BRAAP

I think I may be lost and not understanding. This pic is of a VG33E crank top and a VG30E crank bottom, I understand the VG30DE crank you are trying to install has larger “diameter’s like the VG33E?.... Any how, Area 1 is the crank main bearing journal. Area 2 is the oil pump drive. Area 3 is the front main seal. Area 4 is the timing belt and dampener snout. Area 5 is the overall “length” of these areas. I understand the overall length, dimension #5 in the pic below is the same for both the VG33E crank and VG30DE, and according to 260DET, #2, is longer, (or is it #3 that is longer?) which if the cranks are the same overall length, then that makes #4 shorter, (or #3 could be shorter if #2 is the longer register) My initial thought would be to shorten the area that is longer making all the registers the same length, i.e. shorten the long one by “facing” the offending register on a lathe, #2 or #3, which ever it is. Now keep in mind that the length of the timing gear, (width for the belt to ride on), and damper hub may be different as well. Wish I had both cranks in hand along with VG33E block, the different oil pumps, timing gears and cranks dampeners… Courtesy of http://nissannut.com/maintenance/vg33e_upgrade/

Well howdy-do boys? Hoov sent me an invite, I finally made it over. Cool stuff going here boys. I too have a fascination with the single cam VG3xE series. Very compact, lightweight, decent power etc. (not as much of a fan of the DE variant). So you are trying get the VG30DE crank in the VG33E block. (Please excuse my newbness, haven't played with these much so I'm not overly familiar with their architecture). So the VG30DE crank is longer by 7mm. Where exactly did this crank gain the extra 7mm in length? Is it a wider front main bearing journal, wider oil pump drive, wider timing belt drive? From the pic below, where was the 7mm added, A, B, C, D, ?... First thing that came to my mind is why not just machine/shave/remove the offending 7mm? Seems like this single operation alone would solve all the alignment/shimming/spacing issues with in one operation. No shimming, no spacers, no sourcing different or alternative accy brackets, etc. If shaving the offending 7mm is possible, would that affect where the woodruff keys land for the timing sprocket and crank dampener vs the VG33E crank? If machining the crank is not an option, going with spacers for the cam gears and shims under the tensioner, as already mentioned, those spacers on the cams should not unduly load the cam bearing journals.

My bad. On the way over there now.

Someone didn't exercise HBZ Rule#2... Short answers to your questions; 1) Yes there are other aftermarket cams manufactures, Isky and Schneider offer new cams, Rebello offers excellent performance regrinds as do a few other regrinders. 2) No, an aftermarket cam will not play well with the stock Datsun EFI. Yes, they work excellent with aftermarket EFI or carbs. For more specifics, start here; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125970 Hope that helps, Paul

Oh yeah! Fixed your thread title.

As a volunteer staff member on one of the greatest high performance sports car forums around, I have some advice for the newbs; 1) Before you click "I Agree" to the rules, actually read them! 2) If you do click "Accept" without reading those rules and you get busted for violating the rules you agreed to, don't get pissy with the staff that called you to take ownership of your error! Taking responsibility for ones actions is a virtue that is becoming rare as the new generations come of age... 3) If you are going to ask a technical question and expect a professional technically accurate answer, then ask your question in a professional manner. A manner that shows the group you are about to ask that you do appreciate their advice and the time they are giving you to share that advice! Generally that advice cost these guys a great deal of time and money to learn, sometime years, least you could do when getting this info for free is show them due respect. Basically, if you want professional quality tech advice which this forum is known for, then ask in a professional manner. Capitalize, punctuate, and proof read your post before you submit it! It’s really not that difficult and reflects a character of integrity that is diligent and respectful, a character that others will want to freely share quality advice with. 4) In the quest for tech info, don’t be afraid to open to your eyes to the resources that are available to you. Search engine, Google, forum sub sections, Stickies in those sub sections, etc, are invaluable resources, if you are willing to apply some effort in looking on your own.

