it yard totaled less then $75! A good friend walked out with the same goodies for only $40! (depends on the guy behind counter and his mood). That included the coil pack, Ign module, crank trigger and VR sensor. You will still need a unit to control that DIS ignition whether it be Mega Squirt EFI or MegaJolt Lite Jr, (MJLJr is geared more towards the carbonated crowd, but should also work the OE EFI…) Hope that helps..

Thank you for splitting those hairs and shaking the squirrels out of the tree. This is good meat… Thanks again for sharing your insight… Paul

DAT, The cam IS the issue, NOT the rockers or lash pads. That CAM will ONLY work with the HYDRAULIC lifters in the P-90a head. Changing the Rockers isn’t going to change or fix your issue. Also, those hydraulic lash adjusters will NOT work in a N-42 head unless you have a machine shop modify the head to accept those hydraulic adjusters, and in my opinion, that would be an exercise in futility. Here are your options as I see them. 1) If you want a turbo cam for your set up with the N-42 head, you need a mechanical Turbo cam whether it be stock or aftermarket. 2) Use your N-42 cam. It is not an ideal grind for a Turbo application with its tight lobe separation, but it will run and should run quietly if the valve train is set up and adjusted properly. (I stand corrected. If the "A" grind, it is actually more ideal than the Turbo cam)! 3) Put the P-90a head on your short block, not only will you then have that Turbo cam, but you will also lessen the likelihood of the dreaded L-6 knock and subsequent blown head gasket and/or broken pistons. Running boost with a N-42 head on an L-28 with pump gas is like having unprotected sex with hookers… , even if you are using ARP head studs, N-42 heads, boost and pump gas are a very unstable combination. If a customer brought this set to me in its current configuration, I would VERY strongly urge him to choose option #3.

Ryan, Sorry for going off topic here, but I am interested in a few parts from your Z-32, instrument cluster, cowl cover that goes over the Battery and a few other misc trinkets. If you still have the complete car and are parting it out, could you E-mail me at; braapZ350@hotmail.com Thanks, Paul Ruschman

Was the Turbo head that your cam and rockers came from a P-90A and did it have Hydraulic lash adjusters? You installed the cam and rockers into the Non Turbo head right? If so, you can NOT use the Hydraulic cam on a non hydraulic head. The open and closing ramps of the hydraulic cam are ground for the rocker to be in contact with cam lobe, i.e. zero lash. Also, do not try to replicate the “zero lash” yourself by adjusting the rockers to zero lash either.

Sorry, I don’t have any info on the Toga bearings, but I definitely would NOT use Federal Mogul engine bearings, not even in my Lawn Mower. As a professional engine builder/machinist, I am always carefully scrutinizing every part during a tear down and Federal Mogul bearings have more defects and do not hold up as well as some other manufacturers. I have read FM’s quality issues is in their manufacturing process. OE Nissan bearings are pretty good, (though if you do use NISSAN, be sure to verify that they are indeed NISSAN bearings, not just cheapos that the parts counter found at the local Thrifty Auto parts store. They have been known to do that…). We primarily use Michigan/Clevite 77 bearings in ALL of our engines, from bone stock rebuilds to the 1100+ HP Twin Turbo 540 BBC Endurance Jet boat engine and everything in between.

Ah.. Very nice... Clean. Transitions were blended smoothly, all edges and directional changes appear to have been radiused with as much radius as possible. Nice work. Thank you for sharing.

Hmmm.. Lets define what MSD is and is not a little more… Well MSD is NOT HEI, but MSD does sell ignition components for the GM HEI ignition systems. Yes, Davis Unified Ignition offers some high quality Dizzy ignition systems for the domestic crowd. If you are running a distributor in your strong running domestic V-8 or V-6 engine, the D.U.I. is a great option and should not be overlooked. Some of us would like to stretch the ignition envelope to a whole another level using stand alone all inclusive Engine Management Systems, (EMS for short), such as WOLF 3d, Mega Squirt, etc.. This allows us to get rid of the distributor all together and either use Wasted spark or Coil on Plug Sequential ignition systems. Timing is much more stable and there is no reduction is spark quality do to wearing rotor and dizzy, plug wires are kept short or even non existent in some applications. etc. etc. etc… I am pretty sure the jest of this thread is in regards to the quality of MSD ignition related electronics, whether those ignition components are used on a Datsun L-series, Honda half motors, Domestic V-8’s or anything else, including the GM HEI. It wasn’t geared just at the GM HEI.

Ah hemm... Well Twoeightnine did the ole, “jump in front of the search bullet!”, "save" for this guy... Whew, that was a close one too…

Game on......

I am 90% sure the ”heater valve” is cable actuated on all 280-Z cars. In the 260 and 280 Z with FACTORY A/C, (the blower fan will be a 4 speed fan instead of the 3 speed fan), only the doors for directing air flow to the various air outlets are vacuum actuated. The heater valve should have a cable connected from the control lever on the dash to the valve itself, no vacuum control. FWIW, I would stay away from vacuum actuated control valves, especially in our old Datsun cars. If you do use a vacuum operated heater control valve, be sure to route the heater water lines as they were in the vehicle that the valve was originally intended for. The vacuum actuated valves don’t really have all that much pull/push power, so water flow through the valve could overcome the strength of the vacuum control, there by holding the valve open or closed or opening/closing valve as the water flow increases/decreases due to the thermostat opening/closing, higher engine RPMs etc. I’ve seen on the Jeep Cherokee/Wranglers, the vacuum actuated heater valve having four ports to divert the flow of coolant in such a way that it never really allowed any back or forward pressure of coolant against the valve, i.e. the valve could easily open and close. Also, being as the cooling systems in our old Datsun aren’t “clean”, i.e. lots of little floating debris, that debris could easily prevent the vacuum controlled valve form opening or closing. . That’s my $.02 on vacuum operated heater control valves.

