BRAAP

Nice work Flatty! Here was my first L28, picture taken back in the mid '90's. Stock EFI system minus cold start injector and air flow regulator, harness re-routed along the firewall and under the fuel rail. Recent customer car had me install a cleaned up N-42 intake and clean up the rest of the EFI system. Stock EFI, cold start injector delete, fuel rail install, wire harness re-route retune. Runs as good as it looks; Another customer turned family friend, in this photo still has the stock EFI minus cold start. RTZ is responsible for the EFI on this one, engine and very custom internally and externally polished N-42 by your truly; (Car currently has scratch built intake manifold, WOLF EFI system and 6 ignition coils, is OMG stunning!)

If you are not locked into any specific way to attain more performance, going Turbo will yield far more performance for your dollar and retain much of if not all the pleasant drivability the car currently has. N/A you can still keep great drivability but you can only grow so far before the drivability starts to be compromised and before you hit that level, cost start sky rocketing. For quality head work, guys are sinking between $2200-$3500 into their cylinder head alone.

Sorry, but you are incorrectly assuming HBZ policies. The ability to use the HBZ classifieds is not a charge, it is a privilege allowed to those that are willing to step up and contirubte to the future of this forum. This topic is currently in discussion in this thread; http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/89308-for-sale-rule-change-as-of-22710/ Hope that helps, Paul

The rules posted at the top of the classifieds section explain what it takes in order to post parts for sale.

Tony, Triple reply? Time to clean the viruses from your computer and stop visiting those free porn sites.

Another Black BMW M3 LSx conversion on the East coast. “Demon Speed” on bimmerforums; Front straight, VIR On dyno; In car..

Yeup.

Most likely just the timing chain slapping back and forth. If it is the timing chain, nothing to worry about, totally normal.

You mentioned Twin Turbo, yet posted in the Z31 section? Is your ecu from a Z-31 or Z-32? If Z-32, it runs under both sequential and batch fire, depending on conditions. Interesting you lost signal from the ECU on one cylinder. Maybe a bad injector driver in the ECU? I know the injectors themselves for the N/A Z32 go bad, almost regularly!

Nice.

Jon Oil pan height differences come from block design differences. LSx blocks are skirted meaning the oil pan rail is below the crank centerline. Small Block Ford oil pan rail is, for sake of discussion, right at crank centerline, same with SBC and SB Mopar as well. so for a given distance from bottom of pan to crank centerline, LSx pans are going to be much shorter.

Cool Hybrid! Thank you for sharing...

Good thread with lots of detailed and highlighted pics/diagrams of the '78 EFI, including the umbilical, helping another with his '78 EFI. Start on this page linked below, post #54, scroll down and continue on through next few pages, should find what you need. I also attached a couple pics from that discussion. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/85452-i-got-a-fuel-injection-problem/page__st__40 '78 ONLY, umbilical and EFI relay. Hope this helps, Paul

It sorta shortens the throw due to its geometry. Shorter arm swinging same arc, now travels less distance. It makes a very noticeable difference. I personally prefer the feel of the shifter shortened by 1"-1 1/4", seems to be the sweet spot. RED being stock length, BLUE being shorter length. Note how it shortens the throw.

If you have the means/tools to remove the shift lever yourself, a hack saw, a drill and tap for 8mm x 1.25mm, and a 8mm stud, (L-6 exhaust stud is perfect), or really long 8mm bolt, some loctite or other bonding agent, shortening your own shifter is fairly easy. Determine how much shorter you want the shifter, (1" for this example). Remove shifter from car. Measure down from the bottom of the threads the amount you want shortened, (1" in this case). Cut the top of the shifter off at that point. Hack saw works fine, shifter material is quite soft. You will want your cut to be nice and straight. Drill and tap, down into the shifter, 8mm x 1.25mm. Using a either a 8mmx1.25mm stud, (L-series exhaust manifold studs work perfect), or a long 8mmx1.25mm bolt, (cut the head of the bolt off after you install it), install that into the shifter. Be sure to use some red Loctite, JB weld, epoxy or other suitable permanent adhesive/glue/bonding agent. Reinstall shift lever, shift knob, and wa-la, your very own shortened shifter. I have done more shortened shortened Datsun shift levers in this manner than I can recall, at least 50+ over the years. Hope that helps, Paul

What he said!

BAHAHAH, just so you know to post in classifieds you also must be a donating member. It's 40 posts. I also think the membership length is a certain time minimum. Nice looking car, bad looking wiring mess. The new "parts for sale" posting policy is you have to be a donating member, removes the temptation to cheat/spam ones way to being able to post parts for sale. Not too mention, the rules are in-place for a reason. Those caught trying to cheat the rules in order meet some minimum quota end up on Ban-Row! For the reasons they are attempting to circumvent policy is the very reason we have those policies and we don't want those lacking moral discretion selling parts on this forum! Staff on this forum take policy seriously as many other members can attest to.

Nice Jon.

Phone was lost stolen back in June. Phone was shut down after calls were started to be made. Pics being taken, even recently it sounds like. So, 9 months later, with conclusive evidence of the phones location and very detailed pics of the persons currently in possession, including Geographic coordinates to the home and locations the pics were taken... Why has not some form of authority been involved or taken ANY action whatsoever in this? Either there are some missing twisted pieces to this puzzle or authorities would've acted on this, especially since 90% of the investigating has been done by the perps already! Take a copy of the stolen/lost report (including copies of the phones statement showing the phone service stopped), print out the pics, GPS coordinates, photo-bucket URL's of these picts down the local authorities, and move forward with this!

Camber gain!

If you read this thread, you'll find that has already been covered in this thread, starting in post #44, even discussed 8 into 1 header. (I realize this thread is already long, we would prefer any info being contributed to be new/fresh, not reposts of info already covered). 180 degree headers by design and theory "should" deliver the same sound, for the most part they come up short. With 180 degree headers, the note is 50-75% as clean and crisp as a single plane crank V-8 with equal length headers is. Biggest reason is the unequal length of the primaries, and with engine bay space constraints of front engine car, getting a true equal length 180 degree header is going to be an exercise in engineering that coudl exceed that of a single plane crankshaft. Here are couple 180 degree header exhaust notes.. This 180 degree header is 90-95% there exhaust note wise. Could live with this for sure. In the end, this is the true desired result; Back on topic...

This plays out right...

Any apps like that for the iPhail?

Ok boys. Circumstances and timing as they are, I am putting my single plane crankshaft up for sale. I am NOT abandoning this project, just putting it on hold for a while. Could be 3-5 years before I pick it back up. Who knows, next iteration may based on the SBF, LSx, BMW M60, VH45DE, or the SBC again. Any how, for those that may be interested in the crankshaft, here is the ad; http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/89384-for-sale-very-custom-bryant-billet-single-plane-crankshaft-for-small-block-chevy/