BRAAP

That stamp is the common US spec "K" stamp. I highlighted the entire "K" in your pic and below that is a K cam I had in my stash of cams for reference. Might be reground "K" cam, quick measurement of the lift will at least tell you if it is a larger-than-stock regrind or not. As mentioned early, mocked up in long block with a valve and rocker, degree wheel, and dial indictor, you could plot the lobe profile...

If it were me, I'd start out by; 1) Reading the rules you clicked "Agree" to back on Dec 4th, (Posting in the classifieds is covered towards the bottom and a heads up, your posting structure violates #5) 2) Reading any one of the stickies at the top of all the classifieds sections titled, "Classifieds Rules - Read Before Posting."

WOW! That is stupid fast!

Is that the numbers matching V6 for that car? How much effort is involved to convert it to RWD? I have seen a couple of these converted to RWD and they make for sik mad drift units yo... Is that factory Nissan aftermarket EFI? Hybrid Turbo? Do you have an Exhaust driven Turbo to include with the sale? I have heard those electric/Hybrid Turbo's are not very efficient. Does it make that "pooosh" sound when you let off the gas? Dad told me that means it is a race engine with high compression pistons and that noise is the pistons releasing compression ratio so you can use regular unleaded. Mom says I can have a car when I move out. My 32nd birthday is coming up, Mom says I probably should have my own place by then. I could come over and drive your car then ok? I am a true car guy. Been drawing cars since I was 5, so I know a real car when I see it. Can I come see your car at your house?

Forgot to add, I do have one cool car guy neighbor that also likes the S-30 Z cars! RTz and his lovely wife live approx 75 yards away. I share my shop with him in exchange for the ability to use his uber sweet knee mill and metal lathe.

I have been married just over 21 years, have 3 daughters ages 17, 15, and 5, (ran out of brownies one night). 2 years ago, pseudo adopted another girl age 19. Oh, and my mother-inlaw resides in what used to be our detached double car garage now converted into a nice fully self contained one bedroom, one bath, large living/kitchen space! So if any of you have wondered why I am on here so often.... 6 women on my property, I'm the only guy! You do the math...

Last I checked it was in the $1700 range around Sept last year. Price may have changed quite bit since then.

:lmao: :lmao: Can I adopt you?

Yeah, $500 is VERY hard to beat if you already have the Nissan ECU and harness.

Yeup. I am pretty sure there are already a couple of smog legal LSx powered BMW E-36s cars on the road in Californ-eye-ae. HBZ Member mas280 in southern Cal is building one linked here; http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1214157 As is another southern Cali guy, very well known on this forum, building two versions of E-36 V-8 hybirds.

Bang for the buck in the standalone EMS market, the WOLF V-500 and ViPec are excellent feature packed systems that are relatively easy to install, easy to tune, have more than enough features and capabilities for the hard core of hardcore enthusiasts, especially with their options pertaining specifically to boost. WOLF V500; WOLF calls it "Direct-fit". Sequential fuel and sequential injection TONs of ability to support up to 45 PSI, built in turbo timer, blended injection capability, MAF or speed density, VVT control, and with the all the analog and digital outputs/inputs, you could set up and configure just about any other item to control as well, (one AU guy is controlling his Yota auto trans). Want to use it on another engine, either purchase that direct fit harness adaptor or the universal harness and wire it yourself. I have the V-500 and used the VG30DETT direct fit in my Z32, LOVED IT! Far cry faster, snappier, more responsive, seamless in transitions from putt putting in parking lots to WOT blasts through the gears vs the Nissan ECU! I sold the car, took all of 10 minutes to reinstall the stock ECU, kept the V-500, bought the universal harness to use in my current project, (LSx powered BMW M3). Here is the HBZ Wolf sub forum, you’ll find members using it on RB’s here; http://forums.hybridz.org/forumdisplay.php?f=131 Here are the 2 RB series direct fit kits, (prices listed are AU dollar, not US-D). Direct fit for the RB25; http://wolfems.cart.net.au/details/696060.html Direct fit for the RB26; http://wolfems.cart.net.au/details/696061.html ViPec; The ViPec offers a special RB specific ECU. And is definitely a system worth looking at. Features such as flat shift, drive by wire, etc… http://www.vi-pec.com/page_files/pluginecu.htm This HBZ subforum has a listing of the other EMS available as well as some ViPec info; http://forums.hybridz.org/forumdisplay.php?f=113

We want to welcome you to HybridZ, please keep in mind that this is a tightly ran ship. We expect members to take the rules they agree to, to the next step beyond just "keeping them in mind". Applying them. These two links should help explain our position more clearly; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=131518 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=139501 Hope this helps make the transition into HBZ population a smooth one.

One more thing, please be sure to read the rules before you click accept. We are sticklers about the rules here and we have a few rules such as sentence structure, (capitalization and punctuation is required), titling threads, etc that not common on most other forums.

Nice find. If the head is cracked, I know of a fix... Muhahahahahahaha...

Mustache bar is spring steel. Welding it is not recommended. Replace it.

Dan, I just now noticed your user-title... I like it.

AWESOME!

I keep a few pics handy for those "just in case" moments here on HBZ, in all the instances some of these fit, I refrain in an effort to be a kinder gentler authority... So I'll just share them here instead, I'm sure you all recall a few threads/posts these would apply. :lmao:

Nope, saw that one first hand, not photoshopped.

How hard was it hit in the back? If hit hard enough to affect the rear axle or tear the motor/trans mounts, the driveshaft could’ve bottomed out in the trans damaging the trans internally. Most likely the engine is still OK, so long as it was maintained throughout its life, i.e. oil changes with decent oil at reasonable intervals, quality fuel used, etc...