Cat is out of the bag, I am at liberty to release a little more info on this conversion that Mike Knell of JTR and myself have been collaborating on. As the project progresses, more items, (some of what is seen in this build) will be available through JTR directly, here is the link; http://www.jagsthatrun.com/BMW_Order.html We found a smaller diameter brake booster allowing adequate valve cover to booster clearance that is one of the major issues with these conversions. Here is one such Mercedes booster I mocked up with my M3 master cylinder and the JTR booster adapter;

You thinking of buying it or are you selling it? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=159705 Car looks fantastic in the pics. Couple of things in the description. 1) Rarity of the car. a) It is rare in that it is a one year car, but being the rarest is debatable and that claim has been known to start strong bickering from 240-Z camps. The Series-1 '70 and early 71 240-Z are fewer in number and far more desirable on all a levels making them arguably a rarer Z. b) Some view the 260-Z, (from a collectors point of view), with its odd mix match of parts used on and in the car during its one year of production, (including the unibody structure itself), as undesirable and somewhat of bastard/abomination. Through the '74 model year, the body and various components were a transition from the 240 to the 280. Some cars even ended up with combinations of these transition parts, i.e. small 240 style front bumper with the larger 280 style rear bumper on the same car! (Seen it in person on couple of 260-Z). c) From the perspective of using the car as a clean slate from which to build a custom sports car, some guys, including myself, actually prefer the '74 260 over most other years for various reasons, mostly for its date of birth just falling outside of most states transition into smog testing, and the later 260 variants received the heavier, stiffer 280 style frame rails, radiator core support, wider trans tunnel etc. Personally I fall into the customizing crowd, as such, I am fond of the car, regardless of its nuances. 2) The carbs are the earlier dome top style, i.e. not original 260 fare. From a sports car enthusiast/drivers perspective, definitely an upgrade, on all levels, over what came original on the 260-Z. These carbs would only be a deterrent if the perspective buyer was looking for an authentic, original 260-Z. All in all, the car appears to be in really nice condition. Frame rails are smooth and not beat up, body looks straight, etc.

Power Steering update. Now have the high pressure side of the power steering finished. Took the F-bod PS hose and M3 PS hose down to my favorite fluid line guys, (Oil Filter Service in Portland OR), showed them what I needed and let them build it the way they felt it should be built, and wa-la. F-bod hard line coming out of the P/S pump, Aeroquip hose in between with Aeroquip fittings beautifully soldered onto the GM and BMW hard lines, and the BMW Banjo fitting for the rack attachment. This new custom hose fits perfectly as it coils nicely around the alternator without touching anything. I do have an idea for another custom built high pressure and low pressure line, would end up nicer than this and probably not much more in cost. Gonna bounce the concept off my buddy, (a member whose name escapes me, rhymes with "fell from the dike"?!), we’ll see what he says… For now, here are the pics;

:lmao:

10x1.25 2 of the 4 bolts might a little longer than other 2 as I have seen with some of the OE EFI intakes, (bosses are little thicker for 2 of the bolts).

There is some debate on whether or not the big throats actually do increase the engine output, i.e. are they worth any time and expense to install, other than "WOW" factor when the hood is open. I pitch my tent in the camp that believes a larger then stock throttle body on the stock L-6 EFI intake manifolds offer no real performance gain over the stock TB, even on mildly modified L-28's! As for the TPS, yes there are POT type TPS that will work. The Weber is designed to accept the stock switch style TPS and guys have converted their stock TB’s over to Potentiometer style TPS to use with aftermarket EMS’s. Back to larger TB's and any real or perceived performance gains, these threads cover that topic; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=147745 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119894 The most influential restriction of the intake tract is the intake runner of the stock EFI manifold itself, after that has been addressed, the stock AFM is the next air flow restriction, then after that the TB could be considers a possible restriction after those other two issues have been dealt with. Here is a discussion on the different plenums and runners of the stock EFI intakes with measurements of the manifolds etc; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=899487#post899487

Last three posts in a row all contain the same pics of the same car! Not trying to be mean, but c'mon guys, that is down right annoying! When you click reply, pah-leeese edit out the pics, (captured within this tag set ) so the rest of us don't have to scroll down through multiple copies of the same pictures over and over to get the next post. Thank you, Paul

