BRAAP

Which trans are you using, T56 or 700R4? X-members are built different depending on the trans. Here's one for sale, only $65; http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DAT200.html Which diff do you have, there are 3 different flanges available that fit Z car diffs. I was able to find one for sale again very reasonable, no more than $70 http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DAT_driveshaft_flange.html Hope that helps, Paul

Most of the European, Japanese, and domestic cars and trucks with Multi Port EFI from the '80's through the '90 and even into the 2000's also use this same style BOSCH connector and are interchangeable, (that style of EFI connector is probably the most widely used two pin electrical connector in the world). A revised version of that connector was used on late '80's through '90's GM products such as H body, X body cars like the Pontiac, Buick, Olds, Chevy FWD cars and use a quick release style clip. Especially for use in an injector test/cleaning rig, this quick release push style clip vs the clumsy pick-and-bust the connector style clip is much nicer, quicker, and easier to use. I use these on all my customers EFI Z cars as well as my injector cleaning/test rig. They are plentiful and cheap, used and new. If you hit the wrecking yard and get the GM ones used, they are usually still in pretty good shape as they seem to hold up much better than the Hitachi versions from the '70's as used on our Z cars and they are numbered 1-6, (not that it matter's the Datusn EFI is batch fire, they all open and close at the same time). Another Member of HBZ, Matt Cramer of DIY-Autotune sells these connectors new, with pigtail ready to use or just the pins and concetor ready for you to build your own pigtail. http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/fuel-injector-pigtails-bosch-ev1-p-48.html http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/fuel-injector-connector-bosch-ev1-p-111.html Hope that helps, Paul

Just ran across another E36 M3, (’97 sedan) receiving an LSx and T56, and this one is local to us! I’m sure at some point we’ll cross paths to swap LSx BMW tech. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1503369 He’s selling his running S52 engine, (240 HP 3.2L inline 6), sure would look good under the hood of an S30 or S130…

For those interested, here is a running S52 for sale, pulled from a ’97 M3 sedan that is receiving an LSx conversion located in Portland OR, (deja-vu). Yes local to us, no we do not know him nor have we met, yet, just found it for sale a few minutes ago. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1502748 Price is fair for a good S52.

For those interested, here is a running S52 for sale, pulled from a ’97 M3 sedan that is receiving an LSx conversion located in Portland OR, (deja-vu). Yes local to us, no we do not know him nor have we met, yet, just found it for sale a few minutes ago. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1502748 Price is fair for a good S52.

I am biased towards Nikon D-SLR, but honestly, in the end, you can't go wrong with either a Cannon or Nikon D-SLR. They are both extemely very capable cameras in the hands of a good photogrpaher and both will serve you well. Nice shots taken with the D60. If considering the D80/90 camera, it probably is not fair to use the D60 as an indicator of what the D80/90 would be like to live with. The D60 being the replacement for the D40 was an entry level D-SLR camera in many respects compared to D70/80/90 line, so much so that what little extra the D70/80 cost, you were going more bang for the buck going with the D70/80 camera vs the D40. If the D60 carries any of its predecessor menu system, user friendliness, (lack of), you'll surely appreciate the far better functionality, versatility, overall power, speed, menu intuitiveness and comfort of the D80/90 cameras over the D60. Having owned a D70s for a few year snow with just over 30,000 pics through it, and having played with D40, to me anyhow, the D40 was unimpressive especially for what it lacked in many areas vs the D70/80 that cost only a little bit more new. the D40 menu is definitely not as user friendly, limited autofocus lens selections, etc. Picture quality was still good, just muddling through the features etc is frustrating and cumbersome and lacking vs a few more dollars that does a lot more, easier and faster with the D70/80/90 cameras. In other comparisons at this level, Nikon D70/80/90 vs Cannon EOs 300/400/450/Rebel, the main difference people seem to notice are the menu user friendliness, some prefer the Nikon format, others prefer Cannons approach. Some prefer the metal Nikon bodies vs the Cannon plastic bodies, but I think that is subconscious feel vs functional bias. I also recall one of them having a louder shutter/mirror flip up than the other, though I forget which one was quieter. Outside of that, in the end you can't go wrong with either a Cannon or Nikon D-SLR. They are both extemely very capable cameras in the hands of a good photogrpaher and both will serve you well. Dpreview is wonderful resource for camera comparisons, tons of highly in-depth testing, color, clarity, features testing, etc, to level most of us will never get to. Here is page 25 of the Nikon D90 vs D80, vs Cannon EOS 450D, vs Pentax K20D http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikond90/page25.asp

Mountain roads, (Generally less traffic and the cliffs are a little more forgiving) With this small displacement short stroke V8, Single plane crankshaft or dual plane crankshaft.

You're not crazy, DO IT! If you haven't found it on the forum already, here's a '97 BMW M3 S52 engine and 5 speed being installed in a 260-Z; http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/79806-rt260-bmw-m-powered/ M50/52 series engines should fit just as easily/nicely.

Carb'd SBC. High compression low boost moderate displacement or low compression high boost small displacement?

About time for an update… I’m still alive, gaining a little weight, getting older, and still married. Oldest daughter graduated high school, she also got her drivers license and has commandeered my only mode of transportation. Summer weather has been real mild, actually sort of a weird summer weather wise. Our annual camp-in this year was fantastic, thank you to all that came out. The dusty hulk of steel that is close to being evicted, running or not, is still in the shop and on jack stands. Water temp sendors AND sensors, BMW EFI, BMW Gauge and LSx, measured, (Senders and sensors tested were BMW BOSCH connection/square 2 prong; Black top, Green Top, Brown/Tan top, 4 prong prong round top, early Datsun EFI and GM LSx. Of interesting note is that all the BMW 2 prong EFI and Datsun EFI sensors were within 2% of each tother from 60-20 degrees F). First the good news. The resistance values-vs-temp values for the instrument gauges on ALL E36 cars, '92-'99 are the same! We all have been speculating they were different, come to find out they aren’t. BMW originally utilized two separate sensors/senders, (one for the EFI, other for the gauge), on the ’92-’95 cars then in ‘96 combined them into one housing for the later cars, the 4 prong sensor/sender and retained the same exact values for both DME and gauge. Now the great news! What that means for anyone doing the 92-’99 E36, (318, 323, 325, 328, M3,) LSx conversion is the ’96+ 4 prong sensor/sender works with their gauge and threads directly into the LSx head, no drilling, tapping, bushings, adapters etc to use the earlier 2 prong sensor, unless you want to. :confused Just deduce which 2 prongs for the gauge, (easy to do with the Bentley manual and an OHM meter), and you’re there. As for the pig tail, many other BMW’s used this same connector, easy to find in wrecking yards on other cars. The just ho-hum news. The LSx PCM sensor has a slightly different curve/slope compared the BMW EFI temps sensor' date=' enough so that you wont want to use the BMW DME sensor for the LSx PCM, ([i']see chart below[/i]). One could possibly adjust the CLT values using one of the tuning suites, I am pretty sure it’s just easier to install the GM temps sensor in the other head and be done with it. For what it’s worth, ALL GM temp sensors coolant and air temp have the same resistance to temp values, across the board, Pontiac, Olds, Chevrolet, etc, applicable to all GM Multi Port EFI vehicles. LEGEND! X axis= Degrees Fahrenheit. Y axis = resistance in OHMS. BMW EFI I = OBD-I DME temp sensor. BMW EFI II = OBD-II DME temp sensor. BMW Gge I = OBD-I gauge temp sender. BMW Gge II = OBD-II gauge temp sender. LSx EFI = PCM temp sensor. There seems to be a down side to these BMW temp gauges. I spent a bit of time researching this and here is what I found. BMW incorporated some form of buffer