The ’94 that over-heated, depending no how severe, could require a cylinder head worst case. I have heard these heads are prone to cracking if over heated. If you are not opposed to small project, a V-8 conversion could remedy the power-train woes and ease long term future power train costs and issues, (small block and LSx V-8s are common in this body style from SBC, to SBF and LSx alike. Can be relatively inexpensive if you are resourceful, they plentiful and with more conversion kits becoming available... ) The ’98, a manual trans conversion may be in order unless you prefer an automatic. If you have to deal with OBD-II emissions compliance in your neck of the woods, power train swap may not be as simple, though could. Best to contact your local emissions testing facility regarding the vehicle and proposed power plants first. The E36, ('92-'99 3-series), are actually very VERY easy to work on and parts that are not related to the BMW power-train are affordable, even through BMW directly! (The power train seems to be the expensive part of the car to maintain, making domestic V-8 conversions much more common for obvious reasons). This series of BMW had a long successful production run with literally millions o the road, and was engineered and built from the standpoint of not only easing assembly line production, but also future maintenance! In my research and experience tinkering on these cars now, I feel the E36 and E30 today are what the S-30 was in the 80's and early '90'S! Of ALL the cars I have had the opportunity to put a wrench to, the E36 and E30 series BMW cars are as easy, and in some instances even easier to work on, (remove and replace parts), than an S30 Z car! Interior, suspension, body, etc! Electrically speaking, the E36 is complex in that it has tons of electrical information and systems, but each system itself is simple, i.e. just a lot of simple systems, (compared to the Z-32 Nissan which is complex system of complex electrical systems that are not only difficult to troubleshoot and diagnose, but difficult to access and maintain, Q-45 is the same! The BMW E-36 is simple in design, functionality and easy to access within the car and dash). The E30 chassis is less complex and just as easy to work on, yet less expensive regarding parts and initial investment. The 5 series, I am not as familiar with yet want to get closer acquainted with, i.e. an E39, (’95-’03) to receive an LSx conversion is probably in my future, after my E36 LSx conversion is up and running. The E-46 3 series, ('98-'06) under went a major electrical change in that it utilizes a "Canned-bus" electrical system. The other BMW cars did as well, though I do not know when that transformation took place in the 5 and 7 series. As I understand this modern electrical system, it is very complex, not just simple power and ground circuits that we are accustomed to, more like digital circuits controlling Digital modules for all the various electrical components of the car such as illumination, instrumentation, controls, windows, locks, seats, climate control, stereo, security, etc, and an engine management that is even more integrated into the chassis electrical. I'm withholding judgment towards this new electrical system for now. I have heard of horror stories that dealers are not able to trace down basic electrical gremlins in stereo and window actuation systems, also heard from the Hybrid side that engine conversions can be much more daunting electrically speaking if wanting to retain as much of the OE electrical, climate control, etc as possible. Not enough info from either side of the “canned-bus” pro-con camps to make a judgment of whether or not this “canned-bus” electrical system was beneficial or not from the standpoint of maintenance of an aged vehicle or lends itself to DIY customization, other than I am watching closely, looking for a glimmer of hope that these cars are friendly to the DIY crowd as they become accessible within mortal budgets.

:lmao: http://www.barryboys.co.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=32805 Check out unique Lambo door hinges.. Their motto is; "If you can't take a joke, don't drive one!" :lmao: :lmao:

I purchased a huge-by-large Turbo for a DIY gas Turbine project couple years back. After much contemplation I decided I only want build this thing to make noise, not doing anything productive like produce thrust so I decided I din't need one so large and will build the DIY Turbine from a much smaller Turbo, T4 max, so this big guy is for sale, (would let it go for $150 shipped in the lower 48). Came off a Caterpillar stationary power plant, housings are over 12" diameter, 4 3/8" inlet ID, 4" outlet ID, exhaust section alone is as wide as an entire Z-32 Turbo charger! Next to a stock 280-ZX-T Turbo; Z-32 Turbo sitting on the Exhaust outlet; On the extreme side, I think this is about as big as they come;

.

John summed up what I see pretty well, Whatever the previous shop did, they did NOT finish the job properly, that is without doubt! Is that a special crank, i.e. V07 stroker or? Looks like an L-6 crank that has been lightened with holes drilled into the counter weights and the counterweight cheeks roughly machined as well as the OD of the counterweights in an effort to reduce rotational mass. Turning down the OD of the counterweights could also be due to the use of a short con rod causing piston skirt-to-crank counterweight clearance issues. Being as the L-6 is neutrally balanced, it does not use bob weights. That makes lightening these cranks relatively straight forward. Just remove equal amounts off the opposite side as you lighten, then be sure to have it balanced. This particular crankshaft looks as though a novice or early amateur with access to a machine shop attempted the work. At that, even the novice/amateur engine builder knows better regarding deburring and would’ve most likely finished the job before handing it to the customer, (or the novice WAS the customer). Moving on. If this crank is intended to be used, have it magnafluxed first. If the crank mags good, then start deburring all the rough edges, (TONS of deburring work to be done based on those two pics alone). If the crank is just an L-28 crank, you might be money and time ahead to source a known good used crank and using that one as a mail box pole or end table lamp, etc. , (deburr it to make finger-friendly first). After the deburring, have the crank polished and balanced. Don’t bother deburring if you don’t plan on balancing it as the deburring will drastically affect that cranks balance! That’s my $.02 based on the two pics posted.