Have you looked at Black Dragon Auto, (formerly Victoria British)? They have a much larger selection of OE replacement parts and at great prices… Heater control valves… http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/0076.html http://www.blackdragonauto.com/index.htm I’m sure if you were real creative you could easily adapt a less expensive cable actuated water/heater valve… … So when you want to turn the temp down a little, you just get out at the next stop light, turn the valve a ¼ turn. If that is not enough, just give it another ¼ turn at the next stop light…

I once drove a red 308 around Canby, (a little town just south of Portland), a good 30-40 minute drive in and around town. The shifter throws were long. FWIW, the car was stock, power was on par with a stock L-28 powered 280 and the handling was on par with a stock early S-30. Lots of body lean, way soft suspension etc. What it does bring to the table is lots of “chicks dig it” factor and the whine of that single plane V-8 crank exhaust note.… a sport bike BRAAAAAAP… Ahhhhhhhhhhh… pure heaven… I have also LOVED those exposed Ferrari shift gates. Back in the early ’90’s I took the time to map out the shifter travel of the Datsun 5 speed in my '75 280 because I wanted a Ferrari like exposed shift gate. To just install a plate on the center console with slots for the shifter wont work because the shifter throws aren‘t long enough, especially the side to side motion as the shifter shaft overlaps itself at that height above the shifter pivot. You would have to build a box that stands up off the center console some distance for it to work and then you would have this tall butt ugly box protruding up from your center console. Now if you just custom built a taller center console, (sort of makes your Z interior into tight little cocoon), then it could be made to work visually as well.

When comparing the STOCK cams, you wont be able to FEEL any power difference between the 280, 260 or 240 cams. There will be WAY more differences either positive or negative in regards to power output with fuel and ignition tuning than there is between the 240, 260, and 280 OE cams. Really, don’t waste your time, energy, gaskets, money, etc on such a swap. The differences are way too subtle to justify the amount of work and money in just the gaskets alone. The energy and money needed would be better used elsewhere such as a lightened flywheel, ignition upgrades, free flowing exhaust etc. Also, the L-26 E-88 heads, in my not so humble opinion, are not even worth their weight in scrap aluminum, if it is to be used as a bolt on head. Now if the chambers are to be welded up and extensive valve unshrouding and port work is to be performed for an all out performance L-series, then the E-88 is an excellent core, but only in that application, again, that is just my option. If this engine with the flat top pistons is an L-28, do yourself a huge favor and find either a P-79 or P-90 head and use that. It will be pump gas friendly and those heads perform great as well.

Wait a tick. You said this is a “Ninety four” Max?!?! DOH!!! And all along I though it was an ‘84 max with MN-47 head..

First off, welcome the Hybrid Z forum Dilligas. If technical cutting edge performance info regarding the L-6 is what you are seeking, then you have come to the right place. Within the archives of this forum you will undoubtedly be able to find THE most comprehensive and detailed tech info regarding the L-6 period! No other forum or web site even comes close in that regard!!! Back to your question. This exact info has been covered in such detail that I personally can still smell the anti size from the spark plug threads… As for this being a FAQ, not this particle thread or post, but I do agree that all the information that is buried within the Hybrid L-6 archives covering the OE pistons and head combos in various degrees of build and differing fuels should be dug up, sifted, and compressed into a FAQ and/or sticky for the new guys who come on this board with questions such as this. I really don’t have the time to write yet another novel on L-6 heads and flat top piston compatibility with pump gas. SO in short, your only real pump gas option with the flat top pistons is the P-79 head and the P-79 will perform great on a mild to hot street N/A L-28. The P-90 will also work. If you are going to use any of the other heads, especially with stock camshaft, it WILL detonate, PERIOD! Here is some good reading. After you read these threads completely, then start a search using the sea5rch function in the upper blue band of your screen. Big and Nasty cylinder heads… http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104420 Heads… http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105653 Custom head work… http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108398

Yeeup. Exactly what John said...

The first thing you will need is the JTR V-8 conversion manual. The JTR manual will literally walk you through every thing you will need to convert your Z to a GM V-8, from a donor car, any aftermarket goodies you may need, etc. The JTR manual covers many different trannies from autos to 5 speed and 6 speeds. It covers exhaust and header options, cooling options, and even shows what wiring you need to keep and get rid of. It even shows you how to calibrate your tach for the V-8, installing the Datsun oil pressure sender and water temp sender, speedo cable for the GM tranny, all so you can retain the OE gauges. The engine mounts and tranny mounts are also drawn up to size so you can fab your own if you so choose. Here it is… http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html

…and I will be giving a write up on L-6 cam installations as a Hybrid sticky and in that write up will also be info regarding cam specs for performance applications as applied to N/A, Super charged and Nitrous L-series engines. It will be a couple months till I can get to writing that article as we are currently swamped in custom cylinder head work.

How much do you want for the cylinder head?

Ahhh... "The Torque will be with you young Jedi... "

http://www.ruschmotorsports.com We are having the web site professionally done and it is in the final stages of being completed, (sort of beta testing the links, shopping cart, etc..). Originally the site was supposed to be fully up around Jan, but more like April at this point.