There is no right answer to this question. Being a street car and strip car, god only knows where the power band is and how broad it is, vehicle weight, then throw in how much importance fuel mileage is to the driver, drivability around town and on the freeway, (is the driver OK with the engine screaming 3500+ RPM at freeway speed and only 14 MPG?). Will the car run dedicated drag tires at the strip, if so, how tall, etc. Too many variables to determine ideal strip ratio, then throw in personal preferences for drivability and MPG tolerances and there is no realistic answer that someone other than the driver himself could deem "best with the least compromise". My suggestion is, once the car is built, drive it around with the diff it currently has for a few months. Get familiar with the car and its demeanor. Then run it at the strip. Depending on how well the car launches and the what RPM the engine is at in relation to its power band and what gear your in through the traps will help point you in a direction of a more desirable final drive ratio for running at the strip. Keeping in mind how that change may also affect the cars demeanor around town and on the freeway as well. This is a good example of why we have rule #4, which everyone read before they clicked the "I Agree” button, right?!

For all those that would like to contact me, (hoov), especially during the down time so we can talk tech Z stuff, I can be reached at; 1 (310) 495-5412 I am available today till approx midnight Pacific time if you want to chat.

No, not really. That is just a generic user profile staff uses willy-nilly.

Found and married my gal 21 years ago.

How many horned rimmed glasses wearing, floppy disk packing, no girlfriend geeks does it take to post 4 pages of info that matters not in helping each other get their '70's Japanse sport car off the jack stands so they might get a chance to drive around and actually "see" what a girl looks like in person?

Ahem... I heard that! :lmao:

10 years! Cool...

Awesome story of the BF 109 pilot. Would love to see some of those shots of the restoration. So you are down the Rogue Valley. Make it out to the Sports Park back in the '90's? Small world, you just brought back a whole bunch of memories, Steve Wolf, the GeeBee, Sampson…. While going through A&P school in Eugene late '80's early '90's, we performed our Return-To-Service training at Creswell under the instruction of Nels Noble. This was during the time Steve was finishing up Delmar Benjamins Gee Bee. When the classes would show up at the Creswell hangar, Curly haired Steve allowed us to tour his hangar on occasion… Steve hired a couple of guys from classes ahead of mine that worked full time on the GeeBee. I was fortunate enough to see it fly out of Creswell air port a few times. I still have that VHS video of the GeeBee’s maiden flight in my VHS stash upstairs. “Can we get some more gas!...” After graduating A&P school, I worked as an Aircraft engine machinist in Aurora at Engine Components Northwest in the mid ‘90’s. Took up an offer to help out on Bill Reesmans MIG 17, the Mig Meteor, before he went to Red Bull, (this was Bills second Mig 17 that he acquired just a year or so prior. The original MIG he flew suffered an in flight explosion/fire that burnt the tail section, issue with the fuel transfer line. That hulk used and may still reside in the museum at Eugene Air Port). Bill also had a YAK a personal business jet and a Piper Cherokee 6 that he flew on occasion. I was driving my L28 powered ’75 Z during this time, Bill would pull up in his ’85 Ferrari 308 when he came out to the hangar to help out. We got talking sports cars as I was admiring his 308, he tossed me the keys and said just don’t wad it up! I was in heaven. Drove the Ferrari 308 into Canby and back, put some 20+ miles on it. Immediately noticed the pedal box was cramped and offset to one side. The 308 was spunky, but no match for a well tuned N/A L-28 and the 308 was sprung/damped relatively soft as well. Didn’t matter, it is a Ferrari! Any how, Bill is a very nice gentleman. During breaks he would tell us stories of flying the Super Saber against the MIGs, and now was actually flying one! Here are few shots I took of the MIG during an annual while Bill was flying the Mig Meteor privately under his company banner "Mig Magic". These pics were taken during an annual we performed on the MIG 17. My apologies for the quality, they are pics of pics, (didn’t have a digital camera back then). Mig apart for inspection and maintenance; Yours truly working in the cockpit sporting an old then, '80s T-shirt... Bills YAK!