within the instrument cluster itself that holds the temp needle straight up, middle of the gauge when the engine is between 140-230ish degrees F. If the coolant temp breaches 230-ish then the gauge will swing from the middle up to HOT, not an incremental climb as one would expect or hope for as the engine gets warmer. The sender itself is analog like any other sender for a temp gauge, this buffering is done in the instrument cluster. Some feel the Euro cluster has less of a buffer but I was not able to find any evidence to support or deny that claim. There is a bit of speculation as to why BMW did this, turning a perfectly useful analog gauge into useless cold hot dial, beneficial no one. (theories such a people are getting so stupid that when they wee gauge move from center they panic and take their car to the dealer so this prevents unnecessary warranty claims, etc). Regardless, I see no point in trying to figure out why BMW did this, it is what it is, any discussion should really be centered around a possible solution to obtain a true analog temp gauge. Some have talked about trying to remove the buffer in the instrument itself, others have successfully replaced the internal guts of the temp gauge with VDO guts, stock needle and now have a gauge that indicates temperature on an analog scale. If someone finds a way to eliminate the buffer itself or other way so to get around this, please share, for now, here is what I found; The issue, for those interested in reading; http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1208832 http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1480682 http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=324399 Fixes; http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1105631 http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=776813 I tried to verify this “buffer” thing in my car using a 0-10k potentiometer, (Variable resistor), no joy. I think I may to finish up more of the wiring before my instrument cluster will allow the temp gauge to function?! In other recent news, received a set of prototype headers to mock up in the car in hopes of finalizing placement of the engine mounts, headers need a bit of work still, we are still up in the air on actual mount design/placement. Though with these headers mocked up I did learn that my choice for location of the Mallory Fuel Pressure Regulator was a poor choice. Headers were within 1/8” to 1/4” of the FPR. Removed the FPR and installed the Corvette FPR/filter in place of the OE BMW filter and all is well now. Connected the battery, (it still has power, even after sitting for over a year!) pressurized the fuel system, fuel pressure is right at 59-60 PSI. Probably should consider ordering another pump to have on hand in case this one dies once I get it on the road. Car had 19x,xxx miles when I put up on jackstands over a year ago, no idea how many miles on this pump and probably shouldn’t trust it especially after sitting for so long and then ramping up the fuel pressure by 33%. Another note for those of you using the Vette FPR, be aware that if your PCM came from a vehicle that had a FPR that utilized vacuum reference such as the trucks, (not sure about F-bodies), your fuel map will need the appropriate compensation to adjust for not having the Manifold pressure reference. If your PCM came from a vehicle that didn’t have the vacuum reference FPR, no worries.

Ahhh... So the hood ornament on Mercs are really cross hairs for an elite street sniper. Love it. How about an HBZ Video? Welcome to HybredZ YO! This is a bit slow, but one of my favorites, BRAAP-TV; (I am not eligible for this give away, just sharing some examples.)

Exactly. It isn't ideal, but with only one O2 and dual exhaust, that is the compromise one makes. For the most part, if the engine is running properly, all cylinders running equally both banks should be running quite similarly so its not much of an issue. On the other end of the spectrum, even running two O2's, (one per bank) is still not quite optimum but at least the entire engine is being monitored. Ideally you would want an O2 for each exhaust primary tube AND an Exhaust Gas Temp probe for each exhaust primary tube as well. But back in todays world on a mortals budget with high performance street engines, one O2 in one bank does the job quite well.

Yes it does matter, the "H" pipe is not a good place for an O2. An X pipe would fine, but not and an "H" pipe. The O2 needs exhaust "flow" over it to read what the cylinders are doing combustion wise. The H pipe doesn't necessarily have flow through it, but exhaust will move back and forth as the pressures alternate between banks. As such, placing an O2 will be measuring exhaust gasses that end up in the H-pipe over time and move back forth, not reading current or recent conditions, i.e. severe lag.

If you are using the RTz coil bracket mount for the L6, the square truck coils are the only ones that fit! Externally the LSx coils in a few variations, sizes, shapes and mounting foot prints. If you are building your own mount, then use which ever ones you want. Rumor mill claims the round truck coils with the exposed finned aluminum heat sink is the hot OE coil, not sure if that rumor is true.

Beautiful son you have. It is amazing how a child coming into the family brings to light an entirely new perspective on life and humanity. Life has just began, not only for him, but for you and your wife as well. Be sure to recognize the many fine moments of life's miracles to come and when they happen, also be sure to pause and take joy in those moments. Congratulations to both you and your wife.

Happy Birthday Robert, and thank you or taking the time on your 21st to share this. 1100 CID, DOHC, 5.402 bore x 6.00" stroke, 60 degree Vee, flat crank, over 1000 ft/lbs from 1000 RPM... Friggin COOL! I'll take two, their small. http://www.fordgaaengine.com/

Gordon, I'll toss ya a bone while tossing this in the shed. Everything regarding V8 Z car conversions including using the stock Datsun instruments with the V8, mounts, suspension, exhaust, cooling, wiring, etc is covered in the JTR manual, including adjusting the factory tach! HybridZ rule #11 covers V8 Z car conversion and the JTR manual, please get the manual before asking any more V8 conversion related questions. The Datsun Rear end is weak, VERY weak. In stock form as used in the car pictured below, will just barely hold up to your everyday 750+ HP dual quad, supercharged Nitrous fed Small Block Chevy running 8 second 1/4 mile passes. Push it much harder than this such trying to flip the car with power and traction only, it might fail, i.e. its weak. Possibly fail with slightly less power, say just a pansy weak sauce 500+ HP supercharged dual Quad SBC minus the NAWZZZ if you are abusive on launches or gear changes. The R-180 will handle a bit less than that, like a sissy girl 400 HP SBC minus the blower and minus nawzzz... I think you get the picture, pun intended.. This pic is for real, no enhancements other than text added to it. Owners/drivers are brothers and members of this forum! JnJ Now get the manual and start reading.

Please do not cross post, one post in the appropriate forum is adequate. Thank you.

Pics?

Please be sure to read the forum rules. IM style text short cuts are not allowed and basic sentence structure such as capitalization and punctuation must be used. We don't expect college level grammar, but we do expect an effort towards grade school level sentence structure. Thank you.

The 4" still looks very nice, good work.

Correction factor, for like density alt etc? GPS uses the satellites to determine altitude, no barometric sensors so it indicates true altitude above sea level regardless of weather, pressures, etc, so long as it has multiple sats to get its data. Or did you mean an indication of approximation error due to weak or minimal GPS satellite coverage like a deep canyon? GPS works great for the power boats, flat relatively level surface, full access to the sky, any lag to them is inconsequential. Now start zig zagging around town, (especially down town where tall buildings are blocking and uncovering line of sight to the sats as you move), neighbor hoods or windy mountainous back-roads in canyons. My concern would be accuracy and lag, in those zig zag situations, as someone else mentioned, Sine Cosine Tangent, not only going up and down, but also around corners, etc. I wonder if like on skid pad if it would keep a consistent accurate speed? Better yet, a slalom. Would it record average speed across the mean path covered, (like a stop watch would record) due to margin of accuracy being approx 5-10 feet, i.e. the offset of the slalom course or would it truly read speed based on ground covered which will be higher, like a tire driven speedo?. If the accuracy is about the distance of the slalom offset, it could end up exaggerating the speed by estimating it as wider swing around the slalom... None of that really matter entirely on the road to try and stay within the law, but lag, zig zag accuracy etc could have an affect which will also affect the ODO reading, i.e. actual ground traveled wont be as accurate the tighter and twisty the route taken vs just driving in a straight line.

Ditto what Tim said. Sugar coat this best I can.... Who/whatever told you the L-series doesn't hold for the long haul, my suggestion is, never take advice from that source ever again. Clearly obvious that source has no clue.

This is AWESOME! Great work, thank you for